idiot-stick

I got a little air compressor now and a die grinder.

Here's the situation:

I got a stock exhaust manifold, cut off the runners but they were welded in such a way where part of them are still in the flange. I need to port out the openings in the head flange to match the gasket.

what the hell are the name of the bits I need to remove metal with a die grinder? I feel like a retard asking.

Oscar

carbide?

Cray91

I am also a grinder noob. It would make sense though that you could go to a quality hardware store and tell them what you are doing and they could hook you up with the proper bits. Seems faster than asking ppl online.

stenseltizm

You would think, but anymore it seems people that work at a hardware store (or any store) just know how to wear an apron and run a register/stock shelves. Less and less actual knowledge of the products they're sellin can be found. I had to go to 3-4 places looking for a bit that could handle stainless, they were all clueless so I went to McMaster and was done.

<-- also a grinding noob

idiot-stick

I'm in no hurry and I live in SC...not the smartest people around here.

Guy-Fast

carbide. Good ones are pricey but will last a lifetime. Better have a good compressor has grinders take tons of air



I prefer an eletric die grinder. But use what you have.

Guy-Fast

also you going to want a porting kit has well for clean up. Dont cheap out a kit will run around 50 bucks but will last forever and just nice to have

AMkrew

Chris is right. Little compressors just won't cut it. Look into an electric die grinder with a 1/4" chuck. They can be had on ebay for fairly cheap, I think. I have a compressor with about 7.5 scfm @ 90 psi, and that just isn't enough. Grinders do use tons of air.

Also, some tips on when you do get the carbide cutters (or rotary files, as some still call them):
SPIN them fast. As fast as the grinder you're using can go. When moving slow, they tend to dull quickly on stainless. It has something to do with the size of the "bite".
USE EYE PROTECTION!!! IT HURTS BADLY!
Always move the cutter on the piece in the opposite way of rotation, as in it rotates clockwise, so move it down onto the piece, and move the cutter left. Hard to explain. Reason is, sometimes the cutter will "walk" on youif you don't, meaning it will "bite" and move quickly in that direction, causing damage to whatever you're working on.
Watch out for others in your work area, these will throw metal particles at high speeds for a short distance.
After roughing is complete, use what Chris mentioned, the porting kit. It includes different size/shape/grit sanding rolls/drums. They allow a nicer finish presentation. Not needed, but you know...
-josh-

Bone1

Metabo Grinder, 700 series.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Metabo-Variable-...QQcmdZViewItem

Then figure $20-25 per bit if you want them to last.

Guy-Fast

Eye protection and a mask when you do clean up. Last thing you want is a mouthtful of aluminum




Bosch makes some nice die grinders has well. Or if your poor harbor freight