AaronZ34

Thanks

I love the avatar!

jo_gobel

yes, GAGT = grandamgt.com


and thank god your not that Aaron.

bigdaddyvtec

I wantede to hate this pile of ---- as I SAW NO ------- POPRN IN THE INTRO... But I really dig the car....

And your cat but there is no Ch33ZeBurg3r in Teh Pan. L4wlZ



Now dont be a ****** and post some **** (and none of that gay ----.


Welcome, nice ride... Even if it is a gay *** Fiero, it could be worse, I guess.... it could be a Ford... Or an Accord


LOL

HiProfile

By small intercooler, I meant the bike rad you refered to earlier as teh heat exhanger. I've never seen a street bike with a particularly large radiator, but I do know of several air-water setups that have large heat exchangers that still lead to heatsoak if you do more than a few pulls at a time. Maybe you don't look at your IAT's much? Anyways, max capacity is different from continuous capacity. For example, a particular bone-stock B16 held 560whp for several dyno pulls and a few track runs, but still blew up later (only making 300whp blown ).


As for the divided housings, it would be like a true dual exhaust if you know much about V8's and x-overs and crap.

The dirty explaination:
Turbos require high manifold pressure, which hurts exhaust scavenging; exhaust pulses can hurt further if the pressure wave hits a valve that's starting to open, or one that's at the overlap point. Dividing the cylinders evenly reduces this considerably, especially with more power/rpm. The way it helps spool the turbo is the reduced pressure needed. Each exhaust pulse has to fill half the volume of piping before it 'acts' upon the turbine wheel. You can either use a single WG (divided all the way to the valve), or two WG's if that makes it simpler. Since there's up to a 3:1 pressure differential between manifold & downpipe/dumppipe, the gases do not revert back into the other half of the divided manifold. You then increase the housing size, which still results in more power AND better response/spool.


As for GT knowledge, you are lacking. A GT35 signifies roughly a T3 turbine & CHRA with a T4 compressor. So you're essentially running a T3 turbine wheel in a T4 exhaust housing. Although the housing does play a big role, the role of turbine wheel trumps that. You won't add much HP capacaity with a larger housing when you keep the same turbine wheel. Now for turbo sizing for displacement - 500whp with gasoline with produce roughly the same amount of exhaust gases, wether its on a 2.0L motor or a 4.0L motor. You do generally upsize the turbo on a bigger motor, but that's just due to the smaller cylinders burning the mixture faster, making a little more power per CFM.

Case and point, a 1.8L GSR with a GT35R w/ undivided .82AR T3 housing. 17psi with 93 octane netted ~420whp. Moving the powerband around for a 3.4L motor puts spool at ~3500rpm, and same NA exhaust flow at your 5k vs his 8.4k. Look where he made 420whp, then look where your engine makes the best power... (It also shows that 'small' housing can make 605whp, 2nd link shows 650whp) If anything, you should have just gone with an overall larger turbo like a GT4088R, or even a Borg-Warner turbo.
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...hp?f=27&t=4808
http://forums.evans-tuning.com/viewt...hp?f=27&t=4656

ATP turbo's pages help lots with info, since they offer so many options & examples:
http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=GRT


BTW, all the 'n00b' ---- posted is good. Basicly we accept you, but there's still the 90-day probationary period in case you wave teh homo flag or something. :P

HomeMadeTurboz

Good write up, but stop calling a 60mm turbo a huge turbo, it is on the small end of mid sized turbo's, that and 3.4L's on a T3 hotside...

Edit, holy ---- lots was posted in the time i pushed reply.

bigdaddyvtec

Ya I would have went for at least a 67 MM and T4 1.01 hotside


My 2.2L PIle spools the ---- out of a S cover PT6176 with T4 hotside...... This thing would have absoilutely no problem... Even wiith the gay rev limited top end...

seerex

Thats a good thing. I have not seen a better intro post in a while. The same old dirty D-series gets a little old sometimes.

AaronZ34

Ya'll are a bunch of horny pervs.

Or a Honda in general....It's not like it's much different from a Honda, just a cheap econobox. Just mine's RWD, and actually looks good








I have not had a chance to look at my IAT's at all. The radiator is actually pretty good size, it's bigger than most Honda radiators. It's off a newer ZX10R IIRC. Plus my system has a large water capacity, so it takes a lot more to heat it up. And with it running through the exposed copper lines, it cools a lot through that as well. I don't anticipate having any troubles being that it is pretty over-engineered for my power levels as it is. Remember that B16 is making much more power, and running much more boost, than I am.

I know my way around a V8

Interesting about the divided housings.

I chose the 35 for a reason, and spent a lot of time in compressor maps. At this altitude, it's on the big side of what I need (Which partially explains it not coming on until 3500rpm). I definitely don't want bigger, however don't really want to go smaller either. However using current technology (Split housings, variable vanes, etc), I could probably pick up a bit of power int he midrange. But it wouldn't be worth the added cost of doing it right now.

As for the huge numbers that guy's 1.8 is putting down, that's all wonderful and all, but it isn't practical for me. 600rwhp, and I'm pretty sure I'd be chucking rods (Stock short block). Plus, the car is already a handful at 417rwhp. I've driven plenty of 600hp cars, but a 600hp Fiero is different, and it isn't just the weight (It still weighs 2800).

Thanks for the info. I stand by that I sized my turbo correctly, and at sea level it'd come on much quicker (All of my flow calcs were done assuming ambient temp/pres). But if I were interested in doing it over now, I thing I would go with a T3 divided housing. I'd actually go with twins, but same idea.

Regarding my sexual preferences, see pictures above (Minus the last one).

For what I wanted, it is big. I'm not out for the biggest dyno numbers, I don't want a Supra. And as said above, it is a T4 hotside (Although a slightly smaller wheel). I really like how the car performs. Below 3,000rpm, it's got stock torque and gets going well, and then north of there, it gets fun. Although I like sky high RPMs, I've driven a few 8,000+ rpm cars, and wasn't very impressed. Just not what I wanted in a car. Not saying I like 4500rpm TPI Camaros....

Why? So I could lose another 500-1000rpm of spool time? As said above, I don't want, or need, anymore power up top. I'm already at the limit of my short block, and the car is wicked fast as it is.

AaronZ34

Thanks. I actually did it, and I love it. If your friends open their mouths, just let them ride her. They'll be bowing down to you.

Although it has a bad reputation, I've never had more fun driving a car in my life (And I've driven some pimpass cars). Plus, it's not FWD, hooks up like it's AWD, and it's very easy to get it fast.

Thanks. I see what you mean about the D-series.