future build
Thread Starter
0.0 BAR
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
future build
hey guys, I plan on getting an integra or b18 swapped civic in the future coz I dont feel good boosting my y8 so ok, thing is I hit ebay yesterday(cuz im broke) and I found an TD04L turbo out of a 02 wrx with 100k miles, auction is at like 15 buck, so just asking would it b a good buy? is that turbo any good? or im just better off spending on a t25, guess the question here would be, whats better t25 or td04l ? for a b18 stock internals (looking for about anywhere in between 200-250 whp maybe like 8 psi? dont know im the nub here
heres what he wrote
"Up for auction is a used 2002 Subaru TD04L turbo that came off at 100k and is in great shape. I did a swap project and put all the good WRX parts into my 2001 2.5 RS and upgraded the turbo about three months after the swap. This turbo will be fine any replacement or custom setup that you would like to modify it for, flanges can be had for cheap".
heres what he wrote
"Up for auction is a used 2002 Subaru TD04L turbo that came off at 100k and is in great shape. I did a swap project and put all the good WRX parts into my 2001 2.5 RS and upgraded the turbo about three months after the swap. This turbo will be fine any replacement or custom setup that you would like to modify it for, flanges can be had for cheap".
0.0 BAR
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 33
From: New Brighton, PA
You'd be much better off going with a 14b from a DSM along with a 2g DSM manifold modded to fit. Then I'd get my hands on a set of 450cc injectors and a resistor box. You can run it with an AFC and be able to make your horsepower goals. I don't know if 8 lbs would be enough though. I ran 12 lbs daily through my B18A and it made 256WHP but I had a T3/T4.
Thread Starter
0.0 BAR
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
You'd be much better off going with a 14b from a DSM along with a 2g DSM manifold modded to fit. Then I'd get my hands on a set of 450cc injectors and a resistor box. You can run it with an AFC and be able to make your horsepower goals. I don't know if 8 lbs would be enough though. I ran 12 lbs daily through my B18A and it made 256WHP but I had a T3/T4.
0.0 BAR
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 33
From: New Brighton, PA
Well, the first thing I did when I turboed my B18 was buy the turbo so your dead on on that one. You could rebuild that turbo but you'd never make your money back out of it. Those TD04L turbos (while they are small enough to spool fast and CAN make some power) aren't exactly what I would want to work with to start out.
You'd have to get a manifold and cut off the old flange and weld a new one on to match the inlet of the exhaust manifold. Then (depending on which way the O2 housing is pointing) you'd have to figure out a custom routing for your downpipe. Honestly I was going budget build and it was actually the first time I'd ever played with the notion of forced induction so I didn't really know what all I needed. G2IC.com was where I started because my car was a 92. Read up ALOT. Believe me, the more you know the easier it is.
I ended up buying a manifold, downpipe, and some flanges from SSAUTOCHROME when they first hit the scene for $250. I knew I wanted a turbo that was a decent size and still have a T3 design so I went with a turbo from a Dodge Daytona. I rebuilt it for $100 with a rebuild kit on Ebay. These turbos are called TB03 and have a basic T3 design. I bought an exhaust housing from a T3 out of a Thunderbird Turbocoupe and put that on so it would bolt right to my manifold.
I ended up using a ZDyne Gold SECU for engine management. It was really expensive but worth every penny. I used a set of 390cc injectors from an automatic DSM because I knew that I wasn't going to be running much boost on a stock internal engine. Then I modified a side mount intercooler from a DSM to fit right where my stock airbox sat because I knew it was going to get air sitting there. I used a stock DSM BOV and rubber piping so it worked out beautifully. At 12 lbs I made 256 whp and 224 lb ft of torque on a stock internal B18A1.
The good thing about Hondas is they all have EPROM ECUs. Not all DSM's do and if you DO find an EPROM ECU they run about $250-$300 plus socketing and chipping. Then you have to find a keydiver just to burn you a custom chip. DSMLink wants close to $600 for the latest version and you have to pay to ship your ECU there and they have to install it.
It was a long road for my Integra. I ended up blowing my YS1 apart and I scrapped it. The car had 180,000 miles on it and I had already totalled it by bending the rear trailing arm support and then stretched it back out with an acetylene torch and a come along so it was time to give up on it. I had the car for 4 years. If you have any more questions hit me up. I know I didn't want to hear it when I was younger but honestly the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell can help you temendously.
You'd have to get a manifold and cut off the old flange and weld a new one on to match the inlet of the exhaust manifold. Then (depending on which way the O2 housing is pointing) you'd have to figure out a custom routing for your downpipe. Honestly I was going budget build and it was actually the first time I'd ever played with the notion of forced induction so I didn't really know what all I needed. G2IC.com was where I started because my car was a 92. Read up ALOT. Believe me, the more you know the easier it is.
I ended up buying a manifold, downpipe, and some flanges from SSAUTOCHROME when they first hit the scene for $250. I knew I wanted a turbo that was a decent size and still have a T3 design so I went with a turbo from a Dodge Daytona. I rebuilt it for $100 with a rebuild kit on Ebay. These turbos are called TB03 and have a basic T3 design. I bought an exhaust housing from a T3 out of a Thunderbird Turbocoupe and put that on so it would bolt right to my manifold.
I ended up using a ZDyne Gold SECU for engine management. It was really expensive but worth every penny. I used a set of 390cc injectors from an automatic DSM because I knew that I wasn't going to be running much boost on a stock internal engine. Then I modified a side mount intercooler from a DSM to fit right where my stock airbox sat because I knew it was going to get air sitting there. I used a stock DSM BOV and rubber piping so it worked out beautifully. At 12 lbs I made 256 whp and 224 lb ft of torque on a stock internal B18A1.
The good thing about Hondas is they all have EPROM ECUs. Not all DSM's do and if you DO find an EPROM ECU they run about $250-$300 plus socketing and chipping. Then you have to find a keydiver just to burn you a custom chip. DSMLink wants close to $600 for the latest version and you have to pay to ship your ECU there and they have to install it.
It was a long road for my Integra. I ended up blowing my YS1 apart and I scrapped it. The car had 180,000 miles on it and I had already totalled it by bending the rear trailing arm support and then stretched it back out with an acetylene torch and a come along so it was time to give up on it. I had the car for 4 years. If you have any more questions hit me up. I know I didn't want to hear it when I was younger but honestly the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell can help you temendously.
Thread Starter
0.0 BAR
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3
Well, the first thing I did when I turboed my B18 was buy the turbo so your dead on on that one. You could rebuild that turbo but you'd never make your money back out of it. Those TD04L turbos (while they are small enough to spool fast and CAN make some power) aren't exactly what I would want to work with to start out.
You'd have to get a manifold and cut off the old flange and weld a new one on to match the inlet of the exhaust manifold. Then (depending on which way the O2 housing is pointing) you'd have to figure out a custom routing for your downpipe. Honestly I was going budget build and it was actually the first time I'd ever played with the notion of forced induction so I didn't really know what all I needed. G2IC.com was where I started because my car was a 92. Read up ALOT. Believe me, the more you know the easier it is.
I ended up buying a manifold, downpipe, and some flanges from SSAUTOCHROME when they first hit the scene for $250. I knew I wanted a turbo that was a decent size and still have a T3 design so I went with a turbo from a Dodge Daytona. I rebuilt it for $100 with a rebuild kit on Ebay. These turbos are called TB03 and have a basic T3 design. I bought an exhaust housing from a T3 out of a Thunderbird Turbocoupe and put that on so it would bolt right to my manifold.
I ended up using a ZDyne Gold SECU for engine management. It was really expensive but worth every penny. I injectors from aused a set of 390cc n automatic DSM because I knew that I wasn't going to be on a stock internal engine. Then I modified a side mount intercooler from a DSM to fit right where my stock airbox sat because I knew it was going to get air sitting there. I used a stock DSM BOV and rubber piping so it running much boost worked out beautifully. At 12 lbs I made 256 whp and 224 lb ft of torque on a stock internal B18A1.
The good thing about Hondas is they all have EPROM ECUs. Not all DSM's do and if you DO find an EPROM ECU they run about $250-$300 plus socketing and chipping. Then you have to find a keydiver just to burn you a custom chip. DSMLink wants close to $600 for the latest version and you have to pay to ship your ECU there and they have to install it.
It was a long road for my Integra. I ended up blowing my YS1 apart and I scrapped it. The car had 180,000 miles on it and I had already totalled it by bending the rear trailing arm support and then stretched it back out with an acetylene torch and a come along so it was time to give up on it. I had the car for 4 years. If you have any more questions hit me up. I know I didn't want to hear it when I was younger but honestly the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell can help you temendously.
You'd have to get a manifold and cut off the old flange and weld a new one on to match the inlet of the exhaust manifold. Then (depending on which way the O2 housing is pointing) you'd have to figure out a custom routing for your downpipe. Honestly I was going budget build and it was actually the first time I'd ever played with the notion of forced induction so I didn't really know what all I needed. G2IC.com was where I started because my car was a 92. Read up ALOT. Believe me, the more you know the easier it is.
I ended up buying a manifold, downpipe, and some flanges from SSAUTOCHROME when they first hit the scene for $250. I knew I wanted a turbo that was a decent size and still have a T3 design so I went with a turbo from a Dodge Daytona. I rebuilt it for $100 with a rebuild kit on Ebay. These turbos are called TB03 and have a basic T3 design. I bought an exhaust housing from a T3 out of a Thunderbird Turbocoupe and put that on so it would bolt right to my manifold.
I ended up using a ZDyne Gold SECU for engine management. It was really expensive but worth every penny. I injectors from aused a set of 390cc n automatic DSM because I knew that I wasn't going to be on a stock internal engine. Then I modified a side mount intercooler from a DSM to fit right where my stock airbox sat because I knew it was going to get air sitting there. I used a stock DSM BOV and rubber piping so it running much boost worked out beautifully. At 12 lbs I made 256 whp and 224 lb ft of torque on a stock internal B18A1.
The good thing about Hondas is they all have EPROM ECUs. Not all DSM's do and if you DO find an EPROM ECU they run about $250-$300 plus socketing and chipping. Then you have to find a keydiver just to burn you a custom chip. DSMLink wants close to $600 for the latest version and you have to pay to ship your ECU there and they have to install it.
It was a long road for my Integra. I ended up blowing my YS1 apart and I scrapped it. The car had 180,000 miles on it and I had already totalled it by bending the rear trailing arm support and then stretched it back out with an acetylene torch and a come along so it was time to give up on it. I had the car for 4 years. If you have any more questions hit me up. I know I didn't want to hear it when I was younger but honestly the book Maximum Boost by Corky Bell can help you temendously.
what im most worried about is about engine management (wich I think would be the last thing on my list) I plan on buying the turbo, then manifold, ebay piping and intercooler maybe a knock off bov the type rs, then its off to some shop or any freaking one who can weld the oil pan lines and then for engine management coz im as broke as a joke I was thinking about runing a basemap for a while until I can get $ to do a street tune " iknow some guys who do it for 100 bucks)
nother question, what rpms did ure turbo spool at? im looking for fast spool and not a lot of boost probably about 220 whp would b fine
0.0 BAR
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 33
From: New Brighton, PA
To answer the first question...I got 28-30 mpg all day (except when you get into the fun pedal that is). Second, I was using a .48/.63 AR turbo so I was in full spool by about 3500 RPM. You'd be better of getting a 13g from an automatic DSM. They are a TD04 and they spool a little easier and fast than a 14b and can make some decent power.
0.5 BAR
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 60
To answer the first question...I got 28-30 mpg all day (except when you get into the fun pedal that is). Second, I was using a .48/.63 AR turbo so I was in full spool by about 3500 RPM. You'd be better of getting a 13g from an automatic DSM. They are a TD04 and they spool a little easier and fast than a 14b and can make some decent power.
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