welding
 

I am ------- fedup, tried to tune my car and I cant seem to get the ------- wastegate to manifold to seal, tried regular gaskets they burn out after a short time. bought sce copper gasket from summit, still have problem sealing, so I douldle them up it seals now, but I cant keep the bolts in, I drove for 10 miles and the bolts come loose, retighten them the keep comming loose, Ive been having this problem for a while, boost falling off because its not sealing.

so I am thinking of welding the wastegate to the manifold, blox manifold and tial wastegate, 2 different materials. tial is cast stainless steel and blox is some different type of cast iron than the regular ----. will a regular mig welder do this, clean, crack and leak free?

Re: welding
 

Try long bolts so you can put nuts on the back, lock washers, and locktite. If that doesn't work, you could always use the copper washers, but tack the flanges together in places where you can easily grind them off if you have to one day.

Re: welding
 

well said, i concur.

Re: welding
 

well 2 experienced welders, so should I just drill through the holes and put nuts and washers on the back from the inside? what if these come loose? turbo is fucked. I though I was gonna keep this blox manifold for a while but I guess its time to get an inline pro

Re: welding
 

If you're threading the bolts into tapped holes, just get longer bolts so they stick out the back, and put a lock washer and a nut on them. If you can get at it easily down the road, you could even tack the nut and bolt so that they can't come loose.

Re: welding
 

Another cast manifold?

Re: welding
 

since this ia blox manifold, which is very similar to the DRAG and RV-hard, you cant put anything on the back, i think the problem is you are using metals from 2 different sides of the spectrum and they are heating and cooling(expanding and contracting) at 2 different rates.

what i would do, i get some studs and stud the manifold, ---- if you have to drop freaking JB weldin there and thread them down in, although i am reall not sure if JB will hold up to cast heat.

if it is studded with some grade 8 studs and them put the gate on with some copper seal use some lock washers on the top and you SHOULD be good to go.

i think the size is M8x1.25 for that bolt/stud

Re: welding
 

I use lock washers. they holes are not drill all the way through so its not gonna work with a nut.
the reason why I like cast mifolds better than fabricated manifolds is that they last longer, and everyone want too much money for the tubular manifolds, I am in Germany so there arent any resources to do it on my own, and I dont want to make a mani with my flux mig. so cast iron looks more natural and gets the job done. in this case maybe not

Re: welding
 

sounds like your in denial and your manifold sucks ass. with a build like that your manifold is the last piece of ---- id ever run.

step up to the plate son.

Re: welding
 

in my opinions all that hype about ramhorn and top mounts are overated, if I could afford one yes, but since I cant I say ---- it.

Re: welding
 

with all the money you spent on your build, you can't afford a ramhorn?

Re: welding
 

Use a tooth washer on the head of the bolt & the nut, or a split washer on the nut.
Use longer bolts too.
A lock washer will work great, but make sure it's an all-metal lockwasher.
Nylon lock washer would likely melt & you'd be ---- up a creek.
I've never seen a thread binder (a-la Lock-tite) work at high temps. I've never come in contact with one that was rated past 300-450*F. That makes those fairly useless on exhaust pieces. Maybe a muffler... Not a manifold/wastegate/turbo/cat.

Re: welding
 

I have had the stainless cast Inlinepro mani for over a year and I have never had bolts come loose. My friend has the rev hard mani and the wastegate bolts come loose and least once a month.

Re: welding
 

i used loctite on my turbo-manifold bolts after losing a few of them...worked great

Re: welding
 

thats the point. if I spent my money on the engine I have none left to buy $1000 manifold that dont allow ps or ac, even though I dont use ac. get what I am saying.
my boy have an inline ss manifold and never had a problem, and his turbo spools fine.

but I am starting to see the ligh on the light on the tubular manifolds though. I did the research.
and since this blox is pissing me off, I am gonna get the ramhorn,downpipe, and dumptube combo from RLD fab for $1000. thats after I sell a bunh of ---- on ebay.
most people sell the manifold alone for $800, if I am gonna do it I am gonna do it right, cant afford full-race so thats the next best thing. thanks for showing me the way.

Re: welding
 

Don't bother with anything less than a mechanically locking (distorted thread) nut. Split locking washers will lose their strength after a few heat cycles. Same goes for nyloc nuts. The nylon insert will burn out of the nut as soon as the manifold heats up.I don't know if I'd even trust a serrated lock washer for that sort of enviroment I'd suggest safety wire and castle nuts but I have no idea how much clearance you have to work with. Chemical locking compounds and heat....eh not the best idea in my mind for long term use. Just MHO.