Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
05-16-2007, 06:02 PM
#11
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 3,161
Re: Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
I didn't think you had an oil dump flange and was curious how you did it, but alas you have one. Well, as you've said the filter was there before and didn't cause it.....or could it have just been causing it and now it's finally bad? I really wish I could give you good advice here, but as you can see I'm pretty much in the dark. Bump for your answer.
JP
JP
05-16-2007, 10:08 PM
#13
1.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 326
Re: Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
Originally Posted by c0mpl3x
what weight are you running for oil?
I've been running 10W-30, straight dino as I'm in break in.. I can go to a thicker oil, synthetic - might impact my ring seating, but at this point I really need to the turbos to stay together....
I measured the oil pressure tonight at the turbo oil feed line, post oil filter. 20psi at idle, 60-70 psi at 3k RPM. No restriction in the line... That's more than enough pressure through a 4an line, perhaps I've got a crapola turbo... (reman, was told genuine garrett / dynamically balanced)
Lateral play is at .030" - basically at the limit of what it should be without turbine/housing contact...
Dunnoooo.. damn thing is an expensive pain in my *****.
05-17-2007, 03:22 AM
#14
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 723
Re: Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
Well since its an old turbo, and looks to be a T3, I'll take a guess here - its your turbine seal thats FUBAR. Its probably the piston seal, meaning it looks like a piston's ring you'd normally think of. Exhaust pressure keeps the oil in the chra, and if you have very high exhaust mani pressure, a restrictive exhaust, as well as a worn seal, there could be 1200F gasses passing that seal and burning the oil.
I'd suggest watercooling the turbo (it likely has the ability), and/or letting the turbo cool down every time before turning the motor off.
BTW what exactly is the issue? Just the bearing collecting a bit of coked oil, or smoke from oil leaking into the turbine housing?
I'd suggest watercooling the turbo (it likely has the ability), and/or letting the turbo cool down every time before turning the motor off.
BTW what exactly is the issue? Just the bearing collecting a bit of coked oil, or smoke from oil leaking into the turbine housing?
05-17-2007, 10:38 AM
#15
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 877
Re: Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
10-30 way too liquid at high temps for any turbo car.
0.022! is already too much shaft play IMO and it's the garrett spec.
0.03 is way too much shaft play, it'S actually enough play to cause wear of the turbing piston rings and make this turbo a leaker. The turbo itself it the cause of your problems i am 99% sure.
I say: 5-50 synted oil. 1/16" restrictor, 1/2" drain and a profesional / warrantied turbo rebuild maybe with watercooling upgrade and you're good to go.
0.022! is already too much shaft play IMO and it's the garrett spec.
0.03 is way too much shaft play, it'S actually enough play to cause wear of the turbing piston rings and make this turbo a leaker. The turbo itself it the cause of your problems i am 99% sure.
I say: 5-50 synted oil. 1/16" restrictor, 1/2" drain and a profesional / warrantied turbo rebuild maybe with watercooling upgrade and you're good to go.
05-17-2007, 12:50 PM
#16
1.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 326
Re: Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
Originally Posted by HiProfile
Well since its an old turbo, and looks to be a T3, I'll take a guess here - its your turbine seal thats FUBAR. Its probably the piston seal, meaning it looks like a piston's ring you'd normally think of. Exhaust pressure keeps the oil in the chra, and if you have very high exhaust mani pressure, a restrictive exhaust, as well as a worn seal, there could be 1200F gasses passing that seal and burning the oil.
I'd suggest watercooling the turbo (it likely has the ability), and/or letting the turbo cool down every time before turning the motor off.
BTW what exactly is the issue? Just the bearing collecting a bit of coked oil, or smoke from oil leaking into the turbine housing?
I'd suggest watercooling the turbo (it likely has the ability), and/or letting the turbo cool down every time before turning the motor off.
BTW what exactly is the issue? Just the bearing collecting a bit of coked oil, or smoke from oil leaking into the turbine housing?
The turbine seals should be fine. Less than 200 miles on the turbo. Boost pressure less than 10 lbs. It's already watercooled...
Appreciate the guess though.
Originally Posted by BLAAST
10-30 way too liquid at high temps for any turbo car.
0.022! is already too much shaft play IMO and it's the garrett spec.
0.03 is way too much shaft play, it'S actually enough play to cause wear of the turbing piston rings and make this turbo a leaker. The turbo itself it the cause of your problems i am 99% sure.
I say: 5-50 synted oil. 1/16" restrictor, 1/2" drain and a profesional / warrantied turbo rebuild maybe with watercooling upgrade and you're good to go.
0.022! is already too much shaft play IMO and it's the garrett spec.
0.03 is way too much shaft play, it'S actually enough play to cause wear of the turbing piston rings and make this turbo a leaker. The turbo itself it the cause of your problems i am 99% sure.
I say: 5-50 synted oil. 1/16" restrictor, 1/2" drain and a profesional / warrantied turbo rebuild maybe with watercooling upgrade and you're good to go.
As stated, I'm running a water turbo now.
I've switched to a 15w-50 synthectic Mobile1, even though this isn't the best idea for new motor break in. I did it a week ago and the turbo was already out of spec.
I don't know that I'm willing to put a restrictor on it as long as I'm destroying bearings due to oil flow.. If I start getting oil past seals, I'll start restricting it. There was no restriction in the factory turbo setup and the guys I know running journal bearing garretts aren't running them with this motor..
I'd buy "warrantied" turbos, but unless they're a no-fault warranty they're essentially worthless.. 98% of the turbo failures are going to be be attributed to some customer issue from what I've seen... Probably rightfully so - especially if shops are going to fault the type of oil (dino vs synthetic) or oil weight.
I'll post up some photos when I get it apart.
I added a BOV also to prevent compressor surge. 1G type valve.
05-22-2007, 09:32 PM
#18
1.5 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 877
Re: Burning rear turbo bearing (hot side)
Originally Posted by dcg9381
Blaast,
As stated, I'm running a water turbo now.
I've switched to a 15w-50 synthectic Mobile1, even though this isn't the best idea for new motor break in. I did it a week ago and the turbo was already out of spec.
I don't know that I'm willing to put a restrictor on it as long as I'm destroying bearings due to oil flow.. If I start getting oil past seals, I'll start restricting it. There was no restriction in the factory turbo setup and the guys I know running journal bearing garretts aren't running them with this motor..
I'd buy "warrantied" turbos, but unless they're a no-fault warranty they're essentially worthless.. 98% of the turbo failures are going to be be attributed to some customer issue from what I've seen... Probably rightfully so - especially if shops are going to fault the type of oil (dino vs synthetic) or oil weight.
I'll post up some photos when I get it apart.
I added a BOV also to prevent compressor surge. 1G type valve.
I personaly never void a turbo or rebuild warranty because of the type of oil, or lack of a restrictor.
Only obvious signs of abuse or neglect such as dented wheels, if you tampered the CHRA, or if it shows signs of oil starvation or gross contamination. warranty returns are rare. Case when we have to void it, even more.
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