Automatic ecu PR3 Redline 7300...?
Ok, let me take a deeeep breath and try to explain what i have gone through, basicly hell
. In my 91 civic si I have a b16a2 with a pr3 ecu. I swapped this motor out of a dx 91 civic, all the problems where there before the swap. First, the car was running pretty rich i could smell the fuel and it kicked out some blueish smoke at high revs NOTE: no O2 sensor for some reason. I replaced the o2 sensor got a little better but still running rich. NOTE: no engine codes and the thing can hardly idle when its real cold out but after it warms it idles around 1200-1400.
So, next i replace the whole damn T.B. & sensors and all; i get all excited thinking this is it......
NOPE! same crap but little better. NOTE: Tach has a mind of its own the whole time works when it feels like it. By now im ticked and i stop messing with the sensors since i replaced almost any sensor that would effect my idle/ f/a mix. Plan 2, I will get the tach working maybe by some chance in hell that will have something to do with it. So, I cut the wire from the Distributor output for the tach and tap it into my MSD box tach out. HELL YES I HAVE A TACH, but for some reason it wont rev past 7300. I have a pr3 ecu and a b16a2 is the tach ready wrong or what is the deal ecu bad? also, now when i getting off the interstate if i just let the car rev down instead of pushing in the clutch i get a Check engine light but obviously i cant see it when im driving.
Any ideas on any of these problems would be greatly appreciated.
THanks for your time,
Charlie
. In my 91 civic si I have a b16a2 with a pr3 ecu. I swapped this motor out of a dx 91 civic, all the problems where there before the swap. First, the car was running pretty rich i could smell the fuel and it kicked out some blueish smoke at high revs NOTE: no O2 sensor for some reason. I replaced the o2 sensor got a little better but still running rich. NOTE: no engine codes and the thing can hardly idle when its real cold out but after it warms it idles around 1200-1400.So, next i replace the whole damn T.B. & sensors and all; i get all excited thinking this is it......
NOPE! same crap but little better. NOTE: Tach has a mind of its own the whole time works when it feels like it. By now im ticked and i stop messing with the sensors since i replaced almost any sensor that would effect my idle/ f/a mix. Plan 2, I will get the tach working maybe by some chance in hell that will have something to do with it. So, I cut the wire from the Distributor output for the tach and tap it into my MSD box tach out. HELL YES I HAVE A TACH, but for some reason it wont rev past 7300. I have a pr3 ecu and a b16a2 is the tach ready wrong or what is the deal ecu bad? also, now when i getting off the interstate if i just let the car rev down instead of pushing in the clutch i get a Check engine light but obviously i cant see it when im driving.Any ideas on any of these problems would be greatly appreciated.

THanks for your time,
Charlie
check your idle air control valve. It might be really dirty, so clean her out!! I have a similar problem where it idles up and down between 200 and 1200... im going to clean that sucker out in spring when i take my car out. right now its just too damn cold.
The codes are stored, so just turn your key to the on position and count the blinks on your ECU.
Long blink is a 10, short is a 1
short short short: 3
long short short short short: 14
long long: 20
Etc....
The ecu will keep flashing all stored codes, give long pause and then repeat.
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/codes.html
Long blink is a 10, short is a 1
short short short: 3
long short short short short: 14
long long: 20
Etc....
The ecu will keep flashing all stored codes, give long pause and then repeat.
http://tech.hybridgarage.com/tech/codes.html




ill let ya know,