To make a Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator
what do you think of this:
To make a Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator: Start with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator Bosch #0 280 160 001. It was used after 1968 on the Bosch D-Jetronic cars: VW Type III 68-73, Porsche 914 70-76 1.7L or 2L, Saab 69-74, Volvo, Renault 72-74. You need to drill a hole across the bottom of the screw, then drill a hole down the length to meet that hole. The lengthwise hole is difficult to drill by hand so you will probably need a machinist to do it on a lathe. Once you get the hole drilled, solder a piece of tubing into the hole. The local hardware store should have a small piece of brass tubing.
To solder to steel, it has to be freshly ground, not wire wheeled, or sanded. You can use regular electrical solder, 60 / 40, rosin core. If the top of the bolt has just been kissed on a grinding wheel, solder will stick to it just like copper!
Remember: When you get done soldering the brass or steel line into the top of the bolt, make sure you can blow through it. (After it cools off that is)
do you think this will work
To make a Turbo Fuel Pressure Regulator: Start with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator Bosch #0 280 160 001. It was used after 1968 on the Bosch D-Jetronic cars: VW Type III 68-73, Porsche 914 70-76 1.7L or 2L, Saab 69-74, Volvo, Renault 72-74. You need to drill a hole across the bottom of the screw, then drill a hole down the length to meet that hole. The lengthwise hole is difficult to drill by hand so you will probably need a machinist to do it on a lathe. Once you get the hole drilled, solder a piece of tubing into the hole. The local hardware store should have a small piece of brass tubing.
To solder to steel, it has to be freshly ground, not wire wheeled, or sanded. You can use regular electrical solder, 60 / 40, rosin core. If the top of the bolt has just been kissed on a grinding wheel, solder will stick to it just like copper!
Remember: When you get done soldering the brass or steel line into the top of the bolt, make sure you can blow through it. (After it cools off that is)
do you think this will work

i was thinking about this too.
on my integra, the outer body of the fpr is about 3/4" in diameter. a 3/4 plumbing cap would fit it. cut off the old fpr top, jbweld on the cap with a locknut soldered to the top of it and a pressure port soldered to the side. seal it with RTV silicone. use a bolt through the screw in the top to adjust the preload on the spring in the regulator. this would allow you to raise or lower the pressure.
plenty of GM guys have done it this way with good results. i don't see why it wouldn't work.
on my integra, the outer body of the fpr is about 3/4" in diameter. a 3/4 plumbing cap would fit it. cut off the old fpr top, jbweld on the cap with a locknut soldered to the top of it and a pressure port soldered to the side. seal it with RTV silicone. use a bolt through the screw in the top to adjust the preload on the spring in the regulator. this would allow you to raise or lower the pressure.
plenty of GM guys have done it this way with good results. i don't see why it wouldn't work.
Yes it does work. I've got one. summit sells this also. Exactly as you describe. However, the rise is 1:1 no rate change. It's justs adds boost reference to an otherwise adjustable regulator. D jet was neat. I guess I'm one of the few grey hairs here 
regards,
Mike

regards,
Mike
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