Adapting the distributor is the hard part IMHO, unless you have some good tools/machining stuff at your disposal. The wiring is pretty straight forward if you have a very good diagram.

I did a plug and play Honda to Nissan adapter, and it wasn't to bad. Added 1 sub harness for the distributor plug, the rest is through factory harness.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YEPTR...e=channel_page

The car starts, idles, cruises clean, and doesn't blow up.

 

tunning megasquirt is stupid easy. if you have a wideband, the car almost will tune itself.

 

I the PNP kit form DIYautotune for a Miata is 725 dollars. So that would remove most of your headache. If you were to source all of the honda sensors, ecu, chipping, miata ecu for female clips, you'd be in just about as deep when you added your time in and all of that.


I'm doing the honda thing because it's the same amount of work either way for me and all of the sensors are basically the same, so that cuts out all of the harness building. What I'm doing is basically a moderately elaborate obd0 to obd1 conversion.

 

If I bought a P06 for $60 it'd run me $100 or so. I do have a lot of parts laying around.

 

My clip from the toyota ecu was 50 from the other Mr. Davis, I've got 100 in clips and sensors including my 3 bar map, ECU was free, chipping kit was 20, hulog was 35, the chip burner will be 80 since I'm getting a burn2, the wideband was 170ish. Misc ---- 30~

So I have about too much money into it. :1

 

Sorry. I forget I wake up in the morning loaded for bear.

After you get this car done you should drop out of school so you can do 3-8 of those conversions a week and pay off that gear in no time.

 

Someone else can capitalize off this junk. I'm going to law school or something.

 

To the OP, tuning a MS yourself is easy. You can download the basemaps that are safe enough to get you running. Read the megamanual a couple times. Then start tuning. With a wideband hooked up, you just datalog, then analyze, and save the new map. Once everything's setup, it takes ~1 hour to get the fuel map dialed in within 0.1 A/F R points of your target table. Like eating a piece of pie. As for spark, just run DIY's basemap or someone on mt.net's map that's considered "safe". Or get a knocksenseMS for like 70 bucks and have active knock detection that interfaces with MS. While doing a honda ECU setup would be badass in some ways, it's not practical.

PS-I'm an engineer in school and I MS'd and turbo'd my BP. ---- 11 PSI through a GT3271 is the ----.