93hatchturbo

Ok, I decided to clean this up a bit. First a bit about the car.

Heres my bitch. I exploit her, I beat her, she's purpose built. If it turns out sorta pretty then no complaints. I drive it hard, ---- $10,000 paint jobs.

1st day this year.




old 10 bolt with panhard bar. new 12 bolt is in with panhard bar


front suspension.


wet bitch.


car show.


Start out as a bone stock 72 Chevelle malibu from my grandfather(he bought it brand new). 4 wheel drums, 350, turbo 350 tranny, 10 bolt, power nothing, 1 speaker am radio.

I first put true duals on it, rebuilt the heads, cleaned them up, slapped a cam, LT headers, and some carb adjustments and ran it for a year. Also had S10 ZQ8 wheels on it(the 5 spoke style)

I then installed the following within the next 3 years(all major suspension was done winter of 06). I put some on in the winter, drove it a summer, took it apart that winter, and drove it a summer, etc.

Engine: - 2003 Chevrolet 6.0l. 364ci. “Throttle by Wire”
- 2002 Camaro Hooker Super Comp LT headers
- Harness modified by Wait4Me Performance.
- All emissions and torque management removed

Exhaust System: - Magnaflow 3” Stainless Steel Mufflers
- Custom 3” exhaust by Tim MacNeil

Fuel System: - Tanks Inc intank walbro 255 pump w/ mini sump
- Stainless Steel Braided fuel lines assembled @ HoseHead Quarters

Cooling System: - 4 core high efficiency radiator re-cored by Hi-Tech Radiator
- Lincoln Mark VIII Cooling fan
- Delta Control, fan controller

Transmission: - 2003 GM 4L80E
- B&M Super Cooler Transmission Cooler w/ fan

Electrical: - Low/High headlights on relays
- Complete M.A.D. electrical conversion (firewall forward)

Steering: - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Power Steering box 12.5:1 Ratio
- Heim joint outer tie rod ends
- Bump Steer adjusters

Suspension:

Front: - Coleman Racing Fabricated 9” Impala spindles
- Impala hubs, bearings, seals and dust caps
- SPC Performance fully adjustable upper control arms
- Afco Racing steel/nylon lower control arm bushings
- VariShocks revalved by Alston/Chassisworks, 16 position adjustable
- Braced and Strapped factory lower control arms
- 650lb rate springs
- Speedway Motors “tall adjusters”
- Factory small block sway bar

Rear: - 12 bolt. Limited slip w/ 4:10 gears
- Speedway Motors axle side Panhard bar mount
- Custom frame side Panhard bar mount
- Panhard bar made w/ AllStar hex tubing w/ QA1 Heim Joints
- Lower Control arms made w/ AllStar hex tubing w/ QA1 Heim Joints

Brakes: - 2003 Cadillac Escalade Hydroboost brake assist

Front: - Outlaw Billet Aluminum 4 pot calipers
- Wilwood Caliper adapter
- Impala 12” rotors

Rear: - BAER 12” rotors
- BAER single pot calipers w/ park brake

Wheels:
Front: - 2004 Corvette Z06 17” x 9.5”
Rear: - 2004 Corvette Z06 18” x 10.5”

Tires:
Front: - GoodYear Eagle F1 Supercars 265/40/17
Rear: - GoodYear Eagle F1 Supercars 295/35/18

Wheel Adapters: Custom machined by Trevor at Colecraft.

Interior:
Gauges: - Complete Defi Gauges mounted in custom bezel
Shifter: - B&M Pro Ratchet Shifter
Seats: - Megan Racing
Transmission Tunnel: - Custom fabricated by Greg @ HD Ornamental Iron Ltd.

Hair Dryer combo.

- Turbonetics t76 with f1 wheel
- JGS 56mm bov
- Tial 38mm gate(for now)
- 60lb injectors
- stainless hot side and cold side
- extreme turbo system built v mount intercooler

Here are a couple shots of the car.

old wheels.


First year with engine in the car.



Dash.


At a show.


Eh.


Near the end lol.


From the rear.


Just a plate to mount a lsx flange to if I decide to make my own manifolds some other time.

sohcpwr

looks good!

you'll have a much easier time welding in between the runners than us honda boys. im kicking my self in the *** for getting a lift-arc tig welder now.

93hatchturbo

It IS for 2 hondas. god.



nah. lsx. hehe

LSD Motorsports

Looking good man, couple of things though:
1) I hope you already cut the undersides where runners 2 and 3 are tacked, that will be extremely tough to get to after the fact.
2) I highly suggest using a good drill and bimetal holesale with good lubricant in place of the plasma.

Might be a little more time consuming, but its a lot cleaner and much harder to make a mistake with. Not to mention a little less hazordous to health. What i mean by that is in order to prevent all the slag falling in the manifold, you should use a special anti-slag spray, but once you burn that stuff it leaves a very nasty layer of crap that really smells everytime you weld the manifold.

either way, good luck.

Dive_Miguel

Looks clean, have you considered cutting expansion slots between the ports? It may help the life of the mani during heating/cooling cycles. I would have tried to make individual runners so that the exhause pulses are more separate, but hey, at least you are making progress, I am procrastinating on making a mani for the 2jz...keep us posted.

jinxy

those look like some high dollar flanges :P

93hatchturbo

canned this idea. might aswell delete this post. lol

klyph

Use a hole saw the same size as your runners, just put the center of the hole straight up, center the hole saw over it and as it cuts down, it will form the same "oval" you drew, unless you crushed the runners.
Expansion slots: after you get it all welded up, slice the flange wherever there's a bolt hole between the runners. Probably not neccesary.

93hatchturbo

its more oval then you think though. The primaries are not straight shots. They are 45's facing forward so the exhaust gases are not going straight out and smashing into the log(they are, but not nearly as bad as a straight shot)

klyph

O, then you made it more of a pain in the dick to gain a negligible amount of flow :1

jk, plasma those holes out and get welding!