zc d15 turbo
you tell me 
12-13-2004, 08:22 PM
#32
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 41
Re:zc d15 turbo
first off i used a p06 ecu. i didnt need to use a conversion harness because i used the d15 throttle body(now upgraded) and a del sol b16 distributor. and yeah it's a d16a1 from an 89 integra but it had a brown top?
i dont know too much about the EF so i assumed its the zc.
it seems both head are identical any ways because thats (the zc) is what i order my head gaskets for.
i dont know too much about the EF so i assumed its the zc.
it seems both head are identical any ways because thats (the zc) is what i order my head gaskets for.
Posted by: baseballinmyass Posted on: Today at 02:28:56pm
oh by the way you only need to bore out one hole in the top left hand corner. the center top bolt you need to tap and redrill to 10x1.25 and use the bolt from the zc, because there is a platform in the haed that sticks up about a 1/2" higher than the d 15 head studs.
oh by the way you only need to bore out one hole in the top left hand corner. the center top bolt you need to tap and redrill to 10x1.25 and use the bolt from the zc, because there is a platform in the haed that sticks up about a 1/2" higher than the d 15 head studs.
12-14-2004, 02:25 AM
#35
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,991
Re:zc d15 turbo
2g Blacktop ZC intake manifolds flow better then the D16a1 IM's and the brown top ZC's. all A1/ZC twin cam Intake manifolds are swappable.
hmm, only one hole had to be bored out eh? For some reason I could of swore it was 2 holes? What did you do about timing belt and crank gear? The ZC uses a smaller gear on the timing belt, did you just use a ZC one?
I was unaware that Crower even made rods for the D15, I guess when you spend 600 dollars from them you should be able to get a set of rods for just about any 4 cylinder possible.
This is a pretty cool setup, Curious did you chamfer your oil passages in the block to match the ZC ports?
Keep us updated!
hmm, only one hole had to be bored out eh? For some reason I could of swore it was 2 holes? What did you do about timing belt and crank gear? The ZC uses a smaller gear on the timing belt, did you just use a ZC one?
I was unaware that Crower even made rods for the D15, I guess when you spend 600 dollars from them you should be able to get a set of rods for just about any 4 cylinder possible.
This is a pretty cool setup, Curious did you chamfer your oil passages in the block to match the ZC ports?
Keep us updated!
12-14-2004, 03:42 PM
#37
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,380
Re:zc d15 turbo
Originally Posted by whiterice
d16a1: valve cover bolts are on the inside.
zc: outside.
(julio lesson)
zc: outside.
(julio lesson)
that and the 88-89 tegs vaccum lines are in the front as hte 87-88's are in the back and front
12-14-2004, 04:42 PM
#38
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 41
Re:zc d15 turbo
i just kept the d 15 crank timing gear and used 2 d 15 timing gears up top. if you have a zc head gasket and a d15 head gasket handy look at the oil passages they line right up. the coolant holes dont line up perfectly but so close it dosent matter. ie the zc holes are oblong where as the d 15 are round or vice versa or whatever.
12-14-2004, 04:49 PM
#39
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Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 5,380
Re:zc d15 turbo
Originally Posted by baseballinmyass
i just kept the d 15 crank timing gear and used 2 d 15 timing gears up top. if you have a zc head gasket and a d15 head gasket handy look at the oil passages they line right up. the coolant holes dont line up perfectly but so close it dosent matter. ie the zc holes are oblong where as the d 15 are round or vice versa or whatever.
Btw do you have pics of what needed to have been grinded ( grammar wasnt my strongest subject ) and what head bolt needed modding and what needed tapping? i like pics cause i suck with explanations...
12-14-2004, 10:18 PM
#40
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 41
Re:zc d15 turbo
this is the ---- you got to grind off. if you look in the picture by the motor mount you can see the bolt hole for the ps pump it needs to be cut so the mount can sit flush.
also the timing belt cover might have to be removed or cut so the belt will fit.
here is a diagram of the bolt fitment:
also heres a write up i did for h-t:
first to start you need to get arp head studs for a 95 civic. all of the old bolts wont fit. you need to save the longest head bolt from the zc. that head bolt is the top middle.then you need a head gasket (i used an mls) for a d15. the head gasket needs to be slightly modified. if your looking at the motor from the front, the hole on the top left(far top left). is over to right a little compared to the zc. i used an air grinder to oblong the hole a little. then do you remember that long bolt? it is a 10x1.5mm or something i cant remeber for sure but it is a little bigger than the d15 bolt holes. i just tapped it out so the long bolt (the first one in head torque sequence) will fit.
next get rid of the old distributor and that sensor peice of ---- on the cams. i used a del sol distributor for the si (b16) the distirbutor needs one of the feet cut off so it'll fit i tried setting #1 at all positons but it'll only work in the factory position. although now i dont think it matters since i got msd.
i had to use the zc manifold becuase of the bolt pattern.the fuel rail and injectors from my d15 bolted jsut fine with the exception of 1 hole which i think is similar to crx. if you go to an after market fuel rail and injectors later on you'll have problems. the bolts that come out of the zc manifold dont have the same riser(once again i think it the same as crx) i had to drill an oblong hole once again in my aem fuel rail even though it set up for crx and d15. also the fuel rail it sefl i had to drill 1/2" x 3/8" holes in the original holes so that the fuel rail would sit lower to the manifold. now on to the throttle body.
the zc throttle body was a piece of ---- it small and it didnt have the map sensor on it so i used my dx tb. i had to cut off the lower right bolt (becuase of the zc's funky tb) but with three bolts an no need to rewire the harness. i had to fill the idle air control circut up with jb weld because the zc manifold plate where the tb mount doesnt extend down as far as the d15's does. so now i didm't have the iacv but that didn't matter because the old zc iacv was a rat nest of hose. so with uberdata and tweaking the screw on the tb i can get my idle just right.now the throttle cable and bracket was easy it just weld the d15 bracket to the zc manifold. the zc has of set holes where as the d15's are in a line or vice versa, but that the easy part the hard part is the set screw have to be backed all the way down to were the cable comes into the bracket then backed off ever so slightly. this is because the cable has a long stretch to tb. the smallest turn gives you about 200+ rpm. but thats just a little tweaking. all off manifold vacuum lines were just about the same. the zc had 2-3 extra so i just used them for boost gauge, bov and map sensor. or what ever. next the intake air temp was moved from the plenum to the runnerand it was a striaght bolt up. there was extra coolant lines left over from the block to the head so i ran the lines to the turbo.
the exhaust manifold is a very close fit to zc (stock d15) it just sits a little lower
than the zc exhaust. i made a custom turbo manifold for this anyways. the d 15 plug wires wont fit because they are too long but accel makes some good race ones for the zc.
then theres the timing gears i kept the crank timing pulley from the d15 and got rid of the zc cam gears. the zc cam gears are like one or two teeth larger than the d15 cam gears after a about five revolutions the timing is already like twenty degrees off. i just got two edlebrock cam gears for a d15 sohc and they bolted right to the zc camshafts. the timing marks on the gears line up almost perfectly. the reason i say almost is because if you look at the d15 it slants foward a little so tdc in relation to the head is a few degrees retard. if you look at the zc head it almost level . the big difference is only about 2-3 deg. all i do to set base timing is stick an allen wrench in the two oil holes in the zc camshafts and i can get a true tdc.
now as far as the timing belt goes you cant uses the zc one or the d15 one. i have a buddy that works at advance auto parts that lets me go in the back and look for parts. so the belt i found that fits i have no idea what kind of car it came off of. but i do have the part # it's a goodyear gatorback part # 40184 so if you can find it out good luck too you. my buddy says it came off a motorcycle.
then next modifaction i had to do was on the old zc the power steering pump bolts to the head. (i think it was ps dont remeber) this mount has a threaded body that sticks out. the whole body had to be cut in half then quatered so that it would fit over the motor mount bolts on the d15. the front mount on the same side needs to have about 3 5/16" washers between where it bolts to the block so that the timing belt dosen't rub also the timing cover on the block needs to be trimmed so that the belt dosen't rub. i dont know if the head timing cover will fit or not becuase i never had any intention of putting it back on. thats pretty much every thing i can think of.
i you have any questions or find discrepencies just hit me back and i'll answer.
also the timing belt cover might have to be removed or cut so the belt will fit.
here is a diagram of the bolt fitment:
also heres a write up i did for h-t:
first to start you need to get arp head studs for a 95 civic. all of the old bolts wont fit. you need to save the longest head bolt from the zc. that head bolt is the top middle.then you need a head gasket (i used an mls) for a d15. the head gasket needs to be slightly modified. if your looking at the motor from the front, the hole on the top left(far top left). is over to right a little compared to the zc. i used an air grinder to oblong the hole a little. then do you remember that long bolt? it is a 10x1.5mm or something i cant remeber for sure but it is a little bigger than the d15 bolt holes. i just tapped it out so the long bolt (the first one in head torque sequence) will fit.
next get rid of the old distributor and that sensor peice of ---- on the cams. i used a del sol distributor for the si (b16) the distirbutor needs one of the feet cut off so it'll fit i tried setting #1 at all positons but it'll only work in the factory position. although now i dont think it matters since i got msd.
i had to use the zc manifold becuase of the bolt pattern.the fuel rail and injectors from my d15 bolted jsut fine with the exception of 1 hole which i think is similar to crx. if you go to an after market fuel rail and injectors later on you'll have problems. the bolts that come out of the zc manifold dont have the same riser(once again i think it the same as crx) i had to drill an oblong hole once again in my aem fuel rail even though it set up for crx and d15. also the fuel rail it sefl i had to drill 1/2" x 3/8" holes in the original holes so that the fuel rail would sit lower to the manifold. now on to the throttle body.
the zc throttle body was a piece of ---- it small and it didnt have the map sensor on it so i used my dx tb. i had to cut off the lower right bolt (becuase of the zc's funky tb) but with three bolts an no need to rewire the harness. i had to fill the idle air control circut up with jb weld because the zc manifold plate where the tb mount doesnt extend down as far as the d15's does. so now i didm't have the iacv but that didn't matter because the old zc iacv was a rat nest of hose. so with uberdata and tweaking the screw on the tb i can get my idle just right.now the throttle cable and bracket was easy it just weld the d15 bracket to the zc manifold. the zc has of set holes where as the d15's are in a line or vice versa, but that the easy part the hard part is the set screw have to be backed all the way down to were the cable comes into the bracket then backed off ever so slightly. this is because the cable has a long stretch to tb. the smallest turn gives you about 200+ rpm. but thats just a little tweaking. all off manifold vacuum lines were just about the same. the zc had 2-3 extra so i just used them for boost gauge, bov and map sensor. or what ever. next the intake air temp was moved from the plenum to the runnerand it was a striaght bolt up. there was extra coolant lines left over from the block to the head so i ran the lines to the turbo.
the exhaust manifold is a very close fit to zc (stock d15) it just sits a little lower
than the zc exhaust. i made a custom turbo manifold for this anyways. the d 15 plug wires wont fit because they are too long but accel makes some good race ones for the zc.
then theres the timing gears i kept the crank timing pulley from the d15 and got rid of the zc cam gears. the zc cam gears are like one or two teeth larger than the d15 cam gears after a about five revolutions the timing is already like twenty degrees off. i just got two edlebrock cam gears for a d15 sohc and they bolted right to the zc camshafts. the timing marks on the gears line up almost perfectly. the reason i say almost is because if you look at the d15 it slants foward a little so tdc in relation to the head is a few degrees retard. if you look at the zc head it almost level . the big difference is only about 2-3 deg. all i do to set base timing is stick an allen wrench in the two oil holes in the zc camshafts and i can get a true tdc.
now as far as the timing belt goes you cant uses the zc one or the d15 one. i have a buddy that works at advance auto parts that lets me go in the back and look for parts. so the belt i found that fits i have no idea what kind of car it came off of. but i do have the part # it's a goodyear gatorback part # 40184 so if you can find it out good luck too you. my buddy says it came off a motorcycle.
then next modifaction i had to do was on the old zc the power steering pump bolts to the head. (i think it was ps dont remeber) this mount has a threaded body that sticks out. the whole body had to be cut in half then quatered so that it would fit over the motor mount bolts on the d15. the front mount on the same side needs to have about 3 5/16" washers between where it bolts to the block so that the timing belt dosen't rub also the timing cover on the block needs to be trimmed so that the belt dosen't rub. i dont know if the head timing cover will fit or not becuase i never had any intention of putting it back on. thats pretty much every thing i can think of.
i you have any questions or find discrepencies just hit me back and i'll answer.
