idiot-stick

I took the solenoid apart and it was clean as a whistle. Hooked it straight upto 12v and i could hear/feel it clicking just fine but i still can't "feel" it engaging. Shouldnt it tear my face off, i mean it IS VTEC after all.

But seriously. Next step, im going to wire in a switch to interrupt the 12v output from the ECU so i can toggle it on and off while in the vtec rpm range.

I've got the wire that is supposed to go to the AC Clutch powering the solenoid. That puts out enough amps, right?

zex_cool

yup

z1guy

+1 vtec-e FTW

Slo_crx1

LOL...that's funny Biggest noticable difference I've ever seen when vtec stops working on a single slammer is after 5k rpms it doesn't really want to pull at all. If it's a pretty smooth pull right up to 7k then it's probably working.

SpankedYA!

I couldn't hear my single cam go into VTEC. I know it was because there was a very slight change in tone but with the boost its very hard to notice.

z1guy

w/ certain exhaust you will hear a change at crossover due to the differance in airflow and all at vtec.

Zeniceguycrx

you wont here it on that,

leed

IMHO, the *** dyno cannot detect a single cam crossover. vtec on only the intake side, and its not really that big of a TQ change like a B series.

idiot-stick

Running TE, so none of that fancy ODB1 check.
Pan has a small dent ~3mm at the bottom, I dont think it's causing any problems. I would like to get an oil pressure gauge on there.

Found a MAJOR boost leak and car is running good now. Power seems to pick up around the VTEC engagement point so for right now I'm gonna assume it's working.

When i get some time, im gonna hook up an oil pressure gauge and hook up a switch to the solenoid so I can fiddle with turning it on/off.

Thanks for the helps