I'm about ready to start reassembling my z6 but I've noticed the thrust bearing is a little chewed up and theres seems to be some crankshaft endplay, I've seen the limits in the book but if its over can I get an oversized thrust bearing or what, theres prolly .005 of play I think the book says .003, I'll go to honda today to see If I can get an oversized. Just wondering if anyone has just put it together like that or knows what I should do, thank you.

 

just install new thrust bearings instead of the chewed up on.

Stage 3 clutches = dead cranks and thrust washers

 

OMG! mine isnt nearly that bad, just one of the thrust washers has a little rash on it, I'll replace it anyway. thanks for the pics tho, I just spec'd all the bearings and it seems crazy the rod bolts only need to be torqued to 23 ft. lbs, is this right? I have scat rods and arp 2000's in a d16z6. sorry for all the stupid questions but the book is very vague and this is my first time this far into a build.

 

Oh yeah, once I put it back together and torqued everything down with some assembly lube in it, the endplay is less than .003, i'll get some new thrust washers anyway. thanx

 

ouch mista bone, i have a double diaphram pp in my accord and my thrust washers didnt look anything like that

 

im having SEVERE issues with endplay right now. Need help, going to pull the motor back ------- out already.. Pulling the pan this weekend..


Even if it was a clutch issue, it wouldnt have taken only 1200 miles to get where its at. The pressure plate im using is only like 2900 lbs. it would have taken a much longer time. This just didnt happen overnight, unfortunately however it has happened, and I really need to find the time to get the motor out and get ---- fixed.

I didnt touch ANYTHING in the bottom end, sans put on the oil pickup and pan on. I am posiyive that its nothing I did, the motor had oil at all times, changed after first 100 miles, then another 250 (organic chevron 10-30), then i swiitched to mobile 1 10/30 synthetic. Motor was primed with oil ( no ecu fuse) tuner was there from the very first lighting opf the motor. Ran it for five minutes or so to get it warm and check for leaks... Went and did some partial load ---- to seat the rings for a while, then started tuning boost... Plugs looked good, motor was happy, expletive it ran great!!!

500 ish whp reving it only to 8k. No knock, no smoke, no nothing, except LOTS of wheelspin in the first 3-4 gears

I had talked with the builder before he started on my ---- and explained that the whole reason i was having someone else build it wasJUST IN CASE something like this happened... So he knows where im at, and hes cool. thats why this wont turn into a bashing thread. Allparties involved ar out to have a fair outcome for the situation.

Im sure things will work out, I just dont want to hurt it anymore. Its not knocking or anything, but its got a bad tick that seems to go away after its warmed up, but never all the way. Sooooo she sits.

Will know more when We pull the motor out. I hope this week.... Im getting seriously ------- depressed... GOTTA have her done by BOTI. hopefully a good deal sooner.

 

Mine was a DD PP also, when I speak about having too much clutch, I've learned from my personal exp.

Stock PP with agressive disc......quicker engagement for 1/4 mile racing.

BTW, clutches need to slip. If they don't slip a certain about you either go up in smoke or tire shake. Look at Top Fuel/Funny car.......and the Lenco I tune

740 CID Chebby making 1500 hp NA, launches with 300 shot, second 300 shot hits at 1-2 shift (keep clutches slippin) then final 400 shot (yes, that 1000+ shot of nitrous) in 4th gear if all is well.

6.8x@ 215+ mph.

Anyone wanna guess what happens on a Pro Mod motor when you step off the gas but the nitrous setup stays on?


Hit the chutes and kill 12v power.......

 

mista bone!! It looks like that thrust was installed backwards.

but i could be wrong and the bearing could be worse that the pictures show