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- - 16g help (https://www.homemadeturbo.com/forced-induction-7/16g-help-94376/)

If you're truly "power mad" like you claim; a 16g isn't the turbo you want. A 20G is getting closer @ 52.5mm, but turbine wise it's still <Garrett.

ha yea i know what you mean... im kinda on a budget too, and im replacing so much more than i thought i would have to (for example, $250 at advanced yesterday for an oil pump, timing belt tensioner, t belt, and t stat) so im kinda running paycheck to paycheck and using every cent of it! how much would a 20g cost and is it going to have the same flange as my mani?

thanks

matt

Slow Boy racing makes a bastard 20g which is a big 16g ported out to hold a 20g wheel, this allows it to bolt directly onto a set up designed to run a big16 g with out having to change anything. again its still pretty much like a big16g just flows a bit more air. its not very cheap i payed over 1200.00 for mine , but then i had it fully ported and polished and the waste gate bored out and ported with a bigger flapper to help avoid boost creep. i know big numbers sound good on paper but again often you dont get any low end grunt and thats no fun red light to red light . here is a time slip from last night , this is a SOHC d16z6 with a bone stock head and intake the block only has ARP studs and scat rods and srp pistons. my car is a CRX thats not gutted in any way and has a stereo systrem and all the other daily driver stuff in it. i simply go to the track and bolt on slicks and race then put on my street tires and go home. i am making 305 whp and 265 tq to the wheels. i am plenty fast enough to run with the majority of the cars in my area, and i am typically the quickest import on any given friday night event.
Attachment 15513

Quote:

Originally Posted by QwikCRX

The proof is in the puddin' bitches...

If you REALLY want to stick w/ the mitsu housing, you can also go with a slow boy bastard 20g. Otherwise they also make the .50 tim, and sc61's with a mitsu housing that would bolt right up as well

so you ran a 17.7@79.7 thats not impressive

ha see i cant afford to spend like more than 200 bucks on a turbo, thats where its going to get me. i could pick up a nice 20g for like 220 right?

and make that 300-320whp?

thanks,
matt

if thats all you got to spend i would just get a ebay big 16g , i ran one and it was fine, i still went mid to low 12s on that turbo.

Quote:

Originally Posted by yamaha6611

ha see i cant afford to spend like more than 200 bucks on a turbo, thats where its going to get me. i could pick up a nice 20g for like 220 right?

and make that 300-320whp?

thanks,
matt

20G is way more than $220. It's hard to even get a good used MHI 16g for that much. The 20G goes for $850-$1200 new, so you'll never get a good used one for $220; not even $320. I mean there's always the rare exception. Even though I hate on Mitsu turbos; I still think the smaller TD05H 20G is great on a street driven 4-banger. Spools reasonable enough and has a pretty fat compressor wheel too. 300whp is way more attainable on pump gas with a 20G than a 16g.

----, from what you're looking at, it may be cheaper to just use a t3/t4. Atleast you can go cdm and not break the bank until you can afford a good legit turbo.

Big mitsu turbos are not cheap. Why? They dont sell enough of them. Remember when 16g's cost $800 new? You can flex an unported/unclipped 16g for about $275 on ebay, maybe less. Just keep on ebay and look around. Some are legit, some are cdm but the quality for the 16g's is about the same. That's the general opinion in the dsm scene. I haven't heard anyone bitch about their cdm 16g yet.

Cut the core support and tuck that intercooler. If you hit something up front, your car is going to crumple like a beer can anyway.
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