stick welding
#1
stick welding
i have a miller stick welder that has low and high modes and a a big gauge that shows ur amperage. im using 7010 rods and they seem like they dont wanna work. like they always either tick to the metal and wont break free or itll work great and ill start laying a decent weld and it will just stop or stick to the metal. are the sticks just damp? or could be that the metal could be contaminated?
#2
Re: stick welding
Originally Posted by raiden571
i have a miller stick welder that has low and high modes and a a big gauge that shows ur amperage. im using 7010 rods and they seem like they dont wanna work. like they always either tick to the metal and wont break free or itll work great and ill start laying a decent weld and it will just stop or stick to the metal. are the sticks just damp? or could be that the metal could be contaminated?
Also, to get an arc going, you need to strike the stick gently over the working surface, like a match.
#5
Re: stick welding
It's all about practice. Turning the heat up will help keep it from sticking, but there comes a point that it's too hot and difficult to control the puddle.
In early stages of learning, turn it up hot and as you develop the skill to control the rod, you can turn the heat down to a level that will be better for welding.
oh...and excesive spatter is one of the biggest symptoms of burning hot.
In early stages of learning, turn it up hot and as you develop the skill to control the rod, you can turn the heat down to a level that will be better for welding.
oh...and excesive spatter is one of the biggest symptoms of burning hot.
#7
Re: stick welding
pick up some 6011/6013 rods, and a chipping hammer. ANY STICK WELDS CANNOT BE WELDED OVER until slag is chipped (read on). the new bead will just ---- over the slag and not stick for ---- it sounds like you might also be welding glavanized... fence post charge pipes again? wire brush (preferably steel brush wires..) the surface before welding, and after chipping slag, also possibly youll need to grind the surface before arcing if in fact you ARE using fence post..
ALSO. look into a heavier amperage electrode holder. preferably a nice 200amp copper one, the heavier weight will give you less hand twitch on the end of a full length electrode. it kinda sounds like your amperage is too low to begin with... crank it up a few or look for a smaller rod (5/64" instead of 3/32")
ALSO. look into a heavier amperage electrode holder. preferably a nice 200amp copper one, the heavier weight will give you less hand twitch on the end of a full length electrode. it kinda sounds like your amperage is too low to begin with... crank it up a few or look for a smaller rod (5/64" instead of 3/32")
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