Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
07-16-2003, 02:13 AM
#1
0.0 BAR
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
So Joey or one of the PGMFI guys convinced you to buy a Batronix chip burner (currently $69 for the unassembled kit, includes software). Now, wtf do you do with this hunk of junk, once you get it hooked to your computer??
Prog-Studio, the Batronix software, is a full featured development platform for any number of microcontrollers - it has assembler/dissassembler, hex editor, and is incorporated with the chip burning function. While I use hex editors and such, an automotive hobbyist worried about getting his ---- running needs only worry about Prog-Studio's chip burning function.
The first time you go into Prog-Studio, you need to set it up for what you are going to do. Follow these instructions:
- Open Prog-Studio
- Drop down the "Programmer" menu on the menu bar across the top of the window.
- Prog-studio 5.21/5.22's first option is "Choose programmer and chip." Select this. *note: those of you running 5.17 - or 5.13, shame on you - have two seperate menus from which you choose the burner/programmer and chip seperately*
- Choose your burner type, which is e(E)prommer, and version (mine is 3.2, most new ones are 3.3).
- Choose your chip type - for 99% of you guys it is either 27C256 or 29C256. The 27's are the UV erasable OR OTP chips. FYI, OTP means you can only burn the chip once, and it can't be reused. The 29's are the flash chips that the burner can erase and reprogram in a matter of seconds.
- After selecting all that junk, you get a pop up window with a picture of how to set the jumpers on your Eeprommer. Well, don't sit there, set them!
You are now ready to burn a chip.
- Open your ready to burn .bin file
- Ignore the hexadecimal numbers. When/if you need a hex editor, you can use it as such, but don't worry about it.
- Hit CTRL-B (or use the option in the "Programmer" pull down menu) and the burning dialog box opens.
- Prog-Studio automatically checks your IC to see if it is blank for you.
- Choose "start" to burn the chip
- Prog-Studio burns and then verifies the data
You are now ready to install your chip in the ECU.
It is a good thing to note that errors at 0 hex/0 dec are signs that you don't have power going to your burner - or sometimes it's an old/bad EPROM and is broken.
Prog-Studio, the Batronix software, is a full featured development platform for any number of microcontrollers - it has assembler/dissassembler, hex editor, and is incorporated with the chip burning function. While I use hex editors and such, an automotive hobbyist worried about getting his ---- running needs only worry about Prog-Studio's chip burning function.
The first time you go into Prog-Studio, you need to set it up for what you are going to do. Follow these instructions:
- Open Prog-Studio
- Drop down the "Programmer" menu on the menu bar across the top of the window.
- Prog-studio 5.21/5.22's first option is "Choose programmer and chip." Select this. *note: those of you running 5.17 - or 5.13, shame on you - have two seperate menus from which you choose the burner/programmer and chip seperately*
- Choose your burner type, which is e(E)prommer, and version (mine is 3.2, most new ones are 3.3).
- Choose your chip type - for 99% of you guys it is either 27C256 or 29C256. The 27's are the UV erasable OR OTP chips. FYI, OTP means you can only burn the chip once, and it can't be reused. The 29's are the flash chips that the burner can erase and reprogram in a matter of seconds.
- After selecting all that junk, you get a pop up window with a picture of how to set the jumpers on your Eeprommer. Well, don't sit there, set them!
You are now ready to burn a chip.
- Open your ready to burn .bin file
- Ignore the hexadecimal numbers. When/if you need a hex editor, you can use it as such, but don't worry about it.
- Hit CTRL-B (or use the option in the "Programmer" pull down menu) and the burning dialog box opens.
- Prog-Studio automatically checks your IC to see if it is blank for you.
- Choose "start" to burn the chip
- Prog-Studio burns and then verifies the data
You are now ready to install your chip in the ECU.
It is a good thing to note that errors at 0 hex/0 dec are signs that you don't have power going to your burner - or sometimes it's an old/bad EPROM and is broken.
07-16-2003, 02:18 AM
#2
0.0 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
Ah, yes. Also:
Anyone care to offer up similar instructions for the infamous Epromer5, Willem, etc, chip burners?
Anybody tries to get funny and post xtronic's Pocket Programmer junk, I'll post pics of the one I hit with a hammer.
Anyone care to offer up similar instructions for the infamous Epromer5, Willem, etc, chip burners?
Anybody tries to get funny and post xtronic's Pocket Programmer junk, I'll post pics of the one I hit with a hammer.
07-17-2003, 01:34 AM
#3
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 468
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Ah, yes. Also:
Anyone care to offer up similar instructions for the infamous Epromer5, Willem, etc, chip burners?
Anybody tries to get funny and post xtronic's Pocket Programmer junk, I'll post pics of the one I hit with a hammer.
Anyone care to offer up similar instructions for the infamous Epromer5, Willem, etc, chip burners?
Anybody tries to get funny and post xtronic's Pocket Programmer junk, I'll post pics of the one I hit with a hammer.
if you have the willem, well first i pity you. next, if you keep getting a freeze in win9x when you go to do the test, be sure to pick a rom from the dropdown list first. if youre in win2k/xp and getting popup errors, try running in win95/9x compatability mode by right clicking on the exe and going to properties etc. if youve made it this far, congrats, but dont think that youre out of the clear just yet. your last hope is to try searching the archives at www.willem.org but again, i pity you.
in either case, make sure you sit the eprom correctly in the zif socket. for the epromer5, pin1 does NOT match up with pin1 at the top on the zif, pin1 goes into pin3 of the zif. ie you place the bottom of the eprom (pin14) at the bottom of the zif which is where the release arm is.
07-29-2003, 08:21 AM
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 387
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
i just got my eepromer working, i took the ghettodyne file and just changed the rev limits, the launch control i set it to 7500 cuz i didnt want it.. and set my idle...
now the file ends up being like 17k or something...
do i have to fill the file to be like 256k or something then burn on the rom or will this 17k file burned work just as fine? like would it effect the ecu cuz the rom has a lot of empty space?
just curious about all this.
now the file ends up being like 17k or something...
do i have to fill the file to be like 256k or something then burn on the rom or will this 17k file burned work just as fine? like would it effect the ecu cuz the rom has a lot of empty space?
just curious about all this.
08-01-2003, 07:43 PM
#6
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 8
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
what kind of power supply are you guys using? they sent me some instructions but i dont understand what all the tecchie mambo jambo about the different amperages?? i just need to know which one everyone else is running so i can get these thigns going.. also what e proms are u running?
08-14-2003, 04:21 PM
#8
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Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 44
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
Just got the Willem to work last night. Make sure you intall the chip properly with pin 1 going into the zif sockets pin3. Make sure to jumper pin 3 to pin 31 on the zif for the 29c256. I had trouble with the jumper causing the chip to make poor contact because the jumper was too thick so I may hardwire a switch on the board. The software although a little buggy sometimes seems pretty straightforward and sounds similar to the batronix. It seems to work for the little burning I need to do and the Willem are quite a bit cheaper than the batronix. They can eb easily found on ebay for about 50 bucks assembled.
08-17-2003, 10:29 AM
#9
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 0
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
Thanks for the heads up on the Willem. I've heard a number of complains on those... I'm inclined to think it's a good chip burner, it's problem is that it is just not user friendly, so if you have any info + advice you can give on the subject it is much appreciated.
As far as the Batronix unit and power supplies... they require 13 to 18 volts. If you just grab any generic 12 volt power supply, they all spike up above 13 volts in no-load situations. Burning chips is a no load situation. I used two 9 volt batteries in parallel for a while, then later upgraded to a $5 open box universal power supply I came across at Homeboy Depot.
As far as the Batronix unit and power supplies... they require 13 to 18 volts. If you just grab any generic 12 volt power supply, they all spike up above 13 volts in no-load situations. Burning chips is a no load situation. I used two 9 volt batteries in parallel for a while, then later upgraded to a $5 open box universal power supply I came across at Homeboy Depot.
09-04-2003, 02:08 PM
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 288
Re:Batronix e(E)prommer how-to
some words on the Willem...
My pre-assembled Willem was not assembled correctly. I paid $62 shipped from an ebay seller. I should have put the thing together myself. I wiggled all the IC sockets with my fingers and one cracked... Must have been a cold joint.
Anyways, after I fixed the hardware, the fun started. The Willem programmer was *very* picky about what power source I used when burning 27C256 ROMs. The 24V /500ma DC power adapter for my UV chip eraser seemed to work like a charm. The 18v / 1.5A adapter I use with batronix / the UV lamp (which came from an ascend pipeline ISDN router, fyi) would not work. 12v generic would not work. 9v generic would not work.
Software wise, the adventures continued. I was testing on my IBM thinkpad T21 running Windows 2000. Couple things:
-If you get any kind of error, quit the software and restart. Failure to do so will result in the software crashing or windows blue screening.
-Do not try to burn more than one chip: burn, quit, restart, burn again
-Make sure you orient your burner so that the dip switches line up properly.
I wasn't unhappy with my Willem at all... I traded it+$$$ away for another burner that supported more chips. I would certainly get another one as a "simple burner" because it was a reliable burner, despite the finickyness.
My pre-assembled Willem was not assembled correctly. I paid $62 shipped from an ebay seller. I should have put the thing together myself. I wiggled all the IC sockets with my fingers and one cracked... Must have been a cold joint.
Anyways, after I fixed the hardware, the fun started. The Willem programmer was *very* picky about what power source I used when burning 27C256 ROMs. The 24V /500ma DC power adapter for my UV chip eraser seemed to work like a charm. The 18v / 1.5A adapter I use with batronix / the UV lamp (which came from an ascend pipeline ISDN router, fyi) would not work. 12v generic would not work. 9v generic would not work.
Software wise, the adventures continued. I was testing on my IBM thinkpad T21 running Windows 2000. Couple things:
-If you get any kind of error, quit the software and restart. Failure to do so will result in the software crashing or windows blue screening.
-Do not try to burn more than one chip: burn, quit, restart, burn again
-Make sure you orient your burner so that the dip switches line up properly.
I wasn't unhappy with my Willem at all... I traded it+$$$ away for another burner that supported more chips. I would certainly get another one as a "simple burner" because it was a reliable burner, despite the finickyness.
