HiProfile

A "16timer" using an AM29F040B 4mbit chip and a 16-possition BINARY-ENCODED switch. Can be used in any ecu that can use a 29C256 chip, and 128/512 chip ecu's if you cross your I's and dot your T's.

Its very simple and cheap to make. As long as you follow the diagram, use the BAT file code, and a binary switch ("real" hexadecimal-encoded), it will work perfect. The picture shows the parts needed - four 10k resistors, a 32-pin socket, twenty-seven header pins in a single row, 16-possition switch, a small section of proto-board, and 1st aid if needed (I always burn myself). Then whatever tools you use to cut wire & solder, plus a little bit of motivation.

I only had 28-pin sockets, so I hacked an extra up to make a 32-pin socket. The only thing that's not very obvious is how I delt with the ecu's Vcc pin (+5v DC) being right below pin A17 on the chip. I cut the header pin short so it only contacts the copper proto-board pad, folded the socket's pin over and soldered a 30ga Kynar wire on it, then passed it through the board 1 pin over.

Now for the BIN-building - its very simple. To make the BAT file, just make a new TXT file, paste the code below in it, then rename with a .BAT file extension. I have it set so I can just add a letter/number in front of the BINs' names to make it quick. So your "0bin1.bin" is for possition #1 (0 on the hex switch's face), and "fbin16.bin" is possition #16 (F on the hex switch's face). I have them backwards in the file because I used a hex switch that uses the 'real' layout; you'd have to swap the order if your switch uses the 'complementary' layout. To make it simple, just build the big BIN with 15 working bins, then for the "F" BIN use one with double the fuel. Start in any possition besides 0 and F, then turn it to those two. Following what I have here ('real' layout), your engine will sputter on possition "F".


rename x4mbit.bin.ol2 x4mbit.bin.ol3
rename x4mbit.bin.ol1 x4mbit.bin.ol2
rename x4mbit.bin x4mbit.bin.ol1
copy /b f*.bin+e*.bin+d*.bin+c*.bin+b*.bin+a*.bin+9*.bin+8 *.bin+7*.bin+6*.bin+5*.bin+4*.bin+3*.bin+2*.bin+1* .bin+0*.bin x4mbit.bin

Pictures (sorry, no pr0n, I'd bet this will be linked to)












To test this, I used my trusty P28, Crome Pro, and my faithful beater (OBD1 d15b2 w/d16z6 manifolds). The first attempt sucked - I forgot to solder the main ground for the switch! Then I found out my switch needed the bin built backwards. I haven't tried bins with differences besides the fuel/ign maps, do so at your own risk. One last note - you can use switches with 2, 4, 8, 10, or any number of possitions. BUT - you need to figure out yourself which ones you want to use.


PS - post here if you have a question. I don't read my PM's (unless it's your MOM).

HiProfile

BTW before any of you nig-nogs ask "wtf would I need this? I already have a *****!", well I thought this would help save time if you street-tune the car yourself (or think your tuner sucks), and can load it with 16 maps with more/less timing to find the best results - w/o spending $500 in dyno time fubling around, burning a chip or even loading the bins & uploading to your ostritch.

I can also see doing this for using E85 and being forced to mix X-amount of E85 with regular gas. A rough estimate, a few clicks, and you're in business.

ifly87

Nice! daddy like.