writeup/how to: turbocharging Ford Probe 2.0L
02-02-2005, 08:08 PM
#1
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,109
writeup/how to: turbocharging Ford Probe 2.0L
This is a writeup/how to on what you need to do and what parts you need to turbocharger your 93-97 Ford Probe and Mazda MX-6 2.0L. First thing you should ask yourself is what kind of power am I looking to run? How much can the stock internals handle?
The amount of power a stock 2.0L can handle is unknown. There have been a few members on Probetalk.com that have said to be up to 230whp on 10psi no problems with good tuning. The amount of boost some have been reporting is running as high as 14psi but have not dynoed to find out how much power that is really making.
The turbo size selection is pretty wide------. The optimal size turbo to use would be a T3/TO4E 60Trim. The smalles I would run is a DSM T25.
You can purchase turbo manifolds from JGSTools.com or on Probetalk.com from certain vendors. There are some people now experimenting with using the MazdaSpeed Protege turbo manifolds but some designs interfer witht the distrubtor while as the Protege does not have one. The cheapest way to go is to pick up a stock manifold from the 96-97 2.0's It sits shorter than the stock 93-95's so you can use this by just welding a turbo flange to the bottom of it.
Fuel management is something you dont wont to skimp out on with your setup. The best know fuel setup for the 2.0 right now is using a SAFCI or II, with some 330cc injectors out of the 90-92 PGT turbos or some 440cc injectors out of the 89-92 Toyota Supra Turbo. Both of which are direct dropins. You can use an FMU with the stock injectors which are 220cc and run about 8-9 psi safely before the injectors reach their max duty cycle. Here is a wiring writeup for the SAFCI and II. Taken from Probetalk.com
I. APEXi SAFC wiring (read thru first).
A. On the ECU Wire harness, Tap the SAFC wires there…remove the bezel
around the head unit and shifter.
B. Take a socket (10mm) and unscrew the bolt from the center of the wire
harness plug, and pull the plug out towards you.
C. connect the APEXi SAFC wires below to the according ECU wires
WIRE on APEXi----------------------Wire on ECU
RED-------------------------------Any 12v power on ECU
GREEN-----------------------------RPM signal
BROWN----------------------------Ground**
BLACK-----------------------------Ground**
** those 2 grounds have to go on the same ground wire on the ECU...the brown goes closest to the ECU and the black goes about 1cm (or 1/2 and inch) behind that one the SAME ground wire.
Yellow (output)--------------------RED mass air wire on ECU***
White (INPUT)---------------------RED mass air wire on ECU***
*** you have to cut this wire.....the YELLOW safc wire connects to the piece of wire going into the ECU....the white on the apexi connects to the wire that is coming from the MAF.....this is how it alters the signal....it comes from the maf, into the white wire, into the SAFC itself where you can alter the signal, back out the yellow SAFC wire and into the rest of the wire that goes into the ECU.
Gray-----------------------------TPS signal
*****3 wires are not used
Also you will need to install an intank Walbro 190 or 255LPH fuel pump or the required fuel demand, you can get these off ebay for $90 shipped.
For an intercooler most people use a front mount (30X6X2.5) is optimal for this type of setup. Intercooler pipes can be a bitch routing them to the front to the intercooler but in the engine bay its fairly easy
Blow off valve, a good cheap choice is a 1st gen DSM. It can be T'ed off at the fuel pressure regulator or at the cruise control vacuum line
Oil feed line to the turbo can be T'ed off at the back of the block where the oil pressure sending unit is. The oil return should be placed as high as possible on the oil pan to prevent backup.
Gauges- Boost gauge is a must so you can tell how much boost your running. It can be T'ed off at the fuel pressure regulator or at the cruise control vacuum line. Also you will need a AFR(air fuel ratio) gauge or and EGT gauge to tell if your engine is running lean or rich. The AFR gauge should be tapped off of the black wire on the primary O2 sensor. The EGT gauge is to be placed on the #4 exhaust outlet port. When boosting if using an AFR it should read rich. If using an EGT it should be reading lower temps.
Exhaust- for the best results use at least a 2.5" downpipe and 3" pipe all the way back with no CAT.
Couple comments when installing is when you are trying to find a place to position you MAF (mass air flow sensor) dont put it before the turbo like a draw through system but place it right before the throttle body so it can get the most accurate measurment on how much air is exactly getting into the engine.
Will post more info later.
The amount of power a stock 2.0L can handle is unknown. There have been a few members on Probetalk.com that have said to be up to 230whp on 10psi no problems with good tuning. The amount of boost some have been reporting is running as high as 14psi but have not dynoed to find out how much power that is really making.
The turbo size selection is pretty wide------. The optimal size turbo to use would be a T3/TO4E 60Trim. The smalles I would run is a DSM T25.
You can purchase turbo manifolds from JGSTools.com or on Probetalk.com from certain vendors. There are some people now experimenting with using the MazdaSpeed Protege turbo manifolds but some designs interfer witht the distrubtor while as the Protege does not have one. The cheapest way to go is to pick up a stock manifold from the 96-97 2.0's It sits shorter than the stock 93-95's so you can use this by just welding a turbo flange to the bottom of it.
Fuel management is something you dont wont to skimp out on with your setup. The best know fuel setup for the 2.0 right now is using a SAFCI or II, with some 330cc injectors out of the 90-92 PGT turbos or some 440cc injectors out of the 89-92 Toyota Supra Turbo. Both of which are direct dropins. You can use an FMU with the stock injectors which are 220cc and run about 8-9 psi safely before the injectors reach their max duty cycle. Here is a wiring writeup for the SAFCI and II. Taken from Probetalk.com
I. APEXi SAFC wiring (read thru first).
A. On the ECU Wire harness, Tap the SAFC wires there…remove the bezel
around the head unit and shifter.
B. Take a socket (10mm) and unscrew the bolt from the center of the wire
harness plug, and pull the plug out towards you.
C. connect the APEXi SAFC wires below to the according ECU wires
WIRE on APEXi----------------------Wire on ECU
RED-------------------------------Any 12v power on ECU
GREEN-----------------------------RPM signal
BROWN----------------------------Ground**
BLACK-----------------------------Ground**
** those 2 grounds have to go on the same ground wire on the ECU...the brown goes closest to the ECU and the black goes about 1cm (or 1/2 and inch) behind that one the SAME ground wire.
Yellow (output)--------------------RED mass air wire on ECU***
White (INPUT)---------------------RED mass air wire on ECU***
*** you have to cut this wire.....the YELLOW safc wire connects to the piece of wire going into the ECU....the white on the apexi connects to the wire that is coming from the MAF.....this is how it alters the signal....it comes from the maf, into the white wire, into the SAFC itself where you can alter the signal, back out the yellow SAFC wire and into the rest of the wire that goes into the ECU.
Gray-----------------------------TPS signal
*****3 wires are not used
Also you will need to install an intank Walbro 190 or 255LPH fuel pump or the required fuel demand, you can get these off ebay for $90 shipped.
For an intercooler most people use a front mount (30X6X2.5) is optimal for this type of setup. Intercooler pipes can be a bitch routing them to the front to the intercooler but in the engine bay its fairly easy
Blow off valve, a good cheap choice is a 1st gen DSM. It can be T'ed off at the fuel pressure regulator or at the cruise control vacuum line
Oil feed line to the turbo can be T'ed off at the back of the block where the oil pressure sending unit is. The oil return should be placed as high as possible on the oil pan to prevent backup.
Gauges- Boost gauge is a must so you can tell how much boost your running. It can be T'ed off at the fuel pressure regulator or at the cruise control vacuum line. Also you will need a AFR(air fuel ratio) gauge or and EGT gauge to tell if your engine is running lean or rich. The AFR gauge should be tapped off of the black wire on the primary O2 sensor. The EGT gauge is to be placed on the #4 exhaust outlet port. When boosting if using an AFR it should read rich. If using an EGT it should be reading lower temps.
Exhaust- for the best results use at least a 2.5" downpipe and 3" pipe all the way back with no CAT.
Couple comments when installing is when you are trying to find a place to position you MAF (mass air flow sensor) dont put it before the turbo like a draw through system but place it right before the throttle body so it can get the most accurate measurment on how much air is exactly getting into the engine.
Will post more info later.
02-04-2005, 02:04 PM
#3
1.5 BAR
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,109
Re:writeup/how to: turbocharging Ford Probe 2.0L
well actually I used to be a probe guy. When I did have a probe I built a homemade kit for it. The 2.0 if thats what you have likes boost alot. If you have that 2.5 then that motor is a whole different thing. But I can help you out with both motors and setups. Just let me know if you ever need help.
01-10-2006, 06:01 AM
#4
1.0 BAR
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 378
Re: writeup/how to: turbocharging Ford Probe 2.0L
Sorry to bring back an old topic, but are you ------- high on crack? Stock 220 injectors? Upgrade to the GT injectors? 440's from a Supra? I don't know who the ---- you copied and pasted that from but that is HORRIBLE advice. If you wanted close to 300 at the crank, the LEAST you'd need would be 550's. You're suggesting a T3/TO4E 60 which is a monster of a turbo on the compressor side and the wussiest of injectors to suit it.
Holy ----.
Don't follow this, please.
Holy ----.
Don't follow this, please.
01-10-2006, 07:56 AM
#5
1.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 278
Re: writeup/how to: turbocharging Ford Probe 2.0L
i just sold a 93 probe gt, couldnt fiugere out what was wrong with the pos, i thik either injectors or distributor but didnt wanna waste no mo money on it so i sold it, when it was running the previous owner wasw beating 5.0's (on the bottle) it was the fastest pos i ever drove.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
