tranceminister

damnit!!! Now you guy's have me thinking. And I don't like to think. Haha, I have a T3 .60/.48 I was going to use on my B18 ls engine. But now I don't know... maybe I should get a .48 too just in case the .60 is too laggy.

b16_destroyer

Remember, we are talking about exhaust housing AR's, not compressor AR's. The bigger the compressor the better, a little lag but alot more power than a bigger exhaust housing.

leed

Id use the .63 on a B18.
Try it out, not that hard to swap if you no likey....

b16_destroyer

That is very true , you can have both exhaust housings and switch them out for different types of racing. 48AR for AutoX/street racing and 63AR for big dyno runs and dragstrip racing.

beerbongskickass

I think you mean less back pressure will give you a quicker spool time.

Todd

The point your arguing is not valid.. spooling the turbo 500 rpm faster in first gear is not going to make a bit of difference. Everyone launches at aleast 4k rpm.. What difference does it make if you get full boost at 4k or 3500? or for that matter 2000rpm. Your little honda engine is not going to make any power at 2000rpm anyway. Especially not with 5psi going into it. And at no point during the race will you ever fall out of boost, so who cares. Your acting like the car is gonna be slow by running a .63 ar which is just complete bullshit.

The only example I can give is my car.. till I get the clutch the whole way out on launch I am above 5krpm.. and I have full boost right away. I hit second and instantly have full boost.. Same with the next three gears.. There is absolutely no wait for boost. I have a precision SC61 turbo and a tubular manifold with a nice merge collector, Full 3" exhaust and a very short charge pipe distance. Maybe my setup is just Ideal..

b16_destroyer

NO...your missing my point. Rpms don't make boost, strain on the engine makes boost. Different AR exhaust housings simply put the turbos power band in different places in the RPM band.

For example, 48AR exhaust housing will usually stop flowing efficiently and start creating backpressure around 7200-7500rpms.

The 63AR will start creating backpressure around 8500-9000 rpms.

The Boosted GSR slowness I mentioned is because there is a greater engine strain in 4th gear than there is in 1st gear. Dyno runs are made in 4th gear, not 1st 2nd or 3rd. The butt dyno usually measures Gforces. A stock B18C just doesn't feel as fast with the 63AR in lower gears because it is only 1800cc's.

Now you put the same 63AR turbo on a 2.0-2.4 liter engine and you can see where the displacement comes in. Yes, the GSR and B16 are some of the best flowing heads in the 4cylinder world; but there is still no replacement for displacement.

And since the majority of Honda's out there are using 1.6-1.8 liters, I say go with the 48AR and if you need more power just go with a bigger compressor wheel, or clip the turbine wheel, or port the exhaust housing.

48AR ALL THE WAY!!!

Todd

I'm sorry.. Your retarded and I'll just leave it at that. Wtf does a fourth gear dyno pull have anything to do with what I just described?? I guess you hooked a pressure gauge up to the turbo manifold to see when it started to make boost? Just so you know.. Anytime there is pressure in the intake side there will be equal or greater pressure in the turbo manifold.. If not the turbo won't keep spinning.

88crxSi

i thought dyno pulls were in 3rd? wouldnt 4th bog way to much down at like 1500rpm when u start the pull?

Todd

Well with the .48 ar you make full boost there and start to spin the tires.. you need fourth gear to keep traction..