FooK

I am having troubles with this and stuff not reading correctly. I think it may have to do with what it reads as far as voltages go.

Using the PLX settings with a -.02 offset, it seems to be correct around 15:1 AFR, but it progressively reads more and more incorrectly as it gets further from 1.00 Lambda.

The other thing I've noticed, is that when I completely back out of my throttle, the most Crome will read is 1.36 lambda, while my Zeitronix logger reads all the way to 1.48 lambda

Also someone on pgmfi.org said the lambda of the FJO was similar and might work, but it didnt.

SO

Here is a setup from a pgmfi.org member, along with the actual voltage chart for the zeitronix, I am really hoping for good results here, so we will see...



The last value you don't see in this list is 3.27 Volts 1.440 Lambda


Attached is the voltage chart in Excel ------sheet format, remove the .jpg from the file for it to display correctly

Tom-Guy

Where are you drawing power for the wideband from?

Stock ECU can only take in 3.8 volts via 0-5v wideband input... wherever 3.8 volts is on your wideband's output is the max you can read via ECU. Mark Lamond has a nice page, linked in the wiki.pgmfi.org under ECUHardwareMods, to how to beat your ECU into submission with the addition of a few simple parts so it takes the full 5v like a good little ****.

FooK

power source is from the cigarette lighter, suggested that way by Jeff for mobility.

I'll look at the hardware mods thing, see if that will help.

Tom-Guy

Resistance across the system will cause wideband readings to skew, usually richer as the rpms go up. Is this what is happening?

BTW, don't ever trust the cigarette lighter. Ever. I had a guy's cig lighter, with shoddy ground, find ground through my laptop's USB shield. Laptop wouldn't charge except with the USB cable connected... fried my wideband and a ROM emulator. Run good thick wire out the window to clips on the battery... if you are keeping it portable you're already running the line to the wideband sensor this way.

FooK

I haven't had that problem in a couple years but now you've got me paranoid thanks

My next plan is to get an obd1-1 harness and tap most of it in through there, so I can get it real portable and easy to use.

I tried some of the settings I posted up above, they're pretty close but still off a little when i have the lambda offset at -.09

fast2camciv

you know im having the same issues with my lm-1

when i set the offset while its idling it seems ok but as im tuning it seems the difference between crome and my lm-1 are more pronounced...like at idle they are very close, within a half a point....but at like 11.5:1 on the lm1 crome will be up to and sometimes more...than a point different than the lm1.

and also do you guys reset your offset everytime you tune? like even on my car where nothing has changed...ill tune on it one day and set my offset and then if i close crome or open it the next day my reading is off and i have to go through and match the readings using the offset again......i dont think i should have to do that should i?

Tom-Guy

The grounds change between cars, as well as over time. This is what causes the discrepancy. You need to verify every car every time you go to tune.

sohc_mshue

i do the same with clips on the battery when tuning cars and it works great unlike the shitty cig lighter. I've also noticed that afr's dont read to close to what they should be at WOT in uberdata/crome with my plx and lm1 wideband units. I've started to use WOT parts of the map trace to just give me a general idea of what cells it was hitting and then rely on the wideband display.

FooK

well if i ever stop blowing up ignitior coils, maybe ill finish tuning my car.

Tom-Guy

What is an ignitor coil??