3 bar map sensor, is it necessary?
#11
Re: 3 bar map sensor, is it necessary?
You're all idiots.
The first bar of a MAP sensor's reading is neatly eclipsed by the 14.7 psi of atmospheric pressure.
85-91 MAP = 9.25 psi
92+ MAP = 10.6 psi
You can make stock MAP sensor read 21.5 psi, though, it's easy. You just dig the OE sensor out of the casing and stuff a Motorola 2.5 bar inside it.
The first bar of a MAP sensor's reading is neatly eclipsed by the 14.7 psi of atmospheric pressure.
85-91 MAP = 9.25 psi
92+ MAP = 10.6 psi
You can make stock MAP sensor read 21.5 psi, though, it's easy. You just dig the OE sensor out of the casing and stuff a Motorola 2.5 bar inside it.
#12
Re: 3 bar map sensor, is it necessary?
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
The first bar of a MAP sensor's reading is neatly eclipsed by the 14.7 psi of atmospheric pressure.
85-91 MAP = 9.25 psi
92+ MAP = 10.6 psi
85-91 MAP = 9.25 psi
92+ MAP = 10.6 psi
#16
Re: 3 bar map sensor, is it necessary?
Originally Posted by Inquisition
Yep. So where is the proof?
Blundar, JDogg aka JDouchelordMBAseekingnoskillpossessingfaggot, Speed Phreak, Tr1t0n, and a few others were present in March '04 when I asked Doug MacMillan of Hyundaidata why his website claimed 11.3 psi, derived from code and rounding errors, when they in actuality returned 10.65 psi? His glib response was that all of the OBD1/OBD2 sensors they tested returned various upper limits, as low as 10.4, but this is obvious horseshit. Why claim 11.3 psi fixed value? Why advertise this with no tech blurb/disclaimer, rendering accurate boost cut control in software useless?
Inqyfag, you are a ------- Legend among zero experience having recycled information of various accuracy spewing Internet Keyboard Warriors. At no time do you - or will you ever, at this rate - possess a fraction of my experience or my the-o-rectal knowledge. My every tech post and every write up and every car I tune or build or sort or fix attests to this - do not think that just because I ask people not to ----- dyno sheets combined with my name, do not think I don't have a pile of them.
What have you done? Nothing... except get every tech post you make wrong, and insinuate that I lie. Well? Prove it. Prove anything. Burden of proof is in your court, seeing as you're the Nobody With Something To Prove. :1
Originally Posted by trex661
your fine up to 12 psi on the stock sensor. :1
#18
Re: 3 bar map sensor, is it necessary?
No, I'm insinuating that your accuracy to the hundreth's place is absolutely ridiculous and that I don't trust that whomever gave you the information probably didn't do too much on the testing side. Seriously, look at Hondata. They ------- release software for years and its full of bugs. They release IAT/ECT correction and its just ----. Their credibility does not go too far with me regardless how much you love their Limey accents. You're arguement makes you lose some credibility simply because you make it look like any map sensor outputs up to 5V. Look up some data sheets. None that we use do. I've yet to see one that does. So yea, saying it reads up to about 11psi is good enough. If you want to use exact numbers to the hundreths place, you better have data to back up your statements.
And Ifly, these are absolute sensors. The idea of psi really doesn't work with them but basically any point past 14.7psi or 1013mbar is concidered positive pressure. This can vary a huge amount from gauge pressure but thats the way every EMS software in the world works. This means if you go up to colorado and lets say it has an atmospheric pressure of 13.7psi and before you were at sea level with an atmospheric pressure of 14.7psi and you ran a naturally asperated engine, at WOT the map sensor would read 13.7psi(or close enough) but your pressure gauge would read 0psi. The idea behind the ECU is that it knows a number of corrections which will mean if you tuned for section in the map that corresponds to 13.7psi the car should run just dandy.
And Ifly, these are absolute sensors. The idea of psi really doesn't work with them but basically any point past 14.7psi or 1013mbar is concidered positive pressure. This can vary a huge amount from gauge pressure but thats the way every EMS software in the world works. This means if you go up to colorado and lets say it has an atmospheric pressure of 13.7psi and before you were at sea level with an atmospheric pressure of 14.7psi and you ran a naturally asperated engine, at WOT the map sensor would read 13.7psi(or close enough) but your pressure gauge would read 0psi. The idea behind the ECU is that it knows a number of corrections which will mean if you tuned for section in the map that corresponds to 13.7psi the car should run just dandy.
#19
Re: 3 bar map sensor, is it necessary?
Originally Posted by Inquisition
No, I'm insinuating that your accuracy to the hundreth's place is absolutely ridiculous
Originally Posted by Inquisition
and that I don't trust that whomever gave you the information probably didn't do too much on the testing side.
Originally Posted by Inquisition
Seriously, look at Hondata. They ------- release software for years and its full of bugs. They release IAT/ECT correction and its just ----. Their credibility does not go too far with me regardless how much you love their Limey accents.
And they aren't Limeys, they are Kiwis. Some Limeys are actually bright, Kiwis are dumb farm boys.
Originally Posted by Inquisition
You're arguement makes you lose some credibility simply because you make it look like any map sensor outputs up to 5V. Look up some data sheets. None that we use do.
Hyundaidata's ASSumption is that the Honduh MAP is a 0-5v return sensor.
We use GM MAPs, which are 5v return sensors.
I am full well aware that Kavlico (or the Honeywell ASP100 6.9 bar I have on the shelf) are 0.5-4.5 volt return, and that the Motorola 2.5 bar is a 4.9v return.
:1 dur dur dur dur you are a ------- dumbass! :1
Originally Posted by Inquisition
The idea of psi really doesn't work with them