block guard or pinning
#23
Re:block guard or pinning
Block filler is great for race only.. But you may run into cooling problems if daily driving it.
It's simple to do... fill half the block up with Salt, then dump your epoxy/filler in. (go almost all the way to the top) then let dry.
Drill some holes for cooling, flip the block over, and let the salt come out, and walah, you now have supported sleeves. IMO, I would recommend having the pistons in, crank w/ mains all torqed and even the head on torqued in place while the epoxy/filler is drying.
Jeff
It's simple to do... fill half the block up with Salt, then dump your epoxy/filler in. (go almost all the way to the top) then let dry.
Drill some holes for cooling, flip the block over, and let the salt come out, and walah, you now have supported sleeves. IMO, I would recommend having the pistons in, crank w/ mains all torqed and even the head on torqued in place while the epoxy/filler is drying.
Jeff
#24
Re:block guard or pinning
i was thinking of runing 15 psi on my 95 accord, i was talking to this guy from Auto Link. i asked him is it enough if i just get pistons and rods for my block, he told not to get pistons ond rods unless i'm gonna sleeve my block. he told me that the after market pistons rings are made out of differnt metal than the factory pistons rigns. he said after market pistons and rods would work with out sleeving it, but the engine is not gonna last. the after market piston rings will damge the side wall in a short period of time.
#25
Re:block guard or pinning
Well news flash. Almost eveyr set of piston rigns ive ever seen have been made out of IRON. there are alot of coatings moly,chrome.plasma moly etc. but pretty much all rings are made from either gray,nodular or ,ductile iron.
As for cylinder wall wear.
Fuel wash and ring tension. not ring material will really have the biggest impact on the life of your cylinder walls and sleeves.
Sounds like another slip shod salesmen.
As for the debate oof Block Guard VS posting.
Nascar crews used posting not becuase thet wanted to but becuase they had to. Also those engines ran for very short amount of time. Often replacing the same engine 4-5x's in a single weekend end.
As for the Blockguard. If you get a properly done weld in and the coolant holes are where the outlets for the factory headgasket are then the overheating isues are most likely pump or terriably high EGT's.
The block guard is a much better idea when cvombined with new sleeves and proper machine work wth proper weld in.
As for cylinder wall wear.
Fuel wash and ring tension. not ring material will really have the biggest impact on the life of your cylinder walls and sleeves.
Sounds like another slip shod salesmen.
As for the debate oof Block Guard VS posting.
Nascar crews used posting not becuase thet wanted to but becuase they had to. Also those engines ran for very short amount of time. Often replacing the same engine 4-5x's in a single weekend end.
As for the Blockguard. If you get a properly done weld in and the coolant holes are where the outlets for the factory headgasket are then the overheating isues are most likely pump or terriably high EGT's.
The block guard is a much better idea when cvombined with new sleeves and proper machine work wth proper weld in.
#26
Re:block guard or pinning
Originally Posted by sean88accord
Also those engines ran for very short amount of time. Often replacing the same engine 4-5x's in a single weekend end.
And replacing the motor 4-5 times in a weekend? There's only one race, and I don't remember any motor swaps in the pits.
It seems your very against posting. But I'd have to bet you've never actually experimented with it. We've had a ton of people here that have all had blockgaurd problems, and not too many posting complaints. "You guys didn't machine it right" wouldn't be a valid reason since, this is the real world.
#27
Re:block guard or pinning
Heres my idea. I have a ZC thats going im my forends car and ill post picts when done.
Basically, is a cross between pinning and ussing filler.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...BlockGuard.jpg
1) Make a negative mold out of foam of like 1/2" by 1/2" triangle.
2) Insert into water jacket and fill with filler
3) When dry break the foam away leaving a post made out of filler
Advantages
This will increase the area so there will be a lot less pressure at the point of contact as complared to pins making it less likely to cause strss points that could cause failure. You wot have the over heating problems. You wont have to drill into the block. Easy.
Concerns
When the block and sleeves heat up, the expansion may cause either a relif of clearence of an expansion will cause the sleeve to be pressed out of round.
Tell me what you guys think, its only in the planning stage
Basically, is a cross between pinning and ussing filler.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-...BlockGuard.jpg
1) Make a negative mold out of foam of like 1/2" by 1/2" triangle.
2) Insert into water jacket and fill with filler
3) When dry break the foam away leaving a post made out of filler
Advantages
This will increase the area so there will be a lot less pressure at the point of contact as complared to pins making it less likely to cause strss points that could cause failure. You wot have the over heating problems. You wont have to drill into the block. Easy.
Concerns
When the block and sleeves heat up, the expansion may cause either a relif of clearence of an expansion will cause the sleeve to be pressed out of round.
Tell me what you guys think, its only in the planning stage