BMW 2002 Homemade Turbo Build Thread
07-03-2008, 12:54 AM
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 28
BMW 2002 Homemade Turbo Build Thread
I finally parked my car last night for a while, while I turbocharge it and convert it to megasquirt fuel injection. I figured that there are people out there who own these cars and want to gain more performance out of them, but aren't exactly sure where to start - so that's why I'm making this thread, it's from start to finish, a complete build thread that covers the removal of every nut/bolt, the splicing of every wire, etc - the only thing I will not cover is intercooler mounting in here, since I did that without taking pictures and it will vary greatly from car to car, but standard turbocharger placement and FI conversion should take care almost all of the guesswork out of this project.
This endeavor is being undertaken upon by my 1976 2002. It has a rebuilt engine with 20K on it, it could definitely use a lot more power, so FI (both fuel injection and forced induction haha) are going to be installed on this car.
As it stands, the car has a 32/36 carb, upgraded ignition system, a few other tidbits among the engine bay, but it should be almost identical to most other 2002's out there.
Here's a rough sketch of a parts list, including what I have so far and what I'm still waiting on or haven't ordered.
The plan:
20PSI on this car running Megasquirt-II fuel/spark management with american car parts thrown in. Will be hooked up to a laptop and monitored via MS interface, which will give readouts to all major components of this system.
Current compressor map showing engine specs and variables:
Note, I have not decided yet on a BOV/boost controller, those are not in the parts list yet.
So let's get started, this will be updated as I work on my car on a daily basis, sometimes less frequently but we'll see how everything goes.
First things first, disconnect the throttle linkage bracket from the firewall. This is held in by two 12mm bolts. Slide the bracket upwards over the shaft that connects to the carburetor, this will seperate the carburetor from the plate.
Remove the carburetor top plate as it makes it easier to remove work with, it's held on by four 10mm bolts.
Use a flat head screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the fuel lines on the pump, and the carburetor. Remove the lines, leave the inlet line (with filter) in the car, as well as the return line coming off the caburetor.
Disconnect the brake booster line from the valve cover. Mine was pretty gunked up on the inside leading me to believe the motor was sludging, but when I pulled the cover off it was a different story.
Remove the two 12mm nuts on the fuel pump base.
A block-off plate will need to be fabricated/installed here, simple task - requires a bandsaw/cutter & drill.
Remove the 4 12mm nuts on the base of the carburetor (this is for a Weber 32/36). The carburetor will slide over the studs revealing the manifold & carb gasket/spacer. The fluid between the runners on cylinders 3 and 4 is just fuel that spilled out of the pump.
The inside of my manifold still looks pretty clean - it has to be scrapped however for an M10 318i intake manifold.
Carburetor is in great shape still minus the gunk, I'll clean it off and sell it since it was rebuilt ~500 miles ago.
I started removing the top nuts on the manifold, they were 12mm - but I gave up when I realized that the bottom ones are damn near impossible to remove without getting the head off, so I'll just take the manifold off with the head. Meanwhile, remove the eight 10mm nuts that hold the valve cover on.
Break time. Greg's E30 is prowling in the back.
With the valve cover off, you can gain acess to the head bolts. They are 19mm bolts and there are 8 of them. Take them off in sequence, start with the corners and go towards the inside, gradually loosening up each bolt 1/4th to 1/2 turn at a time until they're loose and can be removed by hand.
It may be hard to break them at first, you can use 2 wrenches together to substitute as a breaker bar if you're too lazy to walk to the table and grab one.
My valve cover still looks pretty good, there's no sludge at all.
It helps to organize all your parts in bags.
Remove the coolant lines, remove any and all coolant lines that go to/from the head. The line from the temp sensor housing to the manifold can remain as it will come off with the head and can be disconnected at a later time.
Remove the bracket that holds the coil in place, it is held on by one 10mm bolt. Unplug the coil and remove it.
Remove the three 13mm (IIRC) bolts on the side of the distributor, towards the firewall. The bottom one is the hardest to get to. Remove the distributor cap if you need room for your hands. Unplug all plug wires and remove them from the vehicle. This exposes your distributor gear.
With the head bolts removed, the head is almost ready to be removed.
I'm stopping here, will continue tomorrow.
This endeavor is being undertaken upon by my 1976 2002. It has a rebuilt engine with 20K on it, it could definitely use a lot more power, so FI (both fuel injection and forced induction haha) are going to be installed on this car.
As it stands, the car has a 32/36 carb, upgraded ignition system, a few other tidbits among the engine bay, but it should be almost identical to most other 2002's out there.
Here's a rough sketch of a parts list, including what I have so far and what I'm still waiting on or haven't ordered.
The plan:
20PSI on this car running Megasquirt-II fuel/spark management with american car parts thrown in. Will be hooked up to a laptop and monitored via MS interface, which will give readouts to all major components of this system.
Current compressor map showing engine specs and variables:
Note, I have not decided yet on a BOV/boost controller, those are not in the parts list yet.
So let's get started, this will be updated as I work on my car on a daily basis, sometimes less frequently but we'll see how everything goes.
First things first, disconnect the throttle linkage bracket from the firewall. This is held in by two 12mm bolts. Slide the bracket upwards over the shaft that connects to the carburetor, this will seperate the carburetor from the plate.
Remove the carburetor top plate as it makes it easier to remove work with, it's held on by four 10mm bolts.
Use a flat head screwdriver to loosen the clamps on the fuel lines on the pump, and the carburetor. Remove the lines, leave the inlet line (with filter) in the car, as well as the return line coming off the caburetor.
Disconnect the brake booster line from the valve cover. Mine was pretty gunked up on the inside leading me to believe the motor was sludging, but when I pulled the cover off it was a different story.
Remove the two 12mm nuts on the fuel pump base.
A block-off plate will need to be fabricated/installed here, simple task - requires a bandsaw/cutter & drill.
Remove the 4 12mm nuts on the base of the carburetor (this is for a Weber 32/36). The carburetor will slide over the studs revealing the manifold & carb gasket/spacer. The fluid between the runners on cylinders 3 and 4 is just fuel that spilled out of the pump.
The inside of my manifold still looks pretty clean - it has to be scrapped however for an M10 318i intake manifold.
Carburetor is in great shape still minus the gunk, I'll clean it off and sell it since it was rebuilt ~500 miles ago.
I started removing the top nuts on the manifold, they were 12mm - but I gave up when I realized that the bottom ones are damn near impossible to remove without getting the head off, so I'll just take the manifold off with the head. Meanwhile, remove the eight 10mm nuts that hold the valve cover on.
Break time. Greg's E30 is prowling in the back.
With the valve cover off, you can gain acess to the head bolts. They are 19mm bolts and there are 8 of them. Take them off in sequence, start with the corners and go towards the inside, gradually loosening up each bolt 1/4th to 1/2 turn at a time until they're loose and can be removed by hand.
It may be hard to break them at first, you can use 2 wrenches together to substitute as a breaker bar if you're too lazy to walk to the table and grab one.
My valve cover still looks pretty good, there's no sludge at all.
It helps to organize all your parts in bags.
Remove the coolant lines, remove any and all coolant lines that go to/from the head. The line from the temp sensor housing to the manifold can remain as it will come off with the head and can be disconnected at a later time.
Remove the bracket that holds the coil in place, it is held on by one 10mm bolt. Unplug the coil and remove it.
Remove the three 13mm (IIRC) bolts on the side of the distributor, towards the firewall. The bottom one is the hardest to get to. Remove the distributor cap if you need room for your hands. Unplug all plug wires and remove them from the vehicle. This exposes your distributor gear.
With the head bolts removed, the head is almost ready to be removed.
I'm stopping here, will continue tomorrow.
07-04-2008, 08:07 AM
#4
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 28
Re: BMW 2002 Homemade Turbo Build Thread
Remove the eight 10mm bolts on the side of the timing chain cover.
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick bracket on the driver's side of the manifold.
Remove the bolt that attaches the alternator ground to the timing chain cover.
Insert a prying tool in as shown.
Gently pull towards the front of the engine, the cover should seperate.
Flatten the tabs that lock the cam bolts in place.
Clean the sprocket and chain off with a cloth and make marks to line up when reinstalling the cam.
Gently pry the sprocket off from the back, from multiple directions.
Lower the sprocket within the chain, and remove it once the teeth slip off of the links.
Secure the chain with a coat hanger or whatever. I found a coathanger laying around so I used that.
That's all I had time for today, I stayed late from work and had to stop working on the car early and go see Hancock with some friends. Great movie by the way.
Remove the 10mm bolt that holds the dipstick bracket on the driver's side of the manifold.
Remove the bolt that attaches the alternator ground to the timing chain cover.
Insert a prying tool in as shown.
Gently pull towards the front of the engine, the cover should seperate.
Flatten the tabs that lock the cam bolts in place.
Clean the sprocket and chain off with a cloth and make marks to line up when reinstalling the cam.
Gently pry the sprocket off from the back, from multiple directions.
Lower the sprocket within the chain, and remove it once the teeth slip off of the links.
Secure the chain with a coat hanger or whatever. I found a coathanger laying around so I used that.
That's all I had time for today, I stayed late from work and had to stop working on the car early and go see Hancock with some friends. Great movie by the way.
07-04-2008, 12:12 PM
#5
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 0
Re: BMW 2002 Homemade Turbo Build Thread
that carb is a weber 32/36. you can get a holley 500 adapter plate.. i'd highly advise it, the weber flows enough air for a n/a toyota pickup, i can't imagine a bmw with boost.
wait, it's a 4cyl, not a 6. 6's had dual webers, the jetting is plug and play for a 22r swap. eh still, a nice fat holley would make for easier tuning and such
wait, it's a 4cyl, not a 6. 6's had dual webers, the jetting is plug and play for a 22r swap. eh still, a nice fat holley would make for easier tuning and such
07-04-2008, 01:09 PM
#7
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 508
Re: BMW 2002 Homemade Turbo Build Thread
Originally Posted by c0mpl3x
that carb is a weber 32/36. you can get a holley 500 adapter plate.. i'd highly advise it, the weber flows enough air for a n/a toyota pickup, i can't imagine a bmw with boost.
wait, it's a 4cyl, not a 6. 6's had dual webers, the jetting is plug and play for a 22r swap. eh still, a nice fat holley would make for easier tuning and such
wait, it's a 4cyl, not a 6. 6's had dual webers, the jetting is plug and play for a 22r swap. eh still, a nice fat holley would make for easier tuning and such
07-04-2008, 04:53 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 28
Re: BMW 2002 Homemade Turbo Build Thread
Originally Posted by pissnuts
lol im pretty sure he is going to be running fuel injection bob
