Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
#1
Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
Yup, guess it's not fixed after all. At least it stays idling longer than it did before, but after I set the base timing to 16*, it'll run for about 30 seconds and then die again. It seems to be struggling to even keep a 650rpm idle, even though I set my bin to 800 rpm. I tried adjusting the idle screw, and it's pretty much all the way out and still does this. After all the crap I dealt with before, I said ---- it and stuck my stock map sensor in, but I noticed on my vafc2 that at idle it only reads around 9.9-10in/hg for vaccum, and my guage is reading almost 17in/hg. WTF is up with this? If I rev the motor and let off the gas real quick the afc will jump to 12.5in/hg but won't go further, and the guage will show at least 19in/hg on decel. But if I go into the sensor check the map and tps voltage seem to be fine. The map sensor is putting out roughly 1 volt at (rough) idle, so I'm not sure if that's right or not. Any more suggestions?
#3
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16
Originally Posted by ososlohatch
try switchin your tps wires
#4
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16
I got it to run and idle, plus a small controlled vaccum leak at my boost controller helps a little. I took the car down to get an alignment after some suspension work I did, and was having some issues with part throttle bogging and bucking. When you stomp down on the gas it takes a second, but then clears right and hauls *** into boost. Could I have a problem with too much fuel/timing or not enough? Only thing I can think of that I did that could be making my life hell with all this is the walbro 255lph pump I tossed in. Ever since I put that thing in the car has just been plain difficult to get running right.
#6
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
255HP pumps can jack your idle fuel pressure TO THE MOON, ALICE! I run the big outlet LS/GSR OEM FPRs, they work great when the wussy D16/H22 ones hunt at idle with AFRs all over the place. Alternately, you can drill/modify your existing FPR but I've never liked that, you have to cycle the key twice before cranking to build up rail pressure and if you don't crank immediately the fuel pressure all goes away.
Are you using Crome, yes? Check pgmfi.org, they finally released a version of 1.2.5 that has real working IACV control. You can stall the engine or make it idle at 2000 rpms from your laptop. Good stuff.
Boost/vacuum gauge vs AFC disagreement - I could care less. Most mechanical boost gauges are cheap junk people think are awesome because they overpaid for them, and no electronic gauge reads better than it's grounds.
Sounds like you need tuning, bro.
Are you using Crome, yes? Check pgmfi.org, they finally released a version of 1.2.5 that has real working IACV control. You can stall the engine or make it idle at 2000 rpms from your laptop. Good stuff.
Boost/vacuum gauge vs AFC disagreement - I could care less. Most mechanical boost gauges are cheap junk people think are awesome because they overpaid for them, and no electronic gauge reads better than it's grounds.
Sounds like you need tuning, bro.
#7
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
255HP pumps can jack your idle fuel pressure TO THE MOON, ALICE! I run the big outlet LS/GSR OEM FPRs, they work great when the wussy D16/H22 ones hunt at idle with AFRs all over the place. Alternately, you can drill/modify your existing FPR but I've never liked that, you have to cycle the key twice before cranking to build up rail pressure and if you don't crank immediately the fuel pressure all goes away.
Are you using Crome, yes? Check pgmfi.org, they finally released a version of 1.2.5 that has real working IACV control. You can stall the engine or make it idle at 2000 rpms from your laptop. Good stuff.
Boost/vacuum gauge vs AFC disagreement - I could care less. Most mechanical boost gauges are cheap junk people think are awesome because they overpaid for them, and no electronic gauge reads better than it's grounds.
Sounds like you need tuning, bro.
Are you using Crome, yes? Check pgmfi.org, they finally released a version of 1.2.5 that has real working IACV control. You can stall the engine or make it idle at 2000 rpms from your laptop. Good stuff.
Boost/vacuum gauge vs AFC disagreement - I could care less. Most mechanical boost gauges are cheap junk people think are awesome because they overpaid for them, and no electronic gauge reads better than it's grounds.
Sounds like you need tuning, bro.
#8
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
Ah. I haven't played with BRE since it's very early days, I hear it's come far. It wasn't too shabby when I touched it, everything was very stable.
Block off your FIT-V and your IACV, turn the idle screw all the way in and then back out a half turn. Set your idle either at or 100-150 rpms below where you want it by fiddling the throttle stop. Use the idle screw to fine tune. Now you can tune your idle; smaller injector cars idle best at 14.7:1, you can almost do it by ear. Bigger injector cars (low Z 750-880+) have muddy injector opening events and poor spray patterns and idle best at 13.8:1 or so... if the car isn't idling terribly well it might be hard to do a good job smoothing the idle since basemaps go and get themselves all sorts of fucked the further you try and take an injector recurve. You can trust a stock O2 to read true at 14.7, though, so you should be able to do idle and part throttles via datalogs, you just lose resolution when you swing too far one side or the other of stoich. Make small changes and you'll be fine.
I'd have no problem tuning boost 6-8 psi with no wideband, but it takes a minute. Read plugs, be conservative with the timing. If she doesn't pull clean and smooth, if there are any signs of heat or detonation on the plugs then you don't need to beat on it. FYI, xenocron has some sweet deals on LC-1.
Block off your FIT-V and your IACV, turn the idle screw all the way in and then back out a half turn. Set your idle either at or 100-150 rpms below where you want it by fiddling the throttle stop. Use the idle screw to fine tune. Now you can tune your idle; smaller injector cars idle best at 14.7:1, you can almost do it by ear. Bigger injector cars (low Z 750-880+) have muddy injector opening events and poor spray patterns and idle best at 13.8:1 or so... if the car isn't idling terribly well it might be hard to do a good job smoothing the idle since basemaps go and get themselves all sorts of fucked the further you try and take an injector recurve. You can trust a stock O2 to read true at 14.7, though, so you should be able to do idle and part throttles via datalogs, you just lose resolution when you swing too far one side or the other of stoich. Make small changes and you'll be fine.
I'd have no problem tuning boost 6-8 psi with no wideband, but it takes a minute. Read plugs, be conservative with the timing. If she doesn't pull clean and smooth, if there are any signs of heat or detonation on the plugs then you don't need to beat on it. FYI, xenocron has some sweet deals on LC-1.
#9
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
Duhh...I forgot all about the throttle stop. I'll set the idle the way you said, hopefully it clears up enough tomorrow for me to do this (just looked outside and it's snowing ). So far I've been adjusting the idle (once I got it to keep a steady idle) according to the sound of the engine, not to mention the afc fiddling has helped in giving me a rough estimate of too much or too little fuel vs. idle speed and engine sound. I can see/smell it in the exhaust as well once it warms up, having no cat on the car helps out a bit...sounds weird, but I can tell for some reason by the smell whether it's rich or not. I'll give it a shot and see where she goes. I think I'm going to keep timing around .85*/psi retard if not a hair more depending on how it sounds with the det can. Even at 1*/psi it pulled very well, much better than I originally thought it would. As far as the fuel for the basemap, I pretty much set compressor efficiency at 120% in BRE, and when I compared it to the bin you had posted for BRE on Xenocron's site (b16/t3 60trim) it wasn't much different. The turbo's only a glorified 14b with a 7cm^2 exhaust housing, and I was pretty happy to see boost threshold at 3k rpms. It's not going to be a monster power setup, just a fun street car...I must be getting old lol.
#10
Re: Still have idle problems with my b16...now part throttle
Ok JD...I set the idle like you said, and she runs beautifully. Hell, even turning down the fpr helped out quite a bit. It was no wonder it was stumbling so badly...took a look at the gauge and it was reading almost 70psi fuel pressure with the vaccum line off I turned it down to around 43psi at wot and even that smoothed alot of things out. Kinda makes me feel like an idiot, but I haven't had alot of time to actually sit down and fully check/adjust everything. This weekend looks like it may be her maiden voyage other than the occasional pass down a back street, gotta take it for inspection so I'm going to pack my laptop and burner just in case.