HomeMadeTurboz

So I was going through the maps I have at home vs the maps I have at work, decided I might as well post them both:

Starting with the 8 blade


7 Blade (sorry this one is kinda fucked up, has that gap, anyone with basic photo shop skills should be able to fix it, and I would be much obliged)


6 Blade

HomeMadeTurboz

Ok on to the HX-40 turbine.

Inducer - 63mm
Exducer - 76mm

12 Blade stock wheel


10 Blade quick spool wheel


Now from what I understand from holset the 12 blade has a greater flow efficiency of about 10-12%, but spool and transitional response is greatly improved with the 10 blade. Too the point that you can put the 10 blade in a bigger housing, match the flow of the 12 blade, but still pick up some spool and response.

I'm sorry but I have not yet been able to track down any applications that used the 10 blade stock.

2GeclipseRST

I should mention to those who aren't aware that this is going on a rotary. The exhaust pulses are far stronger than that of a piston engine....... Me running a t3 turbo from a volvo on this engine would make it slower boosted than n/a regardless of what psi the wastegate is set to...... A 57 trim t3/t4 would probably choke it off as well.

I haven't decided if i want to use high compression rotors or low compression tII s4 rotors or not yet. I've got to talk to some more people and get some more ideas. I do know this though, a gt35r was one of those turbos that came up alot when i asked for "FC3S turbo that's good for drifting and daily driving" on the forums, google, etc..... 60-1 with a .63a/r hotside came up as well. The stock turbo chokes off somewhere around 250hp and 14?psi i believe. Kain recommended a bnr stage 2 turbo which will make my power goal and have quick spool but i'm not paying 700+ for one and that's only if you have a stock second gen turbo laying around so chock another $50-100 up just to buy the "core"....... I just want something i can make 300 with, spool fast and not worry about going out of it's efficiency range. I'm not getting many hits on the rotary forums so i came here.

As long as i'm making near decent boost at around 4500rpms, i'm fine. I have an 8000rpm redline. It goes past that but that ------- buzzer is annoying......

2GeclipseRST

Oh ----. Nevermind. THIS! THIS IS WHAT I NEED!

caged

A rotary is a whole different kettle of fish. I would go the Series 5 turbo rotors, are you porting it? I would recommend an extend port as it helps alot with quicker spool and is still a good streetable port. A hx40 would do the job with at least a 14-16cm rear housing. What vehicle is this going in?

Tom-Guy

You realise there are guys running those $550 brand new with warranty Borg S400s straight out of the box on those, huge turbines and T6 flange and all?

2GeclipseRST

It is.

Stock ports (sleeves and rods removed from 5th and 6th ports by the advice of kain), stock hi-comp rotors, stock n/a intake manifold..... Still working on what i'm doing as far as getting all that ---- to work with a turbo without toasting my motor. I'm shooting for 250hp if i get impatient. Meaning i'll be using ALOT of stock tii parts (sans turbo, manifold and intercooler) and aux injection. 300 if i can wait and save up for stand alone and buy atleast 750cc secondaries and stock tii primaries with a conservative tune. I've got to talk to a few more people and put in another month or so of research before i have something set in stone. I do have a tuner picked out (thank god) so i've gotta touch base wth him on a regular basis so i dont do something stupid. Boost WILL be kept in check properly with a 50mm wastegate. I wouldn't creep with a 40mm but still. I want the extra insurance and refuse to skimp on my build.

So you think an hx40 would be a better bet than a 35 with a 10 blade wheel? Where do you think i'd be making full boost? My desired powerband is 4200rpm and up but if i can make decent boost at 3500 i'll be pretty happy.

Truthfully i was going to import a jdm tii to build up while keeping my current car n/a so i'd have a fresh motor to drop in to save on downtime but i've heard horror stories of blown rear rotors, *** turbos....all kinds of fucked up ----. How pissed would i be to pay $1200-1400 to have a swap dropped off at my house only to find out the rotors have no compression, the coolant seals are gone and the turbo is cracked all to hell on the inside. My plan then shifted to buying an s4 usdm tii as well but to do that i was going to have to pay for a built motor, pay to rebuild a blown motor and STILL have to buy all my turbo goodies or settle for stock. The six port na-t seems to fit my situation and goals better. The only downtime i'd have is test fitting stuff for fab work, installing the complete kit and then an couple hours of dyno time (depending on setup). I dont know why i stressed about it so much but now it's nbd to me.

My car is an fc3S and is being built as a daily driven drift car. I dont plan on regular street swangin, just heading out to local events to practice, meet people, hang out and learn ----, show off my mad tyte jdm parts.... I was never really into jdm parts on hondas. Go figure. I get an rx7 and i'm all over it. Re-amemiya, uras, bn sports, infini, pbm.....good googly moogly! I haven't started a build thread yet simply because i'm not doing anything worth posting right now. It's been fixing the previous owners' ---- ups. The good news is that the motor was rebuilt 13k (verified by a recipt i found crammed in the carpet next to the center console last month when swapping seats) ago by rotorsports racing in kanapolis, NC. My tuner Zac used to work for them and intense motorsports in charlotte. My engine purs like a kitten, doesn't burn any more oil than usual (will be disabling the mop and start premixing one of these days so i wont have to worry about oil burn off) and does not smoke other than a very small amount initial start up before it's warm but that's normal. They did a fantastic job. The kid who owned it before me paid $1200 for parts and labor on a stock rebuild.

Hope this clears things up for you a bit and is a teaser of things to come. Believe me when i say i'm taking this stage of my build SLOW. I dont want any mistakes or fuckups. I damn sure dont want my car to burn down to the ground either.


Joseph Davis: I'm not down for spending large coin all at once on one part but i am down for doing it right within purpose and means. Hopefully now you understand why i want to run "jdm tyte coilovers". I'm just slamming the car down, getting rid of body roll, *** squat, adding front camber, enjoying pillow ball mounts.....stuff like that but on the cheap. I'm telling you i'd love a set of bilstein or ohlins coilovers but they're out of my price range. It's either bomb *** coilovers now on a peice of ---- car or mediocre coilovers now and a decent all around car later. Back to what you were talking about in THIS thread:
They're doing ALOT of crazy ---- that i'm still trying to understand. I've never seen turbos so big until i jumped into the rotary world. Turbo rotaries are something serious. They cant take detonation worth a ---- but they can make big power reliably if built, tuned and maintained properly. We can get away with running very large turbos because rotary exhaust pulses are VERY strong and can spool just about anything.

Tom-Guy

I don't see how $400 Bilsteins plus $250 GC coilvers vs $500 rusted out crap that doesn't work in the first place is out of you price range? Spend $650 or throw away $500. You aren't logical.


Yeah, notice as soon as you actually said what the turbo was supposed to go on I spoonfed you exactly what you needed, again? Meh, unit I mentioned is a hair big for whoring around on the street, but you can get smaller T4 flanged turbines for $150 extra. So, whats that come to? $700 for a warrantied turbo good for 1000 whp? You can probably find a low mileage diesel unit on eBay if you have a tight budget, they have comparatively big hotsides that would suit a rotary, but a Borg S400 is the ticket if you have some skrill.

2GeclipseRST

GC coil sleeves are $430 shipped for my car......
Ebay mk1 pillowball camber uppers are $210 shipped

Using bilstein hd non adjustables, GC coilovers and mk1 (EBAY) pillowball camber plates the total comes out to 1110 shipped. Bilstein says NOT to use lowering kits with these shocks. Go figure.

Using the same coilover/camber combo with kyb AGX's= $1170 shipped

Using the same combo with koni yellows= $1340 shipped

THESE ARE EBAY PRICES! I'd hate to see what retail would come out to and using legit camber plates from super now, pbm, etc....

This isn't a honda. Not everyone has one so companies dont have units fly off the shelves to keep the cost down.




Yes, this is a street car. I dont need 1000hp. I'll be happy enough with a turbo that would support 450 b/c it wouldn't be breaking a sweat at 300 and would give me room if i ever get good enough to utilize a significant bump over 300hp. Yes, the motor i'm using can be capable of rediculous hp with the right combo of porting, tuning, and reliabilty mods (running s5 irons, rotors, housngs, and covers, doweling the "block", using high strength apex seals, v-band intercooler setup....etc. However, i'm running an n/a transmission. (kain offered me a stronger t2 transmission that i'll drive down and pick up when i have time), n/a driveshaft and n/a rear end. My power level and rear grip level are sorely limited by this. I can run a t2 transmission and modify the t2 driveshaft to use my rear end until it blows up but i have 2 na diff's, 1 lsd, 1 ready to be welded up as of 5 minutes ago, 2 na trannys and 2 na driveshafts. No point in swapping over. Not only that, i can buy n/a transmissions dirt cheap for $75 each. People are practically giving open diffs away and the driveshafts dont go for much either. As much of a beating my car is going to get, i'd rather stick with n/a parts on power levels that isn't going to destroy them in short order but if something does go wrong replacements are READILY available and DIRT CHEAP. There is a t2 sitting at a junkyard about 14 miles from my house i'd like to inquire about. If everything checks out and i get off my lazy *** and talk to the man, my goals might change but right now i'm keeping ---- on the real and working with what i have now the best it can possibly be done.

Aaroncake blew his ---- out on his project tina's drivetrain. Was making 400+hp using the n/a drivetrain. GT42r turbo, bridge ported, full stand alone. Transmission was well toasted as well as the rear end if memory serves. The n/a drivetrain can't take those power levels for long, especially if you run really grippy tires and launch hard often. I've been hoping he'd chime in since he's the 6 port turbo god. Guy is on another level. That's for sure.

Hope this sheds a little more light on my choices. I DO APPRECIATE your help and concern. I am on a fairly tight budget. Like i said, i want an all around good car, not just a baller part here and a baller part there on a piece of ----. I have ALOT of stuff i want to do with the car. Not just a turbo kit and decent suspension.

2GeclipseRST

. double post/quote