03 r1 turbo project finnished
 

it took nearly two years but now its done and all in good working order.
here are some pics if the build and the all important dyno resultsAttachment 2853

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awesome. good job. you almost came close to my hp/tq numbers on my 02 gsxr 1000 turbo build. i would love to see some riding video......

i have made some changes to the system recently.. bigger charge pipe and new plenum so i am hoping for some more power i will post results when i get it to the dyno]Attachment 2932

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what did you do for fueling?

i used a begi and a pc3...works well up to 8 psi

i used a pc3. whats a begi?

its a rising rate fpr.theoreticaly it can give suitable fuel enrichment without the need for a pc3.but using both means some road testing can be done before the dyno...which is vital for a first turbo project as there is a lot of trial and error:y

gotcha. i used a begi(fmu) on my second turbo bike build. for my third turbo bike build i use the stock fuel system and the pc3. got great results with 6 psi boost. 225hp and 125ft.lbs.

thats cool. what bike was your 2nd build..
on the face of things my dyno results look ok but i was running 8 psi and needed water inj and -2 ignition to stop det ...the power off boost was crap aswel.
with my new setup i am hoping for about the same hp but at 5 psi and stock timing.
its all done up and running now so just waiting for some dry weather for a test ride then off to the dyno

both my builds were 02 gsxr 1000's. the fmu build was too much of a hassle and it affected reliability. the second gsxr build i didnt touch the stock fuel system and it made a big difference in power and reliability. ive never had an issue as long as i kept the boost at 6psi or below. any more than that will require upgraded engine internals, upgraded engine computer, upgraded fuel system and an intercooler/meth/water injection. you start to get into the higher priced components. 6psi or less is more than enough to scare the ---- out of you so thats all i build. i didnt do any major timing adjustments on my builds. it was all stock timing except at higher rpm range. i adjusted the timing to 1 degree retard just in case.

i also turbo'd a 2005 gsxr 600. that was by far the most fun to ride out of all my turbo bike builds.

it seems i might have gone i a bit over the top on the fueling setup..its so hard to get good honest and relyable advice on build requirements..lots of people have said that a stock fuel system cant handle more tthan 200 hp and the internals cant either. but we have both proven this to be bullshit..also i have heard that a pro tuner said on the r1 turbo tuning database that 03 r1 tbs simply wont work with boost...bollocks..
i have an external 6 bar fuel pump and the fmu which havnt given any isues yet but i suppose if you run fuel pressure at nearly doubble to stock when on boost something is goin to give sooner or later.
when i take it for the tune i think i will turn the rate of gain right down and use the pc3 for fuel enrichment....oh.... what charge pipe diameter have you gone with.
have you seen this site www.bike-turbo.com there are some interesting builds there.

i use 2" charge pipes on all my bike builds.

what was his reason for saying the tbs wouldnt work?

is the r1 fuel system a return or returnless fuel system?

the gsxr fuel system is a returnless fuel system. most returnless fuel systems have stronger fuel pumps then a return style system. either way i have never ran into any issue with fueling on any car or bike that i have boosted 6 psi or less.

if you have a return fuel system a better alternative to an fmu is a 1:1 boost referenece fuel pressure regulator. it will hold your fuel pressure to your desired setting during natural aspiration and then it will raise the fuel pressure 1 psi for every psi of boost. it makes tuning a bit easier.

i personnaly have never turbod any other bike but a gsxr as it is the easiest bike to turbo but my suggestions above should give you no issues. as far as boosting above 200 hp, im not sure where that guy got that info from but you definitely proved him wrong. with less boost and a better tune you could easily exceed that on your setup. i would recommend not going over 6 psi as reliability suffers and dollars invested start to climb.

also i would definitely lose the fmu setup. you will be better off.

as far as fueling being an issue. when i turbod my 02 1000 i had the pc3r. at that time i had my own inertia dyno so i was doing all the fuel adjustments on the fly. the most fuel i had to add to the pc3r map was 40% more fuel than stock at 6 psi. the pc3 was able to add alot more than i needed and that was with the stock fuel system.

the only disadvantage with the pc3 piggy back is it cant be tuned to read a larger map sensor which would greatly improve driveability and power. unfortunetly, the only way is to tune with tps and rpm. a larger map sensor would allow the capability to tune for load which can change all the time. this type of tuning would require a standalone computer. cha-ching!!!!!!!!

the r1 is a fuel return system which complicated the build a bit cos there is an inline restrictor in the return line which made fuel pressure raise to 120 psi when the fmu saw boost...scary....it took ages to suss this out and remove the bastard. that pro tuner was probably just some dick who knows lots about nothing.
i didnt know that returnless pumps are often more powerfull.or that returnless systems even existed..
the learning goes on and on..
glad some hater hasnt hijacked this thread yet an trashed everything said.
you mentioned putin a vid up...that is a bit sketchy for us brits cos a few guys have been sent down for putting self incriminating videos on the net recently. the fuzz round here are cunts ..if you get caught doin a wheelie at 0ver 100 mph you will do time .and they will confiscate your bike and loose your licence for about 2 years...

damn!!! 120 psi. scary is an understatement.

most of the newer bikes are using returnless systems. the returnless system has the pump, filter and regulator built into one unit. instead of fuel being returned from the rail, it is returned from a valve at the pump. it just makes thing easier. returnless fuel systems usually have very good high flowing pumps as they usually run at higher pressure.


definitley dont self incriminate youreself. same laws here. 20 over the speed limit is considered reckless driving. doing any wheelie of any kind reguardless of speed is considered reckless driving. drivers license can be suspended for same amount of time and who knows how much money in court fees it would cost. if you do decide to do a video then wear a helmet and remove or install a device that hides your license plate. they cant prosecute someone when they dont know who it is.. :)

so the bike is all back together again.i am runing 6 psi with stock ignition timing with the bleed screw on the fmu all the way in minus 1 1/4 turn....it feels stronger than the old setup .there isnt any lag.boost builds at 6500 and it pulls like a freght train to 10000 where it feels like the torque peaks then keeps lullin to the red line

that sounds about right. my 02 gsxr 1000 turbo peaked tq at 125ft.lbs @ ~8500 rpm and peaked 225hp at ~10,500 rpm. from 10,500 to 12,000 rpm the hp dropped slightly. at my peak tq i was adding ~40% more fuel than stock and at peak hp i was somewhere around 30% more fuel than stock.

got a problem with boost gauge...it flutters and spikes ...i thought vdo where a good make..thought the problem was cos the signal hose was too long or in the wrong place but the isue wont go away..might go back to the cheap chineese crap cos it seemed to work well

you need to supply the boost gauge with a vacuum signal from all 4 throttle bodies.

it takes the signal from 1 and 3 tb,s...2 and 4 feed the water inj and fmu. thats how it has always been and it used to be fine . it only started to flutter about a month ago.i have bought an inline damper off egay, if this doesnt work i will try to link all four tb,s
???

using the vacuum signal from all 4 throttle bodies is more accurate otherwise each component will get a vacuum/boost pulsed signal.

there is no point trying to bypass good advice . i will link them now and ride tomoz. if its no better then we can assume the gauge is shagged. if i link them with some with some tee,s will it work or do i need a manifold

i used tees

waitin for the weather to clear before i can do a test ride its snowing and minus 5 ...boost and snow =pain.
put some pics up anyway

some pics

thats the great thing about florida... it was 85 yesterday....

looks good.... great way to master the wheelie .... :)

the connecting of the vac hoses has sorted the twitchy needle on the boost gauge so i can say its ready for the dyno ...just need to get some money together...
it needs doing before the 17 feb cos i have a track day booked at cadwell park...cant wait.. this bike will piss all over any litre bike;D

1/4 mile track or road course track? i assume a 1/4 mile track as a road course track is not recommended.

look it up on youtube .the mountain jump is scary as ----..

here is a linkhttp://youtu.be/z6TOkdAFvBo

thats crazy!!! you better wear a diaper.. just in case!!!!!!! :)

any updates on this build?

still havin boost controll probs .want it sorted before i get it mapped.think its down to length and diameter of wastegate signal hose.changed to 6mm id,as short as possible.also running a 6 psi spring.i was using a 3 psi and a bleed valve to up the boost to 6 but it wouldnt hold steady boost.hopefully a ride tomoz will show some improvement...
got a camera so i will post a vid when i work out how to use it;D

result.!!
without the boost controller and with a 6 psi spring it holds steady boost. it seems the boost controller disrupts air flow to the wastegate giving an uneven signal..need to find a good cheap controller now

where are you getting your boost signal for the wastegate?

the signal is from the compressor housing..the problem is deffo the boost controller cos without it the boost gauge needle is rock solid...

run the boost signal from the intake plenum. its more accurate and responsive. boost builds up from the plenum and travels to the compressor so there is a slight delay in the opening of the wastegate. this will also cause a sudden boost spike.

cheers for the info mate.... i will try that...could i take a signal from the throttle boddies

yes but you need to take the signal from all 4 throttle bodies.

do you think there would be any noticeable difference between a signal from the plenum and the tb,s