getawayinmoscow

Okay so I know about crome/uberdata and I know everyone think's FMU's suck. Well I have a jdm b16 in my 93 civic and I want to piece together a turbo kit for it. I've decided on what parts I want for it but have not decided on engine management yet. I don't want to break the bank on engine management but I want to have my car run well and if thats at the sacrafice of hp I'll take it. Where I live I have to drive 2 hours atleast to a dyno and the only tuning I would be able to do is if I bought a wideband and did it on the street, which I dont really want to do.

I'm going to run a t3/t04e most likely. Ideally I would like to run anywhere between 6-9 psi. I know a FMU can handle about 6-7psi just fine, supposedly at least. So which option makes more sense:

1) Run the FMU/missing link/inline pump at 7psi off the wastegate

or

2)Run 7,8,9psi and get some 440's and have xenocron burn me a basemap.

Obviously if I had the basemap I would just use that because I really would rather have something that's set and I don't have to ---- with later on.

I've read all the engine management stuff and the turbo faq's etc. All I really want is more power that's reliable and wont ---- up my car, I'm not looking to set any HP records here.

baldur

I can't believe people are still asking this question... I wouldn't even consider the FMU for one second, it is clearly not the right way to do things.

getawayinmoscow

I ask because there is so much conflicting info out there. One reliable source will say they are fine up untill 7psi and the next says they suck *** and to stay away from them.

Thanks for the help though.

4sd4dr

yea, I agree with him.

projekteg

see what you started chris

getawayinmoscow

Here is what I do know about FMU's: They are supposedly safe to around 7psi. Many people have used them for many miles without any problems and have received good results with them.

Here is what I know about uberdata/crome etc. While the software may be free, you still have to get a chipped ecu if you don't already have one, the USB cable so you can datalog, a wideband, and a chip burner. When you add alll that crap up, you might as well hondata and get it tuned by a professional on a dyno who knows what he is doing.

I guess maybe if you have a friend who has this stuff that you can borrow it might be more cost effective, however I dont have any of that stuff nor do I have access to it, so I would have to buy it all which costs $$$.

For me an FMU seems like a logical way to go, I can just bolt it on and go and don't really have to think about it again. IMO it sounds a lot more safe than limping your car to the dyno on Joe Schmoe's basemap.

nearly-man

good post man,

im the in the same situation,

projekteg

yeah, you don't have to worry about it again until the excessive fuel pressure kills your injectors and or fuel pump and you get no fuel in boost

getawayinmoscow

Kills my fuel pump? Not likely since there will be an inline pump that will take the heat instead of the stock one.

Here is how I see it: chipping your ecu + injectors + wideband + dyno time = ~$1000 to do it all right.

Well for $1000 I can buy a new b16 longblock. So I think I will just take my chances with the FMU because I think the benefits (works, a lot less $$$), out weigh the risks.

projekteg

yes, your injectors will last a long time with the 120+ psi of fuel pressure they will see from the fmu. if you're not serious about the performance of your car and just want a little boost and want your car to run pig rich and foul out plugs and eventually kill your injectors, all for 5-7 psi, fmu is the way to go. and no, it's not that expensive to run a chipped ecu. the first time i tuned a car with a chipped ecu, all i had was a chip burner, borrowed a lap top for a day, and paid for a little dyno time, which provides the wideband, so all in all, it was about 150 bucks to get a nice safe tune which was hella better than an fmu and i use to throw about 13 psi with that tune on a stock b16.