Scott-EP

you are on the right track. i never messed with the heat treating when i worked in the machine shop do i cant give any insight there. you are right on everything, just make the threaded rod as big as it can be and still fit through the bearing and make the plate that acctually moves the bearing as big as it can be and still fit through the steering knuckle

Zeniceguycrx

the hard part of doing the bearing isnt taking out the bearing

you have to hammer out the spindle befor you can remove the bearing, a lot of time the bearing housing comes off with the spindle. It can be a pain in the *** to get that off the spindle. as far as removing the bearings you an just use a mini sledge and a round peice of steal in on the bearing. make sure u use safty glasses because the bearing housings can splinter off when u hit them

Scott-EP

also, do you have access to Kroill? it is the best penetrating oil i have ever used. spray that on the spindle to get it out of the bearing

Turblow

I honestly dont even know how or where the spindle goes/attaches to the bearing

Can someone explain that to me?

Sounds like I'll be using a huge damn bolt and not heat treating it

What all is going to have to be removed in order for me to do this swap?

Scott-EP

take the wheel off. then the brake caliper and bracket. after that the rotor. then the cv axle nut. remove the cotter pin and nut for the tie rod and then seperate the tie rod from the steering knuckle(special tool needed here).then do the same for the lower ball joint and and upper. then the knuckle will slide off of the cv axle and you will start trying to get the spindle out of the bearing. then remove whats left of the bearing(if the bearing is bad it falls apart most of the time). then clean it all up and press new bearing in and repeat the process in reverse. did i miss anything? i havent done a honda bearing in a couple years

Turblow

Excuse my non automotive terms

After I take off the rotor, I'll be staring at 4 wheel studs and the plate that there installed in, is that plate pressed into the INSIDE of the wheel bearing? Thats the hard part? I can make a pin to hit that out to I guess

As for the dis assembly, Ive taken off tie rods before and axles and ----, but only to do swaps, so Ive never taken off the top balljoint.

I dont think it has to come off. Obviously the axle has to come out so the bottom balljoint has to be removed, so I take that one out, pop out the axle, then REINSTALL the lower balljoint into the lower control arm

THEN I can go ahead and have free eccess at this bearing?

I dont see why id remove the top balljoint unless I wanted to bring the assembly to a bench or something, in which case some more things would have to be removed

Scott-EP

it will be a lot easier to take it all the way off. i wouldnt try doing it on the car. you will just **** yourself off

the top ball joint is just like the bottom

and yes, you are right about the spindle

Turblow

Would I have to do the brake lines if I took this whole thing off? That was the point of making it lol so I didnt have to take everything off

When reinstalling the bearing, can it be lubed on all surfaces?

Any special reinstall tips for putting the spindle back inside the bearing?

Zeniceguycrx

look at the manuel thats on here it tells u how to do it

8secivic

omg not trieing to be a dick but sounds like u need to just take the car to someone that can do it for you...