Re: welding
with all the money you spent on your build, you can't afford a ramhorn?
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Re: welding
Use a tooth washer on the head of the bolt & the nut, or a split washer on the nut.
Use longer bolts too. A lock washer will work great, but make sure it's an all-metal lockwasher. Nylon lock washer would likely melt & you'd be ---- up a creek. I've never seen a thread binder (a-la Lock-tite) work at high temps. I've never come in contact with one that was rated past 300-450*F. That makes those fairly useless on exhaust pieces. Maybe a muffler... Not a manifold/wastegate/turbo/cat. |
Re: welding
Originally Posted by LSD Motorsports
Another cast manifold?
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Re: welding
i used loctite on my turbo-manifold bolts after losing a few of them...worked great
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Re: welding
Originally Posted by BoosTedZSix
with all the money you spent on your build, you can't afford a ramhorn?
my boy have an inline ss manifold and never had a problem, and his turbo spools fine. but I am starting to see the ligh on the light on the tubular manifolds though. I did the research. and since this blox is pissing me off, I am gonna get the ramhorn,downpipe, and dumptube combo from RLD fab for $1000. thats after I sell a bunh of ---- on ebay. most people sell the manifold alone for $800, if I am gonna do it I am gonna do it right, cant afford full-race so thats the next best thing. thanks for showing me the way. |
Re: welding
Don't bother with anything less than a mechanically locking (distorted thread) nut. Split locking washers will lose their strength after a few heat cycles. Same goes for nyloc nuts. The nylon insert will burn out of the nut as soon as the manifold heats up.I don't know if I'd even trust a serrated lock washer for that sort of enviroment I'd suggest safety wire and castle nuts but I have no idea how much clearance you have to work with. Chemical locking compounds and heat....eh not the best idea in my mind for long term use. Just MHO.
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