lc-1
 

Ok I am having problems changing my outputs on my lc-1. I am trying to change both outputs to a wideband so I will have one for my gauge and on going into my ecu for dataloging. But I change the values and hit program the screen will not update with the new values. Then I start my car up and It is stuck at 15.1. Has anyone else had this problem? Do you have a fix? Should I have not purchased the lc-1? It all worked fine till I opened the program.

Re: lc-1
 

Do you need to calibrate the outputs after you switch them? Meaning voltage range and or gas/diesel.

Re: lc-1
 

Star oven man.

Pull the sensor out of the exhaust
disconnect the sensor from the controlle
power up the controller for about 15 seconds.
power doiwn the controller
connect the sensor and power up the controller.
Wait for the status LED to turn solid
Open up LM Programmer.
Set your values
hit the program button.
Close LM Programmer
power down the controller
wait for about 20-30 seconds.
Power up the controller

See what happens form there.

Re: lc-1
 

Doing all that but not waiting 20-30 seconds. I can always fix the problem by re doing a heater and fresh air calibration. What version of the lm programmer are you using? I have read on the innovates forms that some versions are not so good.
Thanks.

Re: lc-1
 

I just want them both to be a wide band output one for my gauge and one for my ecu so I can data log it. The stock setting are one wide band one narrow band.

Re: lc-1
 

I am using the latest version of LM Programmer.

I have not reset my analog outputs in quite some time, but I always had to wait for a bit after programming them and powering down the controller in order for the settings to take.

Re: lc-1
 

Nice ok Thanks.

Re: lc-1
 

Are you using a computer with a serial port, or are you using a laptop with a USB to serial ------- failure converter? If the latter, do you understand where I am going with this?

Re: lc-1
 

The serial connection with MY IBM T20 is way more stable than the Radio Ripoff serial to USB converter I had been using for several years.

Re: lc-1
 

T20>all other laptops except for my T61 - with the exception of when I have to use a serial connection.

The T61 with ATEN, Radio Slack (Gigaware), and Belkin USB<->Serial cables works great on AEM EMS and Megasquirt. It telnets into UTEC correctly and allows me to do keystroke changes, but if I load maps or parameters via Transmit File is fail fail fails. Microtech LT-10 I have to unplug the USB side of the cable every time the ignition is switched off or else I can't reconnect. Bigstuff3, no go. With Hydra Nemesis... nevermind, Nemesis doesn't work correctly because it's a piece of ----. I have variable success with LM-1/LC-1, JAW, etc, other DB9 connections.

My T20 handles everything except for the Nemesis, but only idiots buy those anyway so who gives a ----.

Re: lc-1
 

so a T30 with serial port for $100 shipped would be a deal????

Re: lc-1
 

I seriously love this thing. It kills my other laptop which is an HP piece of garbage. This damn thing is solid as a rock. I just wish it had one more built in USB port. Maybe I'll get another spare ECU some day and setup another tuning rig.

The Thinkpad needs a new battery though. 20 minutes isn't really enough time to get much accomplished. I have an inverter to run it off of for the time being.

After wasting money on a cheapo charger, I am afraid to waste money on a cheap battery for it. IBM/Lenovo wants a pretty penny for one of their batteries.

Re: lc-1
 

ebay........for another cheap OEM used battery

when is the last time you cycle the battery?

when I first got this T42p is was only good for 36 Wh out of a rated 71 Wh, only had 20 cycles on a three year old battery. I've put 4 cycles on it and it is now at 58 Wh.

Also might wanna look into Notebook Hardware Control program that Blundar suggested, lowers the CPU voltage which cuts the heat down and the heat wasted.

When I first got this laptop it wouldn't last 1:45 surfing wireless with a full charge. I unplugged from the charger 2:15 ago, still have 48% battery left, 1:30 time, running at under 17 watts right now.

Re: lc-1
 

What I am using is a stereo (looks like the end of head phones) to a db9 to a db9 converter to usb. Should I know use the converter? should I just find a db9 female to usb?

What should I be using? I just full reset it and haven’t fucked with is since works fine at the moment.

Re: lc-1
 

What you should do is use a computer that lets you do away with that piece of ---- right there.

Re: lc-1
 

So find a computer with a db9 input???? Trying to find a db9 female to a usb is very hard I haven’t found one yet.

Can I just make an adapter? The usb looks like its just a 4 pin and the stereo is only two I would just need to know what goes to what. If any one could just grab a volt meter and do some continuity testing I would be very grateful.



Attachment 16233

Re: lc-1
 

It is not quite that simple.

Re: lc-1
 

What he said.

Re: lc-1
 

but that shits gold plated? I dont see how it wouldnt work....

Re: lc-1
 

That’s what I was thinking. I don’t under stand why it would not work I took apart the cable its only 4 wires. Dose the db9 to usb converter do something to the signal. I was thinking its just a loop going to the lc-1 an input and an output . It should all be digital signal.

I don’t know I’m just ------- around. Only 12 ways the wires can go I will try them all and let you know how I failed. I am out of options I cant get a new laptop.

The instruction say use a female db9 to a usb thy don’t even recommend the usb converter failure think so all I am really doing is just getting rid of the db9 connections.

I still cant find a female db9 to a usb.

Re: lc-1
 

??? ???

Re: lc-1
 

Yes it converts it
wrong a db9 is a connector for serial communications. A usb cable uses USB communications. Go to mexico and try to talk to some random uneducated dude in English and expect him to understand you cause you're both people even though he speaks spanish.

Companies still use serial because it was very easy to send communications through a UART port to a max232 chip or something like that. The way I understood my programers explaination, USB was pretty involved with alot more code writing for it to function through other ports. Now companies like FTDI make UART to USB converters so code writing still sends communications to the UART port like serial, and it gets converted via the FTDI chip to USB instead of using a 232 to convert to Serial. So you see companies starting to use USB like the Ostrich but the LC-1 is still lagging behind.

If half of that is correct I'd be impressed but at any rate usb-serial converters are translating from a slower serial type of communication to a much faster USB communication. It's not going to be very fast or perfect any way you cut it.

Re: lc-1
 

Bingo!

Wrongo!

Look up RS-232 protocol vs USB. USB is +5V or 0V, RS-232 is +18-3V or -18-3V, and that doesn't even address handshaking.

Re: lc-1
 

Ok that makes it a full picture. I see know.........................I still hate my db9 to usb converter.


Can I use any thing else to convert it with out using a usb. Has anyone had success with a USB converter?? If so what brand??

Attachment 15954

Sorry about all this I just want to reprogram my lc-1 I have tried every software version and tried all kinds of thing (waiting 20 min after reprogramming as a example) I am sure it my usb converter. I have contacted innovate several times and thy have helped me a lot but thy are thinking the same thing usb converter. I have even purchased the usb converter thy recommended with no luck.

Re: lc-1
 

The rat shack one worked for me. IT is pretty solid, but the serial connection is the best way to go.

http://www.radioshack.com/sm-6-ft-us...i-2036258.html

You could always get a serial PCMCIA adapter...

Re: lc-1
 

I had a problem programming my outputs when i first got it, but im not sure if i had the same problem. When i would try to program, it wouldn't do anything and then i would turn my car to the on position and the lc-1 would reset and recalibrate. I read a lot of different ---- that people said could be wrong. I ended up fixing it by switching to an older version of lm-programmer and firmware. I think it is the old version of LM-programmer that fixed it though (the old firmware sucks ass, it takes forever to warm-up).

I know that you said that you tried different versions of the software, but make sure that they are the version you think. I say this because i downloaded a version that said it was 3.15 and when i installed it the installer said it was 3.18. It wasn't untill about the 10th download that i actually found 3.15

Oh by the way im using a cheap ass RS-232 to USB converter and it works fine, my guess that isnt your problem.

Re: lc-1
 

I use the rat shack usb to db9 converter for my lc-1 and it works fine...now. I found that most laptops (especially HP's and Compaq's) have a usb setting in XP that will turn the usb port off if the current draw drops below a set level. You have to go into control panel/system/hardware/device manager and go to the usb root hub and right click. Click on properties and then on Power Management and uncheck the button that says "allow the computer to turn off this device to save power". I've had no problems ever since I did this.

Re: lc-1
 

Holy ----!!

Awesome tip.

I will have to try that out on the HP. That battery life on it is much better than on the IBM right now.

Re: lc-1
 

Lol good luck man, took me way too many months and half-assed logs to find out about that. :P