are there any device that could protect against detonation?how well do they work?

 

i've got a machine you hook up to power and rest the device between your legs and once you floor your car youll feel the protection from detonation.

 

My ears seem to do a very good job in my car...pop pop bang bang....let off the damn gas! Go back and turn the timing down a little bit more.

 

find some one with a yband sensor check your air fule make shure its not leaner then 12-1 im running 10.5-1 in my car so that i have less risk of blowing my engine its less horse power but not that much
also use the highest octane gas you can get

 

Does adding more fuel make it as worst as going to lean and get detonation?
Or would it just give off bad milege?

 

From what I gathered, running rich take would resulted less horse power... someone did a dyno before, think it might have been on this forum and yes it would give me a bad mileage. However some people also suggested running too rich could have the deadly effect of bore wash?

 

ok well runing rich will give you a little les power a bit worse gas milage and a beter chance of not blowing your engine
it will get rid of detanation
im not say way rich cuz that will smoke and your car will run like ---- im talking a little rich
like optimal power before detanation is 12-1 air fule ratio im running 10.5-1 for saftey but i lose that 10 horse wich im willing to sacrifice to ceap my engine alive for longer my car is a daily driver

 

10 is ------- rich. most hondas run from 11.5-12.5, and thats still a pretty big range.

there is a point you come to where you decide if you want better gas mileage or to not blow up.

but once you get to that point, you have a few options, run higher octane or retard the timing some.

 

Running to rich or retarded isn't all too healthy either now. You can have a miss if it's too retarded and acutally cause some more heat. 10.5:1 is a little rich in my mind and 11.5:1 is kind of rich and I really wouldn't go richer than that. My opinion, but I don't tune so....


JP

 

Detonation is pretty much when the fuel charge pre-ignites or ignites too soon due to heat or another issue. The clanging or banging sound someone spoke of is your piston still trying to travel upwards due to inertia, as your fuel is exploding and trying to force it back before it reaches its peak travel point. Adding more fuel won't stop detonation if it's still igniting before the piston reaches it's peak. That's where retarding timing comes in to play, whether it be manually moving the dizzy, or through a ecu or add on mod such as a chipped ecu running TE or Uberdata, or such as a MSD BTM box. Load detonation occurs when your octane rating isn't high enough to resist the pre-ignition process, which usually occurs right after the fuel is injected into the cylinder while the engine is under load i.e. heavy boost, uphill climb, stuff like that. Hope this helps a little