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-   -   2008 Daewoo Matiz Turbo by Boost Freaks (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forced-induction-7/2008-daewoo-matiz-turbo-boost-freaks-120820/)

silencium 02-13-2015 11:49 AM

Ok, that's good if its a strong turbo. What car is it from?
What are your plans for the turbo upgrade? A bigger compressor wheel would not make much sense here, because its a low boost application, right? Or is the boost dropping at higher rpm's?
How do you want to upgrade the clutch? Is there a larger clutch from a bigger Daewoo that fits p&p? That's maybe the only solution, because I guess there are no aftermarket performance clutches for this car.
Happy boosting mate :)

PS:
A nice upgrade always is an electronic boost controller. Especially on a low boost application. If it's properly configured, your can reach your boost limit sooner in the lower rpm's. I realized that on my turbo build lately :D

Regen 02-13-2015 04:17 PM

Turbo is from an old Citroen 1.7 diesel, internal wastegate, early nineties or something, I think it already had 100k + miles on it already :)) It's old school so that means no electronics for it, boost level is set via the wastegate rod (could upgrade to a manual boost controller, but I don't think it will ever be necessary)

We're using an additional spring to keep the boost lower than the minimum wastegate setting so no, boost is not dropping at all :)) , actually the threshold at which it kicks in is at 3200 rpm (measured on 4th gear) and holds right until redline (6400), but the upgrade is made considering power in mind and with plans for the future where most likely it will be pushing 20+ psi. This is practically what you would call a 'big turbo' for this engine, drives likes stock until you take it above 3200 rpm and apply some load on the throttle.

The upgrade will be indeed a bigger compressor wheel, but made of a lighter material, so along with a turbo blanket it should eventually spool even quicker while delivering a higher flow at the same psi. I'm hoping to reach 100 engine hp with about 8-8.5 psi, which will be more than a 100% increase in both power and torque from stock.

Clutch is already upgraded, ceramic disk along with a hardened pressure plate, you can see some pics earlier in the topic. I know it will hold 100 hp, but not how much after that :) I'll probably need another upgrade along the way.

It's a very long term project, it will probably need a few more years to reach its maximum potential. I'm hoping that this setup along with a built transmission and engine will break 150 engine hp, hell maybe even get it closer to 200.

P.S: Aside the suspension, everything that you see (and that will be added later) is custom build for this car, as there virtually no aftermarket parts for it that fit my desired application.

silencium 02-14-2015 05:37 AM

Sounds interesting. Custom made parts are nicer anyway :) "build, not bought parts, for the build, not bought car" :D
Yeah, if your boost is under the WG pressure, then the use of an electr. BC might not be possible. But for your later goals it would be nice, because it keeps the WG shut until the set boost. With just the spring actuator or manual BC there is always a certain band where it opens already a little before the desired boost.
I guess for the 150+ hp goals some head work is gonna be inevitable, due the ports / valves are laid-out for what? 50hp? :D . And like you said already, some forged pistons, rods etc. will be necessary.
Greetings mate

Regen 02-14-2015 03:21 PM

Yeah, the car is stock at 48 hp :D

It will definitely need a full build of the engine, complete with a bigger TB, a proper intake manifold - I'm thinking aluminum (stock is plastic :D) and a stronger PCV valve made for turbo applications.

What will be most tricky won't be the engine, though, but to build a sturdy transmission with some proper gearing.

Only time will tell what's going to happen :)

And another quick video with the BOV and intake sound.


silencium 02-16-2015 02:53 AM

You forgot to mention an oil cooler ;) But the list goes on anyway. I built a NA-T car as well, and I also had to make a lot of changes :D
But why do you need a bigger PCV valve? My crankcase ventilation is just leading into the suction pipe in front of the turbo. I'm not sure a PCV valve would really be necessary!?

Regen 02-16-2015 10:32 AM

On this car the PCV system is not only there for ventilation, but it actually supplies part of the air needed for idle. So I can't delete it, but I will need a stronger valve as the stock one has a chance of failing and I don't want boost going where it's not supposed to :D

Regen 02-17-2015 03:01 PM

2 Attachment(s)
And speaking of custom build parts, I've just received a little upgrade: the stock 4.5J R13 ET45 steel rims have been converted to 5.8J R13 ET26. Goodies!

silencium 02-18-2015 08:50 AM

Have you just welded in a spacer ring?

Regen 02-18-2015 01:02 PM

4 Attachment(s)
No, they are made from two sets.

silencium 02-19-2015 06:32 AM

They look awesome! :D
Post a pic of them on the car then plz :)


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