here i am again posting my nosense about my Shitty Civic that WONT do Dick for me. ( honda does really suck )

at first i thought it was the wiring or even possibly a short in the original DX wiring harness that i converted.. so i rewired it again , AGAIN!, AGAIN !!, and then i gave up on the harness. sigh
my friend traded me a EX Auto harness..(hurray 4 INJ's!!)
o pulled my old rats nest out.(and it was)I put the EX harness in. Well there where problems. EX has Tach. this one did. that means that the Cluster assembly plugs arn't the same. so i just un pined the new harness pins and used the Old cluster plug from the other wiring harness. ok no problem every thing works except for my hazards.

after desoldering the Female pins off the mother board off of the PM5 ( hehehe HEAT gun melts solder real good )
i was going to try so i could go back to Obd-0 but the 1 of the pings broke and that was washed up. I cut all the plugs did by the numbers ETC.ETC..ETC...

ok finished
got CEL/MIL #6
6= ECT~engine coolant Temprature short or open.
that was solved.. using trailer hitch plugs for the 6 pin plug that the Automatic has.

turn car on. PGMFI relay is a GO!
turn the car over..1,2,3,4,5,6~25,~30,stop trying to start the car.
No Cel/MIL once more.
my grounds are ok. and are tight

... in the very begining. there was major SHORT!
the blew the main 60amp Fuse. is it possible that it fried that ELD. the out side fuse box is only part that has not be replaced or tested and is not NEW.


falkhen
in the end there is always fire.
stinky obd1 conversion
did i post in the right part of the Forum ( who cares! )

 

I see no one replied so i will give you my best shot...

from all the info supplied int he post(im not a regular here so i dont know if theres a background information) It sounds like you have been having many headaches with wiring!

this is what caught my eye:
have you checked for spark? then have you checked for fuel at the injectors? I have a high miliage 89 crx si, and had MAJOR electricle problems recently cascade upon me all at once.

I would check to see if theres spark, if not, try to replace the coil, if that doesnt work, check the ignitor.

It took me about a month or so to track all my electricle no start demons down, give me an email if you like.

Hope this helped somewhat. Good luck!

 

well..

lets see..
the Distributor is NEW!! i have 2 obd1 dizzy's they both work.. and are good..
I have good working ECU tested.. retested..

my wiring harness is out of a 91 EX auto.
my obd1 plugs are soldered in.
my grounds are good and correct. (VERY CLEAN)

No im not getting Spark.
No im not getting enough output from the ECU to fire the Ignitor
No there is no fuel being pumped in by the injectors..( though they are getting 12volts.( obd1 injectors)
Yes the Fuel Pump Works
yes it comes on Key on engine off
AND THE WORST PART ABOUT THIS IS THERE ARE NO CEL/MIL
NO GOD DAMN FUCKEN REASON WHY THIS CAR SHOULDN'T START!!!

yeah im pissed... im tired listening to crack heads tell me that my ----.. that i have tested documented tested again Replaced and tested in other cars and it works fine...
distributor..BRAND NEW 0 miles...Complete assembly test good on another car.. and wont work on mine
ECU tested good on another car wont work in mine
Fuel is Comes on ( you can here it you can see it spray gas( when you open the pressue releife (12mm screw))
fuel injectors have 12 volts and are obd1
Map is good( unpluged threw code )
TPS messured voltage range from close throttle to WOT with in specs
PGMFI relay is clciking and passing volts to pump and injectors and to ECU.

i have newer Engine bay fuse box.. ( on the idea the ELD is bad) NO DICE!!
i unpluged the Distributor.. ok...listen carfully..ok..
well READ>>>*******<<<...lol
unpluged the distributor plug and cranked the motor.. ( i know it wont start but im testing for CEL/MIL code..
THE ONLY CODE I GOT WAS TDC....what in the fucken hell
should be like damn christmas with flashing lights...well CEL at least..i get only one code TDC..haha and that was after 45 seconds of cranking the ---- out of the motor...poor starter.. going to die before the engine ever starts. There should have been more. codes...!!!!

all code i can get the ECU to throw.
6 ECT - water temperature sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
8 TDC - top dead centre sensor
5 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
O2 Heat
TDC..
and few others.. im tired.. of ranting *PANT* *PANT* :P

---- ----!!! i did an LS SWAP in CRX HF.. and that car runs fine.. but No my Car is Cursed. Mocking me with is stillness in the parking spot that people say " hey your going move you car. it don't run right." i just want to say ---- YOU *** HOLE MIND YOUR OWN DAMN BUSNIESS!!

ok im out of control.. but i hope you get my point.
1 year..Oct 31 thats how long it will be since it was running last.


Falkhen
watch your tounge or I rip it out and stuff it up.YOUR ***

 

What ecu are you using

 

have u tried boosting ur car
maybe ur battery is dead and soesnt have enough juice to turn the starter

I guarantee its something stupid like that

 

so u put a 90-91 Auto ex harness into a 88 DX, what made u think that it would work?

i can almost gaurantee the wires are different in the shock tower plugs.

 

why wouldn't it

its the same ---- all the way around and small changed in the Cluster plug and door wiring and don't for get the rear harness sub plug ..

ok i used my old plugs and did away with the ---- that wasn't in my car and other parts are fine...

No the battery is Good.
this battery is out of my Datsun. which is running far better then its little parnter the Civic
the datusn is using the Civic battery..both batterys are less then 6 months old
and hold charge


can any one that has done a Obd0 to obd1 swap explain.

what would stop the ecu from making the egnine run.
ECU is good. ( works in other cars)( i have 2 ecu's p28 and p0
2 distributors 1 original po8 other for D16 (new)

wiring harness from some 4 door civic EX
cluster stock Dx
cabin fuse box DX
have 2 of those Egnine fuse box ( been swaped out)

i don't understand why i can't get Crank or Cylinder codes.
i get TDC when the distributor plug is un pluged.
but not CYK or CRANK
every thing else i can pull code if unpluged

so far what i think that fuel injection is on Event with Crank sensor or Cylinder.
and since i can't pass code. there has to be a problem.

im going to hot jump cyk and crank from the dizzy to the ECU..( yeah it run like ---- but it will prove there is a short in the wiring)

and if that does not work.. i don't know..
becuase everything else is working like it suppose to.

PGMFI relay. (i got a good spare i used that too Same!!)
got power to start signal circuit
Got power to ECU up on Key on engine off
fuel pump comes on for set amount seconds to prime fuel system and shuts off. and while starting it is on.
fuel injectors are getting 12 volts ( there original po8 obd1 )

i just thought of somthing.
what if the Timing belt was broke ( never seen becuase the inspection covers are still on. that would be a bitch to find out.)
since the motor was in a bone yard in japan and then shipped in a container to the US. and then sat for few months.

well i did see it and it look wasn't broken.. when i changed the original 92-95 engine side mount to 88-91 mount
nah then it would be making mechanical noise. i would be all over that in a heart beat.


what would cause p28 Ecu not send signal to distributor.
i get tone for continuity check with multi meter..on all dizzy wires.

does any one know of the Fail safes that the p28 has built into it that would disable it.
i understand grounding is one of them

hold up a second.
on the p08 motor the Alternator is the still JDM p08 stock.
should i use the older 88 alternator.
im really guessing.


falkhen
This concludes this episode of falkhen can't get his car running.

 

wow.. im completely lost at what you did to your car.

start from day 1. The last time the car was running...

what did u do since it was running to make it not run, what wiring have your replace (be it cabin OR engine wiring).

what ecu. what conv harness (obd0-obd1??)

what you have replace to test, dist etc. ?

Im sorry if u've said this but im completely confused at what's been done between running and not running of this car.

 

day1
i bought the car for poultry sum of $800 Cash
it was blue with Hidious air brush flame well Crap what it looked like.

well im just kidding.. ok i'll start with the point of the conversion

0ct 25 the car injested some water and stalled..
i contiued to run the car (knocking) so i could get to school.
then Friday of 2003 OCT 31st(50pm) coming back from Machineing class the motor exploded. laying its guts all over the place.

after having it towed to the house. i left it sit for about 4 weeks.( to gather some cash ) and i ordered a D15b Vtec motor. for $514 shipped ( with backwards wiring harness)
i bought p08 ECu from Thailand.( unfortunatly it was Automatic version)
unable to find someone to test the ECU in i put away ( to collect dust)and bought an P28 from Canada that was chipped
i tested it in some Gullable ricer ( some guatamlen kid..forgot his name) and it started up and ran find both in stock and chipped mode ( it was switchable..)
i removed my D15b1 motor& tranny
bolted the d15b vtec motor to my 4speed.
droped in noproblems there.
while examining the JDM wiring harness it was in pretty bad shap. so i decied to pull what i could use and build a homemade one.( how hard can it be.. it really isn't hard. i built obd0 ones )

after building the harness somthing was not right. so the there was short POP!! 60amp fuse blew...oh ---- shorted circuit. i trace the short repaire it and replace the 60 amp. Before installing the 60amp i made low amp fuse jumping for testing and clearing the shorts just say it never blew after the first short was found. then i put the big fuse in.

i cut the and soldered the harness and add the wires to the Fuel injectors and ran all custom wiring except for the 6" of wire from each plug.
before running each sensor to the either left of right side of the engine i using masking tap to lable the sensor or Wire aproprietly.( no mistakes )

ok using the Original 14 ping obd0 plugs i ran every thing through except the 2 dizzy wires ( not on TBI system )
ran out side along the main engine harness loom
to the Ecu and continuity was checked to each sensor to test for conectivity.
at first i turn the power on and the pop Cell code
TPS
ok i look at it and its wired wrong.. (i fix that )
ok no more TPS CEL
ECT cel, Fix that
and nothing else
ok should start
turn on the car pgmfi relay clicks on for about 3 or so seconds engine lite goes off and start the car.. and Nothing. so i check for spark
No Spark
Check for Fuel pressure
Yep there fuel pressure i burp the Fuel rail by loosing up the Fuel regulator and the 12mm bolt on the Fuel filter.
so i check the distributor wiring with the Ecu check for continuity again. every thing is ok and as it should
i messure voltage to the ECU
its low like 1.5 volts as i start it the voltage drops to .5~.2 but never 0. so i figure its some ground problem
so i add another ground to the Main black ground under the Center consule and another ground for the Shield wires.

still no dice. No inject pulse no Spark..heh
i get to thinking and talking to one of my friend online and suggest replacing the sensor. sure why not!
well after posted in classified ad's for distributor and some one replys i sell you one 40 shipped.. ok.. sure then he changed his mind and says 50. i SAY ---- YOU ( if you say your going sell somthing for 40 and then change to 50 you should stuff it up your ***. just say hey 50 bucks i wouldn't minded either..) after that idiot pulled that ---- i went bought a brand new distributor from Distributor King.
for 136. plus 13 shipping.( there prices have gone up since then ) ok Brand NEw Complete distributor. for D16Z6 to match the p28 ECU. i re check every plug and every sensor before installing this Dizzy. and I was hoping it was just a dizzy sensor. and it WAS NOT!!!
the car rotates but will not start.
there is no Spark
There is no Fuel at the Injectors
There is no CEL/MIL
every plug has been check for a Short and continuity to the ECU pins .
every thing pass beep test and nothing has short.
still no start.
i unplug the map
pop map Cel
replug map and unplug TPS
pop TPS Cel
replug TPS unpluge ECT
pop ECT CEL
also i noted IACV is making noise.. ( possible ground fualt problem.)can't find any problems with ground.
unplug IACV it pop CEl to.
ok.i unpluge the distributor and Crank the motor.
i don't pop any Cel's :P

well crap
so few months go buy and i volteer to do a LS bod0 swap for some one. heh.
they trade me a EX cabin wiring harness.
matter of moments im home yanking out the Rats nest in my car. few hours later. im done

the following day i build a Completely New Engine bay harness. and i repeat the testing process.
this time i pop TDC. unlike last time.
after crank the motor with distributor disconnected.
should also had other codes.
but nothing.
every thing else checks out fine.

Final symtoms.
No spark
No fuel injector push( injector not firing)
there is fuel pressure
PGMFI relay is working
ECU is geting 12 volts from Relay
and has good grounds (check for continuity)
ecu is getting every thing that all the inputs it should be getting but its not working.
all sensor inputs are good and are verifiable
all ground are clean and have continuity trough the body
pgmfi relay works ( also test a spare with same effect no start)
the main engine fuse box replaced ( on the Hopes ELD is jaked) nope No effect

seriously im tired.. of this..but im noting going give up. becuse some jack *** said to move my car from the parking space.(---- that guy!)
the battery is fully charged

every thing goes like it should but it will not start.
its somthing to do with the ECU and the Distributor
i know TDC sensor works
so those 2 wires are ok.
that leaves 4 plus ICM.

i don't pull code for anying else.



i hope this puts you back on track what happend.

ok this is EC auto cabin harness (it works)
homemade engine bay harness
that every thing checks out continuity wise. even did cross wire test. no crossed wires


falkhen
its over when the car is a smoldering pile of Ash.

 

omg this sounds like a huge pita!

maybe you have a wiring location @ the ecu confused.

emaning.. you think the CYL+ sensor wire is in the right spot but it's not. so the continuity checks are fine but the ecu has it in the wrong location.

if u wanna spit out your email address i can send you an MS Excel file that has all the obd-1 pinouts.