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Install the nut, then put some oil in the center section...it should spin freely.

make sure u loctite the compressor nut. it completely fucked me over once

 

Ok bare with me this is my first build. Here is a better expalined version of my question with pics of what Im asking. I put quotations b/c I want to make sure I'm we're calling the parts the same name. I just want to make sure you dont use another name (probably the right one) and I wont know what you mean. Sorry if this is retarted but I could really use the help. I am confident that the internals are correct. Keep in mind that I got the compressor wheel separately from the kit so it may be the wrong height. Thanks for all the help... So:

-If you look closely you can see the "compressor wheel" will sit higher than the threading on the "shaft" when I put it on. It is still higher than the threading on the shaft after I put the "compressor wheel" on the shaft and into the dip for it.



-So i put it on the shaft and put the nut on. As long as I dont tighten the nut (to spec of course), the "compressor wheel" and "shaft" will spin freely. They do not spin together as if they are one unit, but I can spin them.



-So now, if I do tighten the nut (to spec of course) the "compressor wheel" is pushed against the "centersection" which will not allow the "compressor wheel" or the "shaft" to spin. This is because the lowest point of threading on the "shaft" is lower than the top of the "compressor wheel."



Is this how it is supposed to be? Or is the "compressor wheel" supposed to be short enough so that it does not touch the "centersection" when the nut is tightened? Thank you for your time again. Much appreciated...

 

That's a pretty standard problem to have. Is the spacer plate between the exhaust wheel and the back of the center section in good shape or is it corroded to ----? If it's bad the wheel won't quite sit right and you'll get that binding going on like you're having. Also, just pushing the shaft through isn't gonna cut it. You need a rubber mallet. Smack the back of the exhaust wheel (not ON the exhaust wheel, but the shaft) and you'll feel it drop in a couple more mm's. Then tighten that ----- down. Make sure that when the shaft nut is tightened all the way that the compressor wheel is sitting flush as well. Sitting inside the hole for it in the center section. If it's up even a tiny bit the turbo will grenade the first chance it gets. OMG locktite is a must. The red stuff. Good luck man. If you can't get it, send it over to me, I'll get it straightened out for you.

 

haha i think you're kinda right. i went home for lunch and noticed that the black center bushing i got is shorter than the original one. the compressor wheel isnt even touching it and is why the compressor wheel is sitting so low that it touches the centersection.

yeah, so i looked at the compressor wheel and center cap and they are tapered! that means they gave me a 16g kit instead of a 14g rebuild kit. FRIGGIN CRAP!!! (no i didnt just know that, i read up about the tapering on the kit and the only kit they sell like that is a 16g kit) wonderfull....

so when you tighten the last nut, the compressor wheel is pushed against the black center bushing right? now they spin freely together...