Tom-Guy

I'M NOT YOUR GUY, BUDDY!


zc

Scott-EP

flanges and pipe are cheap. i would just make another one that is like 2' long for tuning

Boyko

I have been dragging my *** on this, it is getting close.

I tossed a longer track under this thing, went from a 121 with a 1 1/4 lug to a 153, 2 1/4


Here is the pump I am using to return the oil from the turbo

The can is for size referance

Never drink and weld........................................... in the bath tub

Cheers






I added a hunk of tunnel from a Polaris I had laying around





I made up a extra heat exchanger out of some left over parts and looped it into the turbos water jacket.................. my welding still sucks ----, I do not spend enough time fitting and prepping.






I made some tunnel braces out of 1/4 al plate, it took a long time to mill them out and it really sucked sitting in front of a mill for 9 hours with a sunday hangover







Here is the piggy back controller for the efi it has good size 3d tables in it and will add or subtract fuel and timing with boost referance. It can switch maps on the fly and can studder the engine for a holshot which is good because the turbo is a long ways from the pistons on this thing.





Still lots to do but should be on the seat soon

Cheers

Scott-EP

good stuff. i was wondering about this the other day

BigBird

awesome tunnel brace it looks ****. can't wait for some vids of this thing there is tons of snow now.

98ctr

looks good.

we were going to put a trubo on my buddys quad, but instead we opted for a gsxr 1000, with a extended frame and extended rear swing arm.

HomeMadeTurboz

I know that there is enough snow in the edmonton area to ride now, just barley, but enough for vids none the less

Boyko

So I was roughing in the tuneup on the low buck Attack, had it on a track stand and was getting it in to boost. Lots of stuff to watch, it looked like low 12s on the air fuel and around 12 psi boost at 10,000 rpm which all sound pretty and nice. I fired it up the next day and it ran like crap and had a ticking sound from the top end. Pulled the plugs and did a comp test and # 3 was dead, nothing there.

I just got the head off and it dropped a Ex valve but looks like the valve locked in the gide and did not bang things up to much at all.

I am missing a stem lock....WTF, the shim and the other stem lock were sitting under the lifter cap,

This thing has got 1200 km on it and was wrote off not that being wrote off would cause it to lose a stem lock.

I will look again for the missing part but why would this happen? Did Yammy send the motor out a little light?

Should I just toss a new valve in it and run it? I will take some measurements from the deck to the piston to see if it is crunched up.

t_cel_t

damn 5 valve

with the stem bent that bad it might have fucked the guide

Tom-Guy

+1

There's a really good chance the bottom end is fine, but I'd check it all the same. Also, is it just me or is the valve relief on the piston where the valve dropped a little chipped?

Uhm, is there anyway to loosen the valve lash on the exhaust side? I ask because that looks like a solid special-order bucket and not a shim under bucket design, which is common on something that spins to the moon like that. Bottom line the exhaust valves bear the brunt of the thermal load in the engine and the valve lash can go away real quick, you might want to see if a machinist can grind 0.002-0.003" off those suckers so the valve has room to expand into. Keep in mind I could be completely wrong, so inspect your valvetrain closely for signs of wear/scuffing on the base circle, etc.


Otherwise, good job. Every new setup has teething problems as shitty as this, and the total package is badass. Fix her and get us vids!