My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

I've been wanting to try this for so long. My origional idea was to use a wg and feed my second scroll that way.

Then I thought of something like this
http://www.machzracing.com/Maxima/QSV/P1020193.JPG

But this was two years ago. And I would have to build my ---- around some big pile like that.
I dont have the room as it is
https://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c...s/DSC06533.jpg


Then I saw a thread here a while ago, and somebody posted a quick spool valve that was built into a t4 flange. I thought ---- me!! That is so simple, but I dont even have room to bolt another flange between my turbo and manifolds. So rather than cutting my flange off and replacing it with a split type. I found another thread with some guys turbine housing he put a flapper inside of.

Money!

So, tonight I started on this. Here is what I have so far.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...s/100_1701.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...s/100_1702.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...s/100_1703.jpg


I'll control it with a wg actuator. Something weak, and then play around with it.

Still have a bunch to do, this is just what I go done today. Pretty excited, should be sweet. Or an epic failure, in which case requires me to weld up two holes.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

i would do more then just those 2 rosettes

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

I know... I said I just started. I just tacked it on lightly incase I decide to pull that flapper and do something different.

I should have posted this in the thread like, three threads below. ----... i'm a tard.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

Looks good.
I only see one problem with using a wg, because the hinge on the flapper is in the middle, and will have equal force on both sides of the rod.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

Depending how long an arm he attaches it won't matter.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

f'n genious. Is the flapper assembly stainless and does that even matter if it is?

What are your guy's thoughts on how to seal the ends, or if that even matters.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

good ---- noob

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

O few things come to mind. First of all is everything everyone else have mentioned how do you plan on stopping that ---- from leaking? I think alot of exhaust cutouts use brash bushigns to maybe you could bore the housing out more and then put a brass bushing in and run the shaft through it. Im assuming your not using paired housing ? So its not blocking off a set of runners lol.

IM not sure where you could get the brass bits, maybe use some brass valve guides and use th actual valve as the rod? That way it will fit perfect. Do u think valve seals would be up to the task of dealing with that heat?

Another thing what about thermal expansion, the rod could expand more than the cast mani and seize.
Other than that, ------- awsome.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

The wg, i'm not sure about just yet. I need to find one to use for starters, and then I can piss around with it. Depending on the throw of the wg plunger, I'll have to the base the length of my valves control arm around that so I actually spin the valve 90 degree. I am kind of worried, that I might have to use a very short control arm in order to get the ratio right and...I dont know how strong wg's are.. I'll have to see. I'm kind of pecking at this as I go.

And for sealing the rod. That one I am kind of wondering still, actually I really dont know. I have the hole size about .146" and my rod is .145" diameter. Oh, its not stainless either. The rod is 4140 and the plate is a good question.

I dont want to use brass since I figure I might have issues. My shaft I figure might expand .0011" at 1200 degrees, the turbine casting I'm not sure about.

But brass expands so much ------- quicker. I've been wondering if it will cause the shaft to seize at first. At .000014 per degree vs steel expanding .0000064" per degree, I've been thinking the brass insert will squish its self out round and I will have more problems than just leaving a tight fit between the shaft and the housing.

I'm open to ideas... As for now, I'm going to try and find my self and waste gate and think about it.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

awesome idea! i'm glad to see someone tackling this.. please keep us updated.

also, I really don't think that tiny bit of exhaust energy leaking would hurt much considering you will be making up for spool time with half the A/R initially.. I mean hell, you'll be venting the wasted energy through the wastegate before the shaft leaking would ever begin to cause problems.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

That wont leak ---- all ;). I guess its a home made variable vane turbo lol. The series 4 RX7 runs a similar setup standard in the cast turbo manifold if you need some ideas.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

Yeah, i'll probably end up leaving it and seeing what happens.

In the mean time, does anybody have a little wg actuator you dont need anymore? and preferrebly....dont want money for :y

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

I bet you won't even notice a leak.

One idea that came to mind to reduce leak was to take a thicker rod, lathe (I think it's the right verb) it except for a portion at one end and tap/thread that side and its matching hole. The hole on other side should not go through all the way, but be just a seat for the other end of the rod. Then you'd insert it, screw it in all the way and weld the flap on it. I doubt you would have any leak at all.
(Sorry I'm italian and don't know the right tech words.)

Anyway, I'm looking forward to the completion of this project.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

I was thinking of something similar but your way saves some room I may try this sone. >:D

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)
 

Alright, got it pretty much finished today. Just said ---- the shaft, I'll see how it works out. Might leak a ton, might not...

I need to figure out what spring to use in the wg too. It had a 4psi spring in it. But I was concerned it might be too strong, feeding a couple psi of air pressure into the thing didn't seem to do much. I want this thing to open up pretty quick, or at least have the option of adjusting when it opens.

Anyway, ------- around with the lever ratio was a bit of a task too. Hense all the holes. At first it would only open 45 degrees, but now I've got it opening 90degrees on the dot. Its perfect, again another concern though is if it will actually be strong enough to open with the gases pounding down on it. we'll see......
Attachment 10015
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture002-7.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture006-2.jpg
^^^ its ------- close to that pulley, I am going to have to cut the bolts down just to make sure it never vibrates into them lol That would be a ---- show for sure...

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture007-3.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture008-3.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1..._Picture-4.jpg
^^ a little clip. Not sure if you can see anything, my monitor is typically pretty dark, so that may be why its so dark.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

****This is the wrong section for that.*****
David

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

you did not need to post the pron, just making something this sweet is enough.

what would be cool is to have a turbo so big that you can spool it on one runner but having the second runner open bogs it, no wastegate needed, similar to a variable vane turbo

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

What you've done is killer but the porn itself, I only I actually seen 1 dirty nude girl. But with porn plus productivity I'll give you a 9 outta 10 just because you've done something we've been wanting to do.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

This not the porn section or GD; it is for fabriation!

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

What seals exhaust from leaking down the rod / housing seal?

Car not sounding like completely dogshit > dropping the boost curve a couple hundred rpm.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Ahh ----, sorry about the ladies. Thats why I didn't post any nudes, I've seen some threads with some porn so I wasn't sure if it was "ok" again or not.

I dont think I could really get upset about a little exhaust leak if this does actually work. I've always been a little more sided towards function over asthetics.


t_cel_t Thats an idea!

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Cool idea that is simple and well executed.Now slap it together and report results O0

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

yep, we need a spool report and a leak report

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

In for the updates ;)

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Fab forum used to have porn

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Yeah, maybe its cause I didn't have NWS in the title. Oh well.

Anyway, still have some ---- to do to my exhaust and intake. Fix a few leaks in my tranny. Then it'll go back in and I'll be able to test it out. I will definitely post up, dont worry :y

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

makes me wish I didn't sell my 18cm H1C :(

I couldn't even spin that thing at idle with my 1.6L

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Not anymore. We have a section for that.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Trust me, as boost rises above 4psi, it will open faster & faster. However if you leave it the 4lb spring in, it will open at 3-5psi, and build boost much slower. You want to find the happy medium where it builds boost fast, but also doesn't make lots of backpressure. You should put a MBC on the line set for half of your target boost pressure for the motor itself, then use your butt dyno (or a real dyno) to adjust it. The only problem I see is that external WG's, especially chineses stuff, doesn't really have a seal around the valve shaft. You will have a little boost leaking from that point. Normally exhaust pressure pushes back enough to prevent a leak; actually it can sometimes push harder and cause boost to taper off.

If you want to seal the shaft well, cut the far side flush and weld a plate/cover over it. On the other side for mine, I plan on using a cap stuffed with 1800F ceramic insulation to seal around the shaft. It will function like a rope seal around an outdoor water spigot's valve stem.

Just don't blow your motor up right away. I really want to see this thing's potential! I know it works, but there's such little data on it.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

See I'm just kind of apprehensive about that spring... Since in its regular form, it would have the 50-60 psi, or however much of exhaust helping the wg push the valve open.

But controlling a butterfly, I'm just kind of weary you know.

Especially since yeah! It does leak a bit around that shaft in the wg. BUT... Its not going to see that much heat. So, I should be able to seal that thing up remotely easy.

But i had thought about a boost controller. And actually, I was also going to try using a hobbs pressure switch thats activated at 3-4psi, and then I have a burly 12v air solenoid I can use too.

Thanks for the tips!
Definitely get some help and good ideas here, I posted on one my local tuner sites and to my mere surprise they're a bunch of retarded assholes that... just dont get it. I was told I should have just used nos rather than wasting my time lol

Funny.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

setting the spring a pound or two under your wg seems like it would be the best way without reducing ability of the flapper or choking your ---- up

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

Actually I didn't think of the backpressure opening the valve, but its not as bad as you might expect. When you do the math regarding the area the diphragm & valve each have, 2psi pushing the valve up requires 1psi on the diphragm to counteract it. You'd also only see 50-60psi in a newer volvo with stock where they use a GT17 on a 5-cyl or whatever the motor they use. A PR or 2:1 is more what you should expect - 10psi intake = 20psi exhaust. What all that means is your spring would probably open at 1.5x the rated spring, 2x at the most. Your little bit of air you tested with is not enough since you didn't used a regulated source with constant flow. That's how the engine provides it. If nothing else, cut the spring - they are sompressed by half their height inside. Just don't pinch the cheap CDM diaphragm when you reassemble it.

As far as concerns of gas flow not letting it open or pushing it open, butterfly valves behave in a way that negates that. Like a lever, one side wants to be pushed 'open' as much as the other side is pushed 'closed'. It also doesn't stop ALL exhaust flow (just half), and has a little pressure behind it. It will not be an issue.


To whoever said to use brass bushings, 2 issues. 1) Bronze melts just above the temps in question. Red-hot bronze isn't a great idea for a bushing. 2) bronze busings are what are used for cutouts, and even the dry graphite-infused ones are only good for 500F. He's dealing with ~1500F gas that's also pressurized. Its also powered pnumaticly, so there's no issues with burning out a motor.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

I beg to differ bronze with high levels Cu melts at above 1000deg F and at the foundry I work at we have to get well over 1500 deg F to get flowing as a liquid and some engineered bronzes have to pour above 2200 deg F.

I really do not think it will leak much if there is tight tolereances between valve shaft and cast turbine housing.

Re: My quick spool valve project (pics)-Pretty much done
 

in for updates

subscribed

awesome

Update?

what happened to the pics?

nice

Sorry, I haven't been around here for a long time. And a few months back I decided to finally organize some pics in photo bucket, thus ------- up links.

Here are the pics again. Plus a vid of it working.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...r/100_1702.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...r/100_1703.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture001-3.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture002-7.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture003-5.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture007-3.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture008-3.jpg
http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture009-3.jpg


The first bit and last part of this vid is just fluff since I needed to get in and out of my car to turn the camera on. Could have edited it out, but what ever. Just shows the valve open as it boosts.

http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c1...cture013-1.jpg

I dont know if I wrote this in here or not, but the way I wound up controlling it was with no spring at all, and I relied solely on vac/boost pressure. What I used to adjust it was one of those bleeder style boost controllers you get off ebay
http://www.made-in-china.com/image/2...roller-003.jpg
I have it backed almost right off, so that you can barely blow through the hose to open the valve. It makes the valve open smoother. With it adjusted so the valve opens quicker, you get a big jolt in power.


So, It has worked all year. I checked on it once a few months ago to see if its melted. But it was good, soon here when I park my car for winter I'll take the turbo off again and see if its still in decent condition or not. I am pretty happy with it.