sixsick6

He clearly said " I had a 48/60 with a 2.5" downpipe with flex section hanging off the manifold." hanging being the key word there. A big problem with aftermarket manifolds or cars that don't normally come turbocharged is that they don't have provisions for any type of bracket/brace to hold the weight of the turbo assembly which weigh 15~20 some odd lbs. Regardless if he had a flexpipe installed or not, some of the forward/backward rocking of his motor has to go somewhere. If his mounts are bad then his motor is swaying more than it normally would. Being that it's now turbocharged, he is adding to any force on the mounts themselves and adding to the force that the engine normally has. What I'm saying is that without any type of bracketry holding/bracing the turbo to the motor so the whole thing shifts as an assembly, you have two different parts shifting at different times. Add in heat and the weight of the turbo assembly to the mix and you've got a recipe for disaster, hence the cracks in the manifold. Any aftermarket turbo that I've ever installed on a car that wasn't normally turbocharged, I've always added some type of brace for the turbo itself so the whole thing rocks in unison regardless if the mounts are bad and become worse from the newfound torque and higher hp. The part about "hanging" got to me but you're a good man for replacing his manifold even if he could have prevented the cracks himself with some type of HMT bracket to block to block to turbo.

Another thing about cracks- They don't always give you tell tale signs of leaks/noise. Case in point cast which more or less seals itself when it warms up.

hotrex

well ham\dling this mani personally and youll see that there is no possible way you wouldnt have heard this bad boy leaking. also, explain the markings around the neck of the mani that sooo look like chain rub points.

daubleaaron

You are really stuck on making it look like I tried to pull the engine up through the bay by a chain around the exhaust manifold.
when you "drop" a motor do you take it out through the top or bottom of your car?
Do you take the exhaust manifold off before you drop the motor?

When I pull a motor which ive done noumerous times I take the intake and exhaust manifolds off. On my single cam I put a chain inbetween one of the lower dizzy bolts and one of the exhaust manifold studs. Then lower it to the ground, unhook the chain and lift the whole ------- car above my head on the lift and there, the engine is sitting on the ground.

You are trying to make this out as me being a noob who doesnt know what he's doing, fact is I know my way around an engine very well, I have been tought well from some amazing people and im currently in school full time to be a technition. Mabey I could have braced the turbo to the block, Im going to see what I can do about that once I get my new manifold. But the fact is I dont know of many people who use braces on anything but ssautocrap manifolds.

Anyway, Im sick of this. Hotrex I think your a douchbag, goodday sir

hotrex

aaron it is what it is, dude, i wouldnt lie about what i saw, where did those marks come from?

daubleaaron

what marks? Do you think I was trying to hide something when I took like 10 or more pictures of the manifold and put them up for everyone on hmt to see?

And I wouldnt lie about how my last engine was extracted from my crx.

fact of the matter is a ------- idiot would leave the exhaust manifold on the engine, hook a chain to it (manifold being the furthest thing forward in the engine bay) And try and pull the engine straight out the top of the engine bay.

I however am not a ------- idiot and I have access to a complete schop with a full lift and engine hoistes. I have years of experience with honda's And help from my grandfather who has been the sole mechanic to his 20 some odd tractors and 8-9 vehicles he owns, he also restores old tractors, My father who also grew up on a farm around machinery, was a jet engine mechanic and use tobuild and race go carts and build v8's for a living. Im not new to this and Im not a ------- idiot.

it is what it is

accordepicenter

this is why i rock a mild steel mani

hotrex

ill take some pics of the marks, you can be the judge of them.

i dont care if you have the best shop int he world. tools dont compensate for lack of common sense //

sixsick6

Next time put a brace for safe measure regardless if you think you need it or not and you'll likely save everyone involved a headache. The guy who made your manifold the first time seems to be a stand up guy and seems to have no problem making you a new one regardless of what caused it.

Thats the way you do business, even if you get fucked in the *** a few times.

FastLS

It does't take a rocket/tractor/V8 guru to abridge all knowledge and make a mistake. There will always be nay-sayer, deal with it.

I think is the early welding by CS combined with instal/extraction error on top of wear and tear. The welds probably weren't the best, but they held. It wore down more and more through use on top of the extra weight and rocking of the engine and what not. Which all cluminated during the extraction period in which it cracked open.

Engloid

You guys are ignoring the fact that, if the manifold was made well, you could have lifted the entire car with it....granted, the studs would pull from the head first.

I'm not trying to make out like the manifold was a POS, but it really shouldn't have broken even if it was used to lift the engine out.