looking at the bin there is no more timing retard after 12psi. that and it looks like you're running max'd duty cycle prior to 17psi...that's not nec 100% correct, but something to look at. what size injectors were you running? also i see your redline of 7500, but your fts at 6800. do you have fts hooked up? the fuel curves are also all over the place as is some of the timing. you shouldn't be crossing all over the place (look at your 2d)...there should be somewhat smooth and usually follow somewhat of a pattern.

the y7, like the y8 likes a base timing of 12deg. i'd start with the p2p map, disable the vtec, get your afr good then start adding timing throughout the map so you know it's safe.

i'd say timing and fuel did it in. start with a new base map when you rebuild it. good luck.

 

I was running 93 octane.
I not tuned the timing - I dont know how EGT ?

I think .75 or 1 not big dial on 15-17 psi... I was run 10psi - same map on stock engine. and stock pistons hold it(not melt) . so, i thought forget pistons gonna do the good job.


No, I want to buy same engine and just swap all internals.

I want to feel 20-25 psi , but i dont want to blow it again

 

What is mean "fts" .

You are right about retard taming after 12psi, i not went to the boost tools after i add the 3 bar sensor ...

D16y7 injectors is 195 cc ... I wrote 195 - 450 ... program changet it to the 240 - 541 - I think it is right.

 

crap out injector?

 

Now that sucks!

 

Pure detonation from a lean condition killed that motor.

You maxed those injectors out running that much boost on a stock FPR. 17psi takes the equivalent fuel pressure down to around 22ish psi making those 450's seem like 330's or less.

If you were datalogging when it happened, post it.

 

i didnt look at the map but something we seriously wrong, i dont think it was just the tune (again i didnt look at the map) but forged pistons can take a good beating....10psi isnt much, ....Ive seen a 13:1cr motor with a 200 shot of n2o an afr of 18:1 do less damage to the pistons. the guy who did it upped the n2o from a 100 to a 200 and didnt change fuel jets....and the pistons barely melted, yours look fucked

 

To much timing (as per the piston not the map).
After looking at your bin, Id put money on it not being synced w/ the dizzy. Between 600-1000rpm, you had 3 diff. timing #'s in the respective cells. Basically, have a nice day trying to sync that w/ a timing light.
Next time make it look like this in the idle area.


Even if it was synced, Id personally not run that much timing at 17psi until it was on a dyno.

 

D16Y7 doesn't have quench pads like D16Y8, but they still don't like much timing. Seeing as how the one engine I ever killed that is solely my fault was a D16Y7, I can ASSure you that running a B15B7 or Z6 lowcam ignition map and .75 deg/psi retard is too much timing.

Also, in the 17 psi range you are approaching or exceeding 300 whp, which is where 450cc are going to run out with 41 psi fuel pressure. (I've taken stock FPR to 17 psi and had it work correctly, but it's also one of the large outlet FPRs... I run them on cars with overfuelling idle problems after Walbro installs) Also, I skimmed quick and didn;t read through or look at your .bin, but if it's the stock fuel pump sometimes they die off at 250 whp.

I dunno if excessive ignition timing (smoking at 10 psi could mean broen ring lands from timing) or lean condition killed you off... certainly it could be a bit of both.

 

Dude that sucks but:

Some people just have to find out the hard way, that tuning is not all fuel and that if you want more then 14-15psi, YOU NEED A DYNO. Sure you can street tune and get lucky, but obviously you didn't!