hence, why i noted that the information was read. i have yet to tear down a motor that's had a melted piston. i plan to keep it that way while tuning my z6 turbo setup

 

If your not breaking stuff, you arent going fast enough. Gotta crack some eggs to make an omelet.

 

CP Pistons, I mean Honda motors with forged pistons that have melted, usually start on the intake side because there's the least amount of material there around the intake reliefs. That area then heats up quicker (less material to x-fer heat), which ***** the ring area right there first, which lets oil past it. Then that leaked oil self-ignites, which puts the engine into a death spiral as it starts to reach the melting point. FYI the rich mixture cools the intake charge and the surface of the internal parts (preventing detonation). 1500F gasses will heat much farther than just the surface, which cause heat failure in parts.

BTW I don't know about Toyota engines, but .004" is more than enough for most engines near 100hp/L. The generic Wiseco answer to a Honda @20psi is a .0035" clearance. Usually .004" is for weekend cars, larger is for race-only.

 

Correct. Most Toyota engines (pre 1997) are iron blocks, honda has run aluminum alloy in the civics since 88'. Aluminum transfers heat faster. Open deck doesnt hurt either.

 

really .004 is to tight? its a daily driver. still cant get my pc to load my pics.

 

taken with a crappy camera phone!

 

 

What kinda of piston clearance would be good for this application? I'm building a 4agte and was just thinking about it.

 

ran a .004 on the clearance.

 

that's what I was planning on. But if yours turned out like that... I don't know.