Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

B16 mike... I had a feeling that it may be like the Thermostat ground but it's tight unless it's loose in the harness. Cause my car was turbo my battery is in my trunk so I made my own Home made ground kit out of amp wires like alot of poeple do I added like 6 grounds to the motor all over and made the excisting grounds out of heavier gage wire where possible like the trans ground and valve cover/timing belt ground. So if there's a problem it's in the main harness. I'll have to check that tomorrow too cause I know bad grounds will cause some funky problems. One thing was when I had my ZC I went threw dizzies like crazy... in a two year period of having my Zc I went threw 7 dizzies. But when they went bad they went to the pojnt where the car wouldn't start in the morning or while driving the car would shut off. i haven't had any kid of those problems with my B16 dizzy and I tried relacing the major ignition parts that I could.

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

i have a zc in my 5g hatch and it has the same problem. the low throttle gives jerky power and stinks like gas. mine seems to smooth out at 3500 but the power doesn't kick in until 5000 which seems high to me. the distributor has been converted to obd1 and i haven't found a problem with that. the only thing i can think is it is the ecu. i've tried messing with several ecu's with no real success, just a little better.

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

I'm going to ramble here and just ignore things that you have done before:

if the tps readings aren't full on, check the wires or the tps itself.
make sure the throttle cable is not too tight or too loose.
if it's just an afc, and your vtec crossover is unchanged from 5200rpm, try playing with the fuel.
if it is a vafc, try to get a hold of a pr4 and use the vafc to switch the vtec over.

similar thing happens with my friend's '00 civic and his b20z. uses his d series computer, and the car is super jerky and won't drive properly unless he's over 50% throttle. throw in the si(r) computer, and it runs right but actually drives properly.

the year of the b16 shouldn't matter for timing and fuel should it? check the cam timing? valves lash is in spec? check your iacv, maybe it's starving for air.

thats all I can think of. most if it is probably useless, but hey, i tried.

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

Take this for what it is worth, maybe it was already mentioned, I would check your cam, distributor timing. To me it sounds like your car runs fine when the ecu starts to advance the timing, but like crap when it is idleing or at low rpms? This could be directly related to your cam timing. I addressed this problem for a friend just the other day, and everybody was sceptical to my approach, but in the end, it was cam timing that was making the car feel like it was falling on its face until about 4k, but that was a single cam, and a differnt ecu program!

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

You said your timing is at 17 btdc? That's too much, 8 btdc is normal and advanced it is supposed to be around 10-12 btdc.

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

all of these ideas are very good... but to throw my 2 cents in you should check your tachometer if it's going bad and starting to ground itself out it will definately play hell with your ignition system

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

O.k. just to update... I'm trying like hell to find another OBDO B16 ECU but no luck I'be found some on E-bay but they all are chipped and have no rev. limiters and I'd like the ECU to be stock andnot chipped. One problem came up my original dizzy's bearings locked up and threw my timing belt way off. Thanks to god I didn't bend any valves. Re-set mny timing belt and had to buy a brand new dizzy from the internet which was not cheap. Here's something I was thinking that has to do with the cams. I was thiking if my valves really needed to be adjusted would it cause this problem ? Reason it just recent I help my friend put his B16 in his EG well I had to assemble the head ( I was given a bare head just the valves and springs were installed ) well after myself and few other people helped put it in he insisted on starting the motor before we moved on .

He tried to start it and the motor won't start. I then told him and everyone else that the valves needed to be adjusted and thats why the motor won;t start. Everyone called me out and said BS. Well after laughing at them for about 20 minutes I then stepped in and adjusted the valves. Bam motor started right up. So I was just thinking if maybe I need a valve adjustment and that they so off that it's messing up but you only feel it low throttle since not much air is coming in. just an idea let me know what you think. I no figure that it's not a part problem b ut either valve adjustment or wiring. I've replaced everything on the motor .... The IACV , AIT (air intake temp. ) , Dizzy , injectors , plugs , wires. The only part that hasn't beeen replaced is my fuel pump but I checked my fuel pressure and it's fine. So let me know I'm open to anything cause I'm fresh out of ideas the only thing I haven't checked so far is the valves to see if they need adjustment. Also thanks to EVERYONE for your input I really appreciate since everyone I talk to always takes the easy way out saying " OH.. you have a 91' Dx well it has to do with the DPFI to MPFI conversion " which is BS cause I've done many DPFI to MPFI conversions and never had a problem. Thanks again

Re:Someone's gotta be able to help me.
 

If I were you I would check the resistance on your plug wires. if you don't have an ohmmeter, just try putting your stock ones back on, or get some oem's and try that. the problem you are having sounds like when my accel wires took a ---- on me...........