honda-chaser

warpage is gonna happen but agian this set up is not gonna be all draged out...just a basic simple turbo set up on the stock internals....I am not worry about the melting, its not gonna happen...and its not gonna get that hot...but maybe warping but who cares...its a prototype, I just have my buddy make another one using differnt types of metals...free is good for me...me not worry...

turbof22a

what do you mean its not going to get that hot? have you ever looked at a pyrometer before? one pull and that thing is going to ---- itself. if you go lean even once your egts will hit ~2,000* but since you got this under control im just going to sit back and wait for the "my adapter plate melted" thread.

bearpaws1973

depends on the alunimum, your heads are high silicone aluminum pobably 356 castings and they aren't melting. pistons, have good longevity, 4032 or 2618. The military 7000 series aluminums with great success (near jet engines). The melting point may have been 1200 when initially casted, but then are treated with other elements to gain the qualities needed. I would suggest though if it isn't of the high silicone type (4000 series) have him make you one out of steel. The problem I see is loosing your seal and getting an exhaust leak pre-turbo, which would eliminate the quick spool that smaller snail will give you. (good luck)

honda-chaser

Losing the seal is something I was gonna see...I did find a ball bearing turbo the other day in the junk yard, a crappy, and shot one but I am gonna swap the interals around, and rebuild it. About the aluminum is one of those casting which I was told by a buddy of mine. He told me its the same that military use and its very expensive...He would not make this if he knew it was gonna melt, sounds right to me. I guess he knew whats up, and at least somebody out there knows there aluminum.

bearpaws1973

Should be cool. Good luck. Post up how it works for you. If you aren't seeing a few lbs. of boost by 2400 rpms you're probably leaking. I personally don't see an issue

turbof22a

i dont give a ---- run it man its you ---- that will get fucked up. why do you think no one makes flanges out of aluminum?

honda-chaser

I know where you coming from, I have built a couple turbo cars, and raced them...The first thing I said to my buddy was regarding about the meltage...I am concern about it to you know, yes not many out there are made of aluminum, well one is the price. This plate that has been made here could of cost me a hunderd of dollars or more according to my buddy thats has a master in egineering, and ex military. I just hope he knows whats up. And also this is just a prototype, who knows it can be the best thing that ever happen. There only one way to find out. Run the ----, test the ----, and break the ----...and get the results..........as of today I started to change the internals on the turbo to a ball bearing.
to be continue.....

turbof22a

well i hope it works out for you but keep an eye on it you would not want melted aluminum in your fres bb turbo would you

TurboRiv

The water jacket protects the heads. You can boil water over a open flame in paper cup. The cup won't burn till the water boils out, it absorbs the heat and keeps the paper at 212deg F. Aluminum is also good at moving heat away from source. That is why you see heat sinks made from it. The Pistons run cooler then the manifold. "Pistons operate at average temperature of 600deg F." (Turbocharging Performance Handbook p.21

"Because of aluminum's poor high-temperature strength and high heat transfer coefficient , rule it out as a suitable material for an automotive exhaust manifold."(Maximum Boost, p.119) He then mentions an exception for boat manifolds with water jacket.

Google search shows 7075 used in jets and M-16 starts to melt a 900deg F. Highest melting point i could find for Aluminum alloy was 1210def F. Material spec. Sheet for 7075 aluminum suggests forging work at 700deg, and 'warming the material to 200 - 250 F will assist form-ability.'

The temps will be well above that. Take for example these to quotes from LC-1 WBO2 manual. "The maximum temperature of sensor should not exceed 500deg C or 900deg F." "Install the bung downstream of the from the turbo...the high exhaust temperatures encountered there can damage the sensor." Note that sensor is damaged at same temp as 7075 starts to melt.

"If everything is working properly, 1250º to 1300º F. is a safe turbine inlet temperature, even for sustained running"(banks power tech article 'Why EGT is important') Diesels run cooler exhaust then gas engines and those temps are still way to high for aluminum.

It would probably be better if it was a drag car. The aluminum would heat fairly evenly and the run might be over before the metal heats up to exhaust temp.

josh19wrc

even if it doesnt melt, the thermal cycles you'll put it through up near the creep point are going to destroy it.