Hey Guys,
I been keeping up with the reading on HMT, doin searches and all, and recently intalled a t25 on my 96 hatch w/ the stock d16y7. I find alll the infos on here useful & very helpful and now that i've finally got a downpipe fabricated i was wondering if you guys could help me out a bit. The problem was drivin back home from Midas (approx. 3miles). the car was boggin and nearly dyin everytime i stopped at a red light, decellerated under 15mph on turns, and starting from a red:green light. I'm savin up for a wideband, but i'm currently usin a Vortech 12:1 FMU to run it. I've got 6x24 FMIC w/ a stock mr2 BOV welded on the old short ram intake pipe. I've been fuelin premium for over 2months prior the installation and i've yet to get colder plugs..could it be the O2 sensors affecting it? one's plugged up on the hf manifold, and the downpipe doesn't have a O2 bung yet. I'll throw some pictures up once i get home. thanks!

http://www.fhby.org/pictures/turbod16y7.jpg

 

to do the job, i've got an air-bypass map sensor running from the intake to the throttle body. When i first started the car at Midas, prior to driving it home, that the bypass lines were out of the throttle and that idle was pretty shitty...but once i had it hooked up it wasn't coughin as much. but after that, like i mentioned earlier, at every stop light, deceleration, or start,....the car would bog in first..pick-up a little, bog in second....pick-up a little and so forth.

 

I am having that same problem on my car. I am running an integra with an FMU as well. And running check valves as well. Samething But not all the time maybe 3or4 times out of 6 rides.

 

i have an integra also, i also have that bogging feeling when i am not at partial or WOT. i think it is the fmu, i am almost positive. i cant wait until i can find someone around the area that actually can tune uberdata. but if you want my 2cents, i would get rid of the fmu. remember...an fmu only raises fuel pressure to compinsate for boost, so it will only increase the fuel pressure if it sees boost - now if you look at your boost gauge, you can have the pedal around 3/4 the way down with no boost, (throttle position b4 boost). that means that the FMU isnt seeing boost, yet you are getting forced induction even if u dont see it on the gauge, so your engine is bogging out because it is getting too much air and not enough fuel. and thats why i think it doesnt happen when you are at WOT. i think i am semi-right on this....anyone want to correct or add anything on

 

okay, i hope i found the problem. I was missing one air-bypass valve from my missing link (driving home from Midas)... could that have caused a vaccuum leak and led to bogging? I came home earlier today, added another bypass valve, took out the front bumper and drove the car around. For once, it ran just fine....i didn't really push it though...but it didn't seem to bog nor feel much pull either. so, could one air-bypass be the problem? thanks. and yeah, i'm still lookin into wideband soon.

 

don't run FMU's and check valves, thats the trick to making your car not run like ***.

with the ease and cost of uberdata/crome/turboedit these days, theres no reason for a honda to ever see an FMU ever again.

 

Not everone is computer smart or knows what uber is

 

so does anyone know what my cars problem could be??

also i dont have missing link....could this be why my car is sputtering

 

You have terrible fuel management.

The solution is to get your car tuned.