My car hates me... Turbo problems.
Alright, so I've been trying to get my 240 ka-t running for a bit now and it just doesn't seem to want to work right.... I've got a couple problems.....
I'm only getting 1 lb of boost..... I know my exhaust manifold leaks some, but how much of a leak does it take to only make 1 lb? I've checked for boost leaks and there aren't any obvious ones.
I know I need a wideband.. but untill then... I've got a safc and it's tuned off someone elses setup... I know it's not the same, but it should still run decent. At about 5k in first it starts couging/sputtering kinda like fuel cut. Same thing with about 3.5 in 2nd, 3k in 3rd and about any time it gets under load such as up a hill.... Tuning? Related to the boost leak if there is one? Who knows.
And then today I was giving it a test drive to see if the boost leak I did find and fixed was the problem, all of the sudden the tach drops to 0 and kinda spazzes out. The car stalls but i'm still rolling, so I try to bump it by dropping it into 2nd. You could hear the engine spin some, but the tach stayed dead. I have spark at least from the coil, and you can hear the fuel pump prime. I came back to the car about 2 hours later because I had to go to a hockey game. I came back to the car and tried starting it. It started for all of 2 seconds and then died again and just cranks.
I need help!!!!
I'm only getting 1 lb of boost..... I know my exhaust manifold leaks some, but how much of a leak does it take to only make 1 lb? I've checked for boost leaks and there aren't any obvious ones.
I know I need a wideband.. but untill then... I've got a safc and it's tuned off someone elses setup... I know it's not the same, but it should still run decent. At about 5k in first it starts couging/sputtering kinda like fuel cut. Same thing with about 3.5 in 2nd, 3k in 3rd and about any time it gets under load such as up a hill.... Tuning? Related to the boost leak if there is one? Who knows.
And then today I was giving it a test drive to see if the boost leak I did find and fixed was the problem, all of the sudden the tach drops to 0 and kinda spazzes out. The car stalls but i'm still rolling, so I try to bump it by dropping it into 2nd. You could hear the engine spin some, but the tach stayed dead. I have spark at least from the coil, and you can hear the fuel pump prime. I came back to the car about 2 hours later because I had to go to a hockey game. I came back to the car and tried starting it. It started for all of 2 seconds and then died again and just cranks.
I need help!!!!
check your battery.. i remember my tach died but the car ran (with bouncing idle) on my way to school once, ended up being my alternator was taking a ---- on me, and the battery was running on fumes
is it wet in your area? for a while I was running charge pipes on my N/A, that weren't completely welded together. what happens when you get a few drops of water in your system? duhduhduhduhduh bleh.. sounded like a fuel cut but my O2 was reading fine, and re-starting the engine sounded more like it was full of fuel (it was water
)
- battery/alternator
- charge pipe leaks
is it wet in your area? for a while I was running charge pipes on my N/A, that weren't completely welded together. what happens when you get a few drops of water in your system? duhduhduhduhduh bleh.. sounded like a fuel cut but my O2 was reading fine, and re-starting the engine sounded more like it was full of fuel (it was water
)- battery/alternator
- charge pipe leaks
ill check my alternator... I checked my battery connections in the trunk and under the hood, because i had that problem once.
For pressure in the crankcase... I've just got the breather on top unhooked and sitting there... Then, the pcv valve was the one with the hard plastic piping off the mani into the box? if so, It's plugged on the manifold side and open on the engine side.. is there something im missing?
For pressure in the crankcase... I've just got the breather on top unhooked and sitting there... Then, the pcv valve was the one with the hard plastic piping off the mani into the box? if so, It's plugged on the manifold side and open on the engine side.. is there something im missing?
on a somewhat unrelated note, did you foul your plugs out running rich? You may want to inspect them if you havent already. Since the SAFC was tuned for higher boost, and you were running only 1 lb, the extra fuel may have fouled them, i'm not saying this is the source of any of your problems, but may just want to check...
Checked the spark plug on #1 cylinder. Looks perfect... they were replaced like a week ago.. I also leaned the setting out to almost stock.
How should I check the alternator? Visually it's good, but that doesn't count for much.
I fixed another boost leak, but now I'm sure there aren't any more.
The intake is all hooked up, no leaks.
Last night starting it I nuked the battery down to 8 volts... headlights and stereo while the car isn't running will do that. I hooked up the jumper cables just now, I tried starting the car again, and just like last night, it started first try for like a second, then the tach bounced from 0, then back to l ike 1k, and then died and just cranks. WTF?!!?!@$#$# HELP!
How should I check the alternator? Visually it's good, but that doesn't count for much.
I fixed another boost leak, but now I'm sure there aren't any more.
The intake is all hooked up, no leaks.
Last night starting it I nuked the battery down to 8 volts... headlights and stereo while the car isn't running will do that. I hooked up the jumper cables just now, I tried starting the car again, and just like last night, it started first try for like a second, then the tach bounced from 0, then back to l ike 1k, and then died and just cranks. WTF?!!?!@$#$# HELP!
^ yea definetely sounds like your alternator. try tapping on the solenoid gently with a scewdriver, and if it starts up, then that was the problem. dont tape too hard.
but yea sounds like alternator.
matt
but yea sounds like alternator.
matt
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Oct 18, 2006 07:00 AM



