what should it be at stock? i was hitting 13psi and had to let off, also i couldn't noticably hear the open dump from the wastegate, shouldnt that be pretty loud? im thinkin its not opening fully/at all.
any thoughts

 

Clocked like a 14b, they normally hit 9-10psi. Mighty vac vacuum pumps are your friend + a large pair of snap ring pliers to clock the compressor housing. Those flaps only move about what would be 80 degrees when your looking at the actuator arm in relation to the little arm it pushes on. Thats best case.

 

ya its clocked, but i wasnt sure it it should go the full 90 degrees to full open. i didnt check in the stock location before i installed it.
i think i have to port out the flapper hole. its a cdm so the port is small, but i figured it wouldn't matter if i was just gonna run 9-10psi.
also becsue of the angle i think the actuator arm might be binding up, i made sure it would open using my compressor and air gun, but i didnt check at what pressure really. i think it was at like 30psi or something.
what do you think? i will bend the arm a bit to try and keep it from binding, and i guess pull the turbo and port the hole if needed.

 

If the arm is binding, you arent opening all the way, as it is binding, you are also not clocked properly. Try clocking it first, if that doesnt work, then go for the porting. Fix what you can see first.

 

what is the "proper" clocking? its the same way i had my 14b, that worked fine. i think i had to bend the arm though.

 

There's a little divot that lines up on the compressor housing. Not a pin like on the exhaust housing, but a little sunken half circle that meets with a half circle on the compressor housing to line it up perfectly. Make sure the right prong of the snap ring is directly under the outlet when it's re-installed. If you're having trouble getting the snap ring back in, don't tap it with anything metal because you'll end up cracking the bearing housing which is a ---- to repair and causes a massive leak.

It's way easier with 2 people so one guy can guide while the other guy squeezes like an arm wrestling champion on the snap ring pliers. I like Garrett compressor housings better because they can truly be clocked. I do like Mitsu exhaust housings better though because they come off way easier than 6 incredibly rusted and factory loc-tited Garrett turbine housing bolts that can't all be removed without having it loose.

 

i just shaved the housing, and rotated it to where i needed it and put it all back together by myself, that was way easier than i thought it would be.
the problem it the actuator was diagnal across the turbo , and now its not at that much of an angle, i guess i'll try bendin the arm