flipsoft

I am new to this so I would like to get some feedback about boosting a 99 Integra GSR. The motor is completely stock and only has 50K miles on it. For now I want to boost the car to 5-6 PSI so I can have a daily driver and still use the stock internals and ECU. I will later spend more money on AEM ECU, AEM fuel rail, larger injectors, and a JG intake manifold. For now here are the items I want to use.

1. SFP turbo manifold for B18C. (I heard this one will let me keep your A/C and P/S. Any others besides a custom that would let me keep them?)

2. Garrett T3/T4B .48/.60 (I know this turbo will do a high PSI but for now I want to keep it in the 5-6 range to start.)

3. Tial 35mm wastegate. (The manifold takes tial and deltagate. I have read that tials seem to be better. Anyone confirm this?)

4. Large Front mount intercooler. (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/turbo_projects/d16z6_2/ like this one.)

5. Charge pipes (Either custom mandrel bent or ones from JC Whitney. Anyone bought one's from JC Whitney and used them on a GSR before? Http links and Advice?)

6. HKS or Greddy blow off valve. (Any sugestions?)

7. Need suggestions for downpipe.

8. AEM Fuel pump. (Do I need this?)

9. AEM Adjust CAM gears (Will I need these to retard timing so I can run 91 octain fuel?)

Please give me your suggestions (Hopefully based off of experience) or inform me of anything I have left out that will be needed.

flipsoft

HMT-Admin

Sounds like you got a good start, but you will need to get some type of fuel management even though you will be saving for the AEM EMS.. the car will not last with no fuel management, especially on a GSR.

Blow off valves, pretty much anything you want, they all ------- work, from the cheap bosch plastic ones to the Turbonetics Godzilla valve and Tial 50mm valve.

Downpipe?

well that will be custom, nobody makes downpipes for custom kits. What size? 2.5 should be just fine, if you can and dont mind try to squeeze a 3.0 in their. (better for later on)

Fuel pump? For 5-6 psi No, not at all... even when you run AFC type hack w/ some larger injectors your pump is good up til around 10psi. But if you do run a rising rate regulator (FMU) I would suggest getting one a bit sooner, say around 8psi.

Cam gears? sure, they always help especially when tuning on the dyno. This isnt going to let you run 91 oct.

Sounds like you got a pretty good idea of what you need, and just keep reading through the projects and the forum.

Good luck!
Jeff Frank

flipsoft

Thanks for the help.

I wanted to add...

5a. Here is what I was looking at for charge pipes from JC Whitney. http://www.jcwhitney.com/product.jht...=14721&BQ=jcw2 (Are these what most people use?)

10. FMU. Any suggestions for my kind of application? I would probably like a rising rate one.

11. What would let me run street gas? AEM ECU? (I am in CA so the highest octane is 91 here. I know it sucks.) If I cannot run 91 octane then do most people use octane boosters and cooler plugs?

12. Also for oil cooling... I understand how to make the oil return line to the oilpan, but where do you pull the oil from on a GSR? (I don't see this talked about much.)
Thanks again.

HMT-Admin

Yup those are the charge pipes lots of people use on their setups...

10. FMU? well any FMu is going to be a RRR Rising Rate Regulator, you will just have decide which level of disc you want to use, they come in different styles 5:1 8:1 12:1 basically for every 1 psi 5psi of fuel pressure is added to your fuel system. I dont have the best knowledge working with FMU's since I never liked them, but My guess is that a 8:1 should be just fine for what you are doing. Anything higher may risk doing damage to the stock injectors.

11. Well if thats all the gas you got, than thats what you have to deal with, thats fine.. I've seen guy in Cali make over 400+ hp on pump gas on Built B-series. Your goal is not that unrealistic, so I wouldnt worry about it.

12. Basically all oil feeds on hondas are the same, we all tap off the back off the block (oil pressure sender) and put a BRASS T their. Do a search and you will find some pictures and see how other people have done it. All the sizes apply to D-B-H-F series Honda engines.. 1/8th BPT off the back of the block.

Jeff

flipsoft

Jeff,
I was wondering if I used a .42/.48 ratio would I see faster spooling with decreased overall PSI? What exactly determines the spool time and the overall PSI?

I think this would be similar to a bicycle's gear ratio. Being that if you have a larger exhaust trim (Large Front Gear) it would be harder for the exhaust gasses to spin and it would spin slower than a smaller trim (Small Front Gear). Leading to a longer spool time but with a higher overall PSI rating because the compressor side is spinning faster with less rotations of the exhaust side.

And visa-versa with the trim on the exhaust being smaller it would spin easier and spool faster which would make it alot harder to achieve a higher boost.

So if you divide the exhaust .60 by the compressor .48 people get the ratio of 1.25. Is that what this rating is?

Is this right or do I have them backwards?(i.e. larger trim on exhaust cups more air so it is easier to begin spinning.)

Also are the Garrett turbo trims easy to replace and swap out? Like if I wanted to get a less powerful turbo to start with and change it to my needs later? I see alot of cheaper T3/T4 turbo's on ebay besides the comon .48/.60.
Thanks again!