myshtern

Hey stealthmod, quite being such a critical -------.

James, by stitch, you mean a left - right weaving motion right?
Lately i've been doing a pulsing method, only instead of pulsing the pedal, I lift and drop the torch.
How did that back and forth method work out? I know the RMF header guy is full of ---- on a lot of stuff.

- Alex

sgoertz

Yes sir a left to right motion is my normal stitch method. I havent had a chance to give the back and forth method a try yet.

Engloid has posted on here and if he could chime in I might be able to get something better.
Even if not, I try and keep people informed of how I am doing, I mean hmt helped us in a big way
so why not try and help back. I will give welding tips to anybody that asks even sometimes without
asking, (right hotrex )
Overall I am trying to remain a pretty cool guy that stays somewhere on someones friend list,
it isnt like I have gone off and made millions at making log manifolds I am just trying to say
I am a normal person like the rest of yall.

If my prices ever seem high, and you feel like actually talking to me I always try and help out the underdog.
I dont have cut throat prices like some companies, I try and stay within the reach of the adverage joe.
I have gotten now where I put alot of time into my products really, I am really trying to stand behind them
if you pay $300 shipped for a log you will get $300 worth of work (ports match flawlessly now, welds that wont
ever go anywhere, something that looks pretty good, and some one that will back the product up if anything ever
happens) I really cant afford to drop the price on my stuff commercially but if you can get me on aim, phone,
etc I can work a deal no problem.

sgoertz

O well I guess it is in stealthmodes nature to rag on me afterall, he was
the first one that pointed out my pvc charge pipes when I first got started


(long story short for the new guys:
When we were first geting started my first turbo car
93 civic ex coupe d16z6 turbo, we built a cnc machine adapter plate
for the hf to ihi rhb5 turbo, we had no welder and no idea on how to weld
so we did the most ghetto rigged setup hmt has ever seen with a set of
pvc charge pipes and aluminum foil, b&m fuel pressure regulator for
fuel management set at 65psi static pressure, and no intercooler)

MikeJ-2009

PVC charge pipes have always been off the hook.


I don't have an agenda to dislike you or what you make. I was just wondering where the logic was with this post. Your welds look great, and I haven't seen better on this site. That's why I was asking who you wanted to grade your welds. I've seen Engloid over on HT more than I've seen him here.

It doesn't have anything to do with what you make, your prices, wether you help the underdog or not. Just asking.

myshtern

Dude forget about it. I like seeing other people's welds so that I have something to compare to. Even if he is just showing off, it strikes relevant conversation. Engloid got banned from HT btw.

James, so have you ever tried the up and down motion like a pulse?

sgoertz

The only pulse I have ever done was pump the pedal and that is on my thick schedule 40 stuff
This log

Was done with pumping the pedal, I used 3/32nd filler rod here 180 amps at the pipe to flange and at wastegate elbo and 150 amps at 90 to T.

-James

sgoertz

When I am building manifolds again monday I will give your move the torch up and down a try, do you move it away form the work and closer to the work or do you do it by changing the weld angle from the 15 degrees to say 45 and back?
-James

myshtern

Well, I havent praciticed it too much, but I wanted to get a straight up and down action going. Often though, I found myself almost at a 45 degree angle. I would just wait until I got the puddle and immediately move back for it to cool, then progress forward. Then I would slip into what you are talking about where I would just change the angle of the torch. I only did this on mild steel so on stainless it could very well be different, but my problem was that by changing the angle, the torch would pre-heat the area in front of it. So by the time I got there, the steel was too hot and it would puddle almost instantly.

Attached is a diagram of what I am talking about.

Do you not bevel your steel forcing you to weld at such high amperage levels?
You backpurge, right? Can you give me some details on that?
Where are you located?

edit - why dont one of you lazy *** mods move this into the fabrication forum?

sgoertz

The only thing I see potentialy bad about what you are doing by picking the torch up and down could really only be seen on stainless as ms will always have the grey weld even if it has color it will only have color for 5 minutes then it goes grey, but with that I have noticed if I have my torch to far away from the work the arch isn't good and concentrated and ends up heating up an area as a hole (very simular to changing angle where it preheats).

On thick schedule 40 I bevel my parts at aprox 30-45 degrees and leave a 1/32nd land, for the thin 16 guage I havent done any beveling at all as it is so thin to begin with I am worried of blowing holes if I do bevel.
On thick parts that I don't wish to get a bead on the inside because of it being massive overkill (log manifolds, pipe tubulars) I dont purge as it is a big waste of money and to get 100% penetration on massively thick schedule 40 you get the hoz so big that you weaken everywhere around the weld by a good deal and it is now pointless to have purged to begin with (note I dont gap either so this is a big reason it takes so much heat for me to get 100% penetration)

on my thin tubulars a I always purge as I can move fast and keep the hoz to a minimum (in this pic it is big but most of the time it is usually no more than 1/8" from the weld) and I always get 100% on the 16 gauge stuff.

There are many sure fire ways to get a perfect gold color whenever you are done with your work, one way which I have found works all the time but is pretty ghetto is while the bead is hot take a brass wire brush and brush the weld, the bronze melts at such a low point that it will adhear to the bead and have bronze look now, I only did this once by accident as I was cleaning the material I was about to weld and the weld behind it had the hole part heated up enoguh, I had accidently grabbed the brass brush instead of the stainless brush.

-James

hotrex

hey james, ive been fuckign around with some of the things you told me, im now coming out with this...



im seeing improvement everyday, is my 3/32 tungsten holding me back? i notice lots of ------ are using 1/16. i use 1/16 filler rod btw.

that weld was at 90 amps with a 18cfm gasflow. and 1/4 hanging out of a number 5 cup.