JYU

I have a b16a2 turboed... I seem to be bogging/stumbling once in a while, I think mostly between 2-3k rpm. Also, I can't seem to keep my check engine light from turning on. I think it's just an O2 sensor code and it turns on at idle after a few minutes. I have 310cc injectors,8:1 fmu, 255lb fuel pump. I'm just learning about the vafc, so I could use your help! These are my settings currently.
WOT Narrow
1k: +1 -13
2k,3k: -6 +1
4k: -8 -1
5k: -9 -1
5.5k: -6 -6
6k: -8 -6
7k: -4 -1
8k: -6 -1

VTEC L-->H 5400 H-->L 5200 V/T unmt:0%
Throttle point low 15% high 55%

civicvtecb16a

first of all you dont need a FMU and a VAFC and 310cc injectors!

you need to pick what you want! either,

1, VAFC and 450cc injectors,

2, FMU with a 12:1 disk and stock injectors

the fmu that you have is way to small for the B16A!!also fmu's are ----! so dump it in the bin and get some 450cc injectors and dyno tune with the VAFC.

also with the 450cc injectors a good baseline for the vafc settings is low, 1k to 8k = -36, and high 1k to 8k = -36.

Matt

JYU

I know most of you use the 450cc's. I originally purchased those and was planning on going that route, but 3 shops that I got advice from around here convinced me to go the route I went. I'm pretty much stuck with what I have for now and am looking for a way to make it work. Asking for ideas...?

bambooseven

make sure and tell us how it worked out when it is done. I'm curious as to what will happen

thermal

dude, with your set-up all u really need is a set of DSM 450cc injectors and a resistor box which will probably cost you between $40-75. Your car will run way better. It's worth it man. Tuning an AFC with a check valve on the MAP is hard. You can proabably sell those 310 injectors for the price of a set of DSM 450's. Peace

Rick

Look i cant help because im new to these,but i can tell you one ting here all trying to help everybody, the shops they don't rely give ---- about you sure they act like they wan to help you because they need to sell.

JYU

My car seems to run fairly well, it's just that check engine light that's bothering me. Can I lean out my afc settings so that the 310cc's are close to the stock 240cc's? So I mean set it to close to -20% at narrow throttle? And if that works, which rpms should I be able to set at that -20% without worrying about the fmu or boost to mess things up?

d16tuner

I think your best bet, depending on how much boost you want to run, is to scrap the fmu and just use the injectors. Those are good for about 30% more fuel than stock, so I'd say somewhere around 5 psi. If you are running around that much, save yourself some headaches and get rid of the fmu. If you need to run more, use the dsm 450s you bought if you've still got them, or rc/lucas 440s or at least 370cc injectors which should mathematically be good for ~7psi. As far as the cel, have you checked the code to verify what it is? Are you still running the same settings you originally posted? How much boost are you running? What is the cel, for sure? You are going to need to provide some more info I think.

JYU

But I thought that fmu's only do anything once in boost. I'm not having any problems when in boost. Most of my problems are in the light driving off of boost. So wouldn't the fmu not even be considered as the problem?
I'm running between 8-9 psi by the way. As far as the CEL, I'm pretty sure it's an O2 sensor code. I've leaned out the settings at narrow throttle below 3.5 rpm, but I still have that CEL popping up. The bogging has seemed to be better though, and still no problems at idle. I appreciate the replies so far.