2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
#1
2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
i'm flustered and i know there is a lot more knowledge and DIY here than ht. i also posted on pgmfi, but i don't think it's frequented as much..
i'm working on a friends 2001 gsr, it has i/h/e, and i pulled his manifold and replaced with a gen1 skunk2. the car has almost no throttle response (sputters when giving too much throttle). smells like it's running rich, and well, i can't find any vacuum leaks. i've tried running (out of curiousity and troubleshooting) the stock p72...dies at idle. i've tried a p28 w/ a modded ITR program from my perfectly running car and it runs a lil rough at idle and does like mentioned above..cant give it throttle without it hesitating. am i chasing a non-existent vacuum leak, or is something going on without these IAB's present? i need help!
as it is, there are no codes being thrown (currently have the wesgsr bin in).
i'm burning chips on at29c256 with flash and burn, using bins from crome and uberdata.
addresses are: 000000 -> 007FFF (chip and buffer) for 32k bins.
steps i've taken:
1. ran following bin files: wesgsr, stock itr, MY tune for my ITR mild build civic, gsr w/IAB disabled
2. tried to run the p72
3. checked for leaks of all types
have not:
1. checked timing (because the distributor and timing was untouched)
2. ran a wideband (this would be my next step to do) ..as it is i KNOW it's running rich just by smelling it.
3. checked TPS voltage (again, didn't touch this in the manifold swap)
i'm working on a friends 2001 gsr, it has i/h/e, and i pulled his manifold and replaced with a gen1 skunk2. the car has almost no throttle response (sputters when giving too much throttle). smells like it's running rich, and well, i can't find any vacuum leaks. i've tried running (out of curiousity and troubleshooting) the stock p72...dies at idle. i've tried a p28 w/ a modded ITR program from my perfectly running car and it runs a lil rough at idle and does like mentioned above..cant give it throttle without it hesitating. am i chasing a non-existent vacuum leak, or is something going on without these IAB's present? i need help!
as it is, there are no codes being thrown (currently have the wesgsr bin in).
i'm burning chips on at29c256 with flash and burn, using bins from crome and uberdata.
addresses are: 000000 -> 007FFF (chip and buffer) for 32k bins.
steps i've taken:
1. ran following bin files: wesgsr, stock itr, MY tune for my ITR mild build civic, gsr w/IAB disabled
2. tried to run the p72
3. checked for leaks of all types
have not:
1. checked timing (because the distributor and timing was untouched)
2. ran a wideband (this would be my next step to do) ..as it is i KNOW it's running rich just by smelling it.
3. checked TPS voltage (again, didn't touch this in the manifold swap)
#2
Re: 2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
First things first, Gen1 Skank9 IM is inferior to the stock GSR IM. Take the goddamn thing back off and look at how the B16-based casting has it's runners change direction twice right at the GSR head flange. That's not flow, it's fail. Regardless, a ported GSR IM with IABs removed (just the IABs, not the spacer the IABs ride in - it's needed to add volume) is better with regard to plenum volume and runners than that Skank9 unit would be if it's angle of entry was correct for a GSR head.
Second, any time you fool with wiring around the IM and run rich after you've mixed some plugs up. This is a very good way to melt IAT sensors, blow holes in the ECU circuitboard at or near Q31/C14/C16, and sometimes take out the injector drivers in the ECU. Download some service literature (stickied in the Hybrid/Tech section) and compare wiring colors. You probably have IAT, IACV, PS pressure switch mixed around. If you were dealing with an OBD1 car your ECU *would* be dead as the IAT and purge solenoid get confused all the time, lucky for you the purge solenoid on OBD2 cars has a different connector.
Second, any time you fool with wiring around the IM and run rich after you've mixed some plugs up. This is a very good way to melt IAT sensors, blow holes in the ECU circuitboard at or near Q31/C14/C16, and sometimes take out the injector drivers in the ECU. Download some service literature (stickied in the Hybrid/Tech section) and compare wiring colors. You probably have IAT, IACV, PS pressure switch mixed around. If you were dealing with an OBD1 car your ECU *would* be dead as the IAT and purge solenoid get confused all the time, lucky for you the purge solenoid on OBD2 cars has a different connector.
#4
Re: 2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
First things first, Gen1 Skank9 IM is inferior to the stock GSR IM. Take the goddamn thing back off and look at how the B16-based casting has it's runners change direction twice right at the GSR head flange. That's not flow, it's fail. Regardless, a ported GSR IM with IABs removed (just the IABs, not the spacer the IABs ride in - it's needed to add volume) is better with regard to plenum volume and runners than that Skank9 unit would be if it's angle of entry was correct for a GSR head.
Second, any time you fool with wiring around the IM and run rich after you've mixed some plugs up. This is a very good way to melt IAT sensors, blow holes in the ECU circuitboard at or near Q31/C14/C16, and sometimes take out the injector drivers in the ECU. Download some service literature (stickied in the Hybrid/Tech section) and compare wiring colors. You probably have IAT, IACV, PS pressure switch mixed around. If you were dealing with an OBD1 car your ECU *would* be dead as the IAT and purge solenoid get confused all the time, lucky for you the purge solenoid on OBD2 cars has a different connector.
Second, any time you fool with wiring around the IM and run rich after you've mixed some plugs up. This is a very good way to melt IAT sensors, blow holes in the ECU circuitboard at or near Q31/C14/C16, and sometimes take out the injector drivers in the ECU. Download some service literature (stickied in the Hybrid/Tech section) and compare wiring colors. You probably have IAT, IACV, PS pressure switch mixed around. If you were dealing with an OBD1 car your ECU *would* be dead as the IAT and purge solenoid get confused all the time, lucky for you the purge solenoid on OBD2 cars has a different connector.
i'm 110% sure that i've reconnected the sensors correctly and really....with the pain in the dick that this manifold has been, i may just be putting the stock ---- back on anyways.
again..appreciate your attempt to help me.
on a side note, i don't see anywhere that pbtuning makes a gsr manifold spacer (just the tb spacers).
#5
Re: 2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
Originally Posted by erictolon
thanks for the reply.. i don't want to make it sound like i'm arguing against you, but the new manifold really doesn't look like it changes direction at all. i agree with your statement about entry angle, but as this car will be turbo'd in the future, should i really worry about plenum volume?
Plenum volume means a lot, even more so when you apply boost. Look at an Edelbrock Vickie-X, huuuuuge plenum.
Also, vacuum leaks don't manifest as you describe. If you got it running with a leak it would surge harshly at idle instead of wanting to die... and run like it's supposed to at WOT. Double check to make sure your fuel return line isn't kinked, because aside from that all I can think of is wiring plugged in the wrong places. No CELs, and the check engine light cycles normally when you first insert and then turn the ignition key?
#6
Re: 2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
Originally Posted by Joseph Davis
Take another look at the flange, when/if you have it off.
Plenum volume means a lot, even more so when you apply boost. Look at an Edelbrock Vickie-X, huuuuuge plenum.
Plenum volume means a lot, even more so when you apply boost. Look at an Edelbrock Vickie-X, huuuuuge plenum.
Double check to make sure your fuel return line isn't kinked, because aside from that all I can think of is wiring plugged in the wrong places. No CELs, and the check engine light cycles normally when you first insert and then turn the ignition key?
i'm pretty much going to run over everything one last time tonight and if i can't find my error then the stock manifold will go back on later this weekend.
if i did a ---- up..i'll man up about the ---- and admit it...since i'll be frequenting here often now that i'm back in to building honda ----.
Thanks!
#8
Re: 2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
Skank9 Pro-series finally got GSR alignment right. You only pay twice as much as the AEBS/Pro-Products IMs but they are just as good so it's money well spent to have the better know brand name, right?
#10
Re: 2001 GSR w/ skank2 manifold...won't run right
don't know what happened..
the chip i originally had in my p28 went dead or something.. every other chip i had the same, then i busted out a brand new chip and burnt it, and now the car runs great.
only thing i can think of is that somehow the chips lost integrity by being next to a magnet for an extended amount of time..or it was just their time to go. (since they have been in a box next to some random ---- in storage).
now that everything is good, we'll be putting a test pipe in and i'll throw my wideband on to do some tuning (might even run the w/b indefinitely and run the narrowband signal to ecu). it's the r300, and i've used it on 3 different cars now.. i love the thing except for the shatty display in well lit conditions.
thanks for the suggestions and help..
the chip i originally had in my p28 went dead or something.. every other chip i had the same, then i busted out a brand new chip and burnt it, and now the car runs great.
only thing i can think of is that somehow the chips lost integrity by being next to a magnet for an extended amount of time..or it was just their time to go. (since they have been in a box next to some random ---- in storage).
now that everything is good, we'll be putting a test pipe in and i'll throw my wideband on to do some tuning (might even run the w/b indefinitely and run the narrowband signal to ecu). it's the r300, and i've used it on 3 different cars now.. i love the thing except for the shatty display in well lit conditions.
thanks for the suggestions and help..