vtec setting
10-28-2006, 06:11 AM
#1
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 38
vtec setting
alright i am running a one wire setup to my tach with shift light and i know a lot of you street race lol
i am running a d16y5 vtec e motor in my crx with an si setup now but i was just curious where should i be setting my tach at to get the full effect of the vtec
i have seen a lot of you guys at the street races with your shift lights set around 6000
but it seems like my vtec kicks in on its own just above like 3000 i played with it a lil today on the freeway just to get a feel for it i set it to like 4000 and i could still hear what seemed to be the vtec crack around just a lil above 3000 so anyone got some info on this thanks
i am running a d16y5 vtec e motor in my crx with an si setup now but i was just curious where should i be setting my tach at to get the full effect of the vtec
i have seen a lot of you guys at the street races with your shift lights set around 6000
but it seems like my vtec kicks in on its own just above like 3000 i played with it a lil today on the freeway just to get a feel for it i set it to like 4000 and i could still hear what seemed to be the vtec crack around just a lil above 3000 so anyone got some info on this thanks
10-28-2006, 07:15 AM
#2
3.0 BAR
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,450
Re: vtec setting
what the ---- are you asking you ******
sell your car right now
oh my god how ------- stupid are you
leave vtec at factory settings, it does not kick in at 3k you ********
if it is working right you wont hear it
you dont need a shift light when your racing with a stock dseries, it takes it a good 5 seconds to the redline from 5k, plenty of time for your ****** *** to shift
sell your car right now
oh my god how ------- stupid are you
leave vtec at factory settings, it does not kick in at 3k you ********
if it is working right you wont hear it
you dont need a shift light when your racing with a stock dseries, it takes it a good 5 seconds to the redline from 5k, plenty of time for your ****** *** to shift
10-28-2006, 03:01 PM
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 38
Re: vtec setting
alright for one moron my ecu is not chipped for my vtec at all i am running an obd o setup in my crx with a vtec motor i was playing with the setting yesterday since i just got my mpfi swap done and i am asking where should i set the tach at you wanna be a tool stay the hell out of my post
the simple question was where should i set my tach at for the vtec since my car is not wired up for the vtec what so ever i am running an obd2 motor with an obd0 harness
its a simple question cant handle a simple question stay the ---- out of my post
the simple question was where should i set my tach at for the vtec since my car is not wired up for the vtec what so ever i am running an obd2 motor with an obd0 harness
its a simple question cant handle a simple question stay the ---- out of my post
10-28-2006, 03:23 PM
#4
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: NE-PA
Posts: 4,666
Re: vtec setting
I'm gonna be honest with you...vtec-e's are gay setups. Only 8 valves open under non-vtec operation, then all 16 on "vtec". The motor's meant more for economy than power. Better off with the d16z6 instead, and if you're going to go that far, just convert it to obd1 (not that hard) and run the p28 ecu. Then you can use your shift light for it's original purpose...blinding the ---- out of you at night so that you end up crashing all because you forgot to put the little rubber cover over it 
10-30-2006, 08:36 PM
#5
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 263
Re: vtec setting
Originally Posted by slo_crx1
I'm gonna be honest with you...vtec-e's are gay setups. Only 8 valves open under non-vtec operation, then all 16 on "vtec". The motor's meant more for economy than power. Better off with the d16z6 instead, and if you're going to go that far, just convert it to obd1 (not that hard) and run the p28 ecu. Then you can use your shift light for it's original purpose...blinding the ---- out of you at night so that you end up crashing all because you forgot to put the little rubber cover over it
Here's the deal. The Y5 head is made from the same exact casting as the Y8 head. The difference comes in when you install the rocker shafts.
Also, vtec-e works in this manner(given a stock HX ecu):
Below 3100rpm(depending on throttle position), it runs on 12-valve mode. It shuts down one intake valve per cylinder, and allows the "shut-down" valve to "crack" open about .020" so fuel doesn't puddle. This 12-valve mode induces a very efficient "swirl" in the combustion chamber resulting in better fuel efficiency.
Above 3100rpm, it locks both intake rockers together, and the larger intake lobe is used. This is 16-valve mode. It acts as a normal 16 valve motor, plus, you get the benefit of lower friction from the roller cam followers.
Now that we've cleared that up, the tuning options are great, here. A chipped obd-1 computer with crome will handle anything you'd want to do with it, and really is the only option. These y5/y8 castings don't like timing, and even less when you're turblowed.
Nobody makes an aftermarket cam for this setup, but I've been corresponding with Crower on getting a pretty solid regrind. It should be here at the house later this week.
I should mention this: If you're looking for N/A power with this setup, you'll need to contact web-cams, or another weld-type regrinder for the cam, as the stock cam only has .320" lift at the valve!). I just needed a little more lift/duration, so crower is who I went with. Turbo setup is probably coming soon to my bay. But if you're looking for a nicely more efficient cylinder head, look into it.
-josh-
11-01-2006, 03:28 AM
#7
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 38
Re: vtec setting
i even stated i was noob if you dont like then dont post its a simple tech questions if you dont have a response then dont flame on my post i usually only spend time on here to shop for what i need and for when i need a lil help dont like tough
11-01-2006, 09:25 AM
#9
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Posts: n/a
Re: vtec setting
Originally Posted by AMkrew
vtec-e is "vtec effieciency". This same type of roller rocker(yep!) setup is now used on the new R18 motor now in production by honda. I don't know of any "regular vtec" motors still in production...
Here's the deal. The Y5 head is made from the same exact casting as the Y8 head. The difference comes in when you install the rocker shafts.
Also, vtec-e works in this manner(given a stock HX ecu):
Below 3100rpm(depending on throttle position), it runs on 12-valve mode. It shuts down one intake valve per cylinder, and allows the "shut-down" valve to "crack" open about .020" so fuel doesn't puddle. This 12-valve mode induces a very efficient "swirl" in the combustion chamber resulting in better fuel efficiency.
Above 3100rpm, it locks both intake rockers together, and the larger intake lobe is used. This is 16-valve mode. It acts as a normal 16 valve motor, plus, you get the benefit of lower friction from the roller cam followers.
Now that we've cleared that up, the tuning options are great, here. A chipped obd-1 computer with crome will handle anything you'd want to do with it, and really is the only option. These y5/y8 castings don't like timing, and even less when you're turblowed.
Nobody makes an aftermarket cam for this setup, but I've been corresponding with Crower on getting a pretty solid regrind. It should be here at the house later this week.
I should mention this: If you're looking for N/A power with this setup, you'll need to contact web-cams, or another weld-type regrinder for the cam, as the stock cam only has .320" lift at the valve!). I just needed a little more lift/duration, so crower is who I went with. Turbo setup is probably coming soon to my bay. But if you're looking for a nicely more efficient cylinder head, look into it.
-josh-
Here's the deal. The Y5 head is made from the same exact casting as the Y8 head. The difference comes in when you install the rocker shafts.
Also, vtec-e works in this manner(given a stock HX ecu):
Below 3100rpm(depending on throttle position), it runs on 12-valve mode. It shuts down one intake valve per cylinder, and allows the "shut-down" valve to "crack" open about .020" so fuel doesn't puddle. This 12-valve mode induces a very efficient "swirl" in the combustion chamber resulting in better fuel efficiency.
Above 3100rpm, it locks both intake rockers together, and the larger intake lobe is used. This is 16-valve mode. It acts as a normal 16 valve motor, plus, you get the benefit of lower friction from the roller cam followers.
Now that we've cleared that up, the tuning options are great, here. A chipped obd-1 computer with crome will handle anything you'd want to do with it, and really is the only option. These y5/y8 castings don't like timing, and even less when you're turblowed.
Nobody makes an aftermarket cam for this setup, but I've been corresponding with Crower on getting a pretty solid regrind. It should be here at the house later this week.
I should mention this: If you're looking for N/A power with this setup, you'll need to contact web-cams, or another weld-type regrinder for the cam, as the stock cam only has .320" lift at the valve!). I just needed a little more lift/duration, so crower is who I went with. Turbo setup is probably coming soon to my bay. But if you're looking for a nicely more efficient cylinder head, look into it.
-josh-
And to the original poster, leave your vtec at factory setting. I have a Y5 head and I even lowered it a little bit.
Here's a secret, Y5 heads love boost
11-01-2006, 07:32 PM
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 263
Re: vtec setting
Originally Posted by jagojon3
Thank you!
And to the original poster, leave your vtec at factory setting. I have a Y5 head and I even lowered it a little bit.
Here's a secret, Y5 heads love boost
And to the original poster, leave your vtec at factory setting. I have a Y5 head and I even lowered it a little bit.
Here's a secret, Y5 heads love boost
I'm actually going to raise my vtec-e from 3000 to about 4000. This, because travelling out of town at speeds of about 70-80mph gets me over the 3000 mark.
BTW, being a noob doesn't really depend on post count... I hope, lol.
-josh-
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