14B vs. 16G
05-31-2009, 10:50 AM
#2
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 165
What kind of motor do you have? It all depends on the motor..but the 16g should spool later, which will give you a little lag to drive around on the street without sucking your gas down to nothing. If I'm not mistaken I read on an eclipse forum that their 2.0L motors had a 16g spooling at 3100 rpms.
A 14b will spool quicker but lag in the top end, where the 16g will spool later but give you better top end performance. Its all in what your looking for in your setup, but personally I would go with the 16g if you have it.
A 14b will spool quicker but lag in the top end, where the 16g will spool later but give you better top end performance. Its all in what your looking for in your setup, but personally I would go with the 16g if you have it.
05-31-2009, 11:13 AM
#3
0.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 2
ide say the 14b is something to start out with, if you havent messed with either one before. Then when your ready and use to it, throw on the 16g. Ive only got a redline of like 6300 or something which is pretty low, and the 14b seems best for me since i mostly do city driving.
05-31-2009, 12:16 PM
#4
0.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 51
yeah its going on a stock 1.6 d16z6, and i just need opinion on what is a better turbo, for my application, ive also heard if you put a 16g cast hotside housing on a on a 14b it will give it better flow allowing for better top end
05-31-2009, 06:20 PM
#6
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 121
We've got a 16g on a dsm 2.0 The guy we got it from had replaced the original 14b with it. The 16g has an inherent design flaw, in that the wastegate port is at about a 90 degree turn, away from the main turbine inlet. This is the main cause for boost creep in these things. See, the exhaust flow would rather just go through the turbine than to make that turn. The fix is either porting at the turbine inlet and wastegate opening, coupled with a larger wastegate puck (34mm, from 28mm), or of course go external. We were experiencing creep to 20 psi from 15. If you think you can handle 20 psi, then this shouldn't be a problem for you. The 14b might really be the way to go, it should be plenty on a 1.6
Last edited by iceracerdude; 05-31-2009 at 06:24 PM.
05-31-2009, 11:55 PM
#7
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 214
We've got a 16g on a dsm 2.0 The guy we got it from had replaced the original 14b with it. The 16g has an inherent design flaw, in that the waste gate port is at about a 90 degree turn, away from the main turbine inlet. This is the main cause for boost creep in these things. See, the exhaust flow would rather just go through the turbine than to make that turn. The fix is either porting at the turbine inlet and waste gate opening, coupled with a larger waste gate puck (34mm, from 28mm), or of course go external. We were experiencing creep to 20 psi from 15. If you think you can handle 20 psi, then this shouldn't be a problem for you. The 14b might really be the way to go, it should be plenty on a 1.6
You can swap a 7cm turbine housing from a 16G turbo onto a 14B, however being that the 7cm housing is larger than the stock 6cm housing, it might hurt spool on a 1.6L engine. Most 6cm turbine housings however are cracked to crap and back though because they are OLD and have cracking problems. The parts on a Mitsu 1G that are problematic from cracking are the Manifold (right at the collector), the stock 6cm turbine housing (spider cracks around the waste gate flapper and around the bottom of the scroll, and the O2 housing can crack as well.
If your stock 14B 6cm turbine housing isn't badly cracked, I would start with that and then if you decide you can handle a tad more lag in exchange for some top end exhaust flow, swap a 7cm housing on to it.
iceracerdude - The 14B will do the same boost creep boogie as a 16G from time to time. I would not call it a design flaw because if you compare both, they are 90% the same design and are interchangeable for the most part. The turbo's don't creep to much with a stock exhaust because of the back pressure, however if you open the exhaust up, the turbo's are awesome and most of us lame-o mitsu guys just tune for the creep. When I ran the Evo III 16G, I would let that baby climb to 22/23 psi and then it would fall back to 18 psi up through the power band, no big deal if you can work with it. I can see the troubles however that this boost creep would cause if you didn't know how the engine and fuel would keep up.
If any of this sounds dumb, I'll admit now to having wayyyyy to many beers tonight for the stanley cup.
06-02-2009, 09:40 AM
#9
0.5 BAR
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 121
They all crack... and that 16b will blow a 2 liter over 20 psi. What are you trying to achieve with this little 1.6? You worrying about that housing makes me wonder, what do you think is going to happen at just 16psi with out more money spent on the rest of the engine?
06-02-2009, 09:42 AM
#10
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 214
The god father of DSM turbo's has this on his page -
Loosen and remove the BAND CLAMP (holds the housing to the turbo center section)
* After loosening the one bolt that holds it on and removing it, try prying the housing away from the turbo with a thin flatblade screwdriver - DO NOT twist the housing, there is a locating pin to hold the 2 halves together. If the screwdriver doesn't work, use a larger one, put it against the crack, and tap it lightly with a hammer. You can also use a chisel for this, as it may wedge them apart easier
* AS SOON AS the housing starts coming loose from the turbo, stop everything. Then slowly and gently move the housing to the driver's side of the car - do not wiggle it around, pull it straight off - you don't want the housing to hit the turbine blades
Then you just re-assemble the same way you took it apart but using the 7cm turbine housing from the 16G. It's pretty much a cake job.
