Have any of you guys tried to brace the engine using cables or straps ?

The Buick grand national guys use a strap from there altinator to the frame to help stop the engine from moving too much.

The cool thing about this is that if/when your going to the track or racing, you can tighten the strap/cable down, but after you can loosen it up some for daily driving.

Just wondering if anyone else here thought of that. I filled my side mounts with poly, but I got a lot of rattles now, so I really don't wanna do the front and rear one now...

My car popped outta 1st gear twice at the track, it sucked pretty bad...

 

im using a few welded in mounts for my accord... they work good but rattle the car pretty good. I also filled in my previously broken mounts with 3m window weld and that fixes them but i wanted stiffer ones.

 

i have seen that on b and k series engines that they use in road racing but never on d series but hell why not...We put turbos on d-series n/a engines, we can do anything..

 

If 3m window weld isn't stiff enough, McMaster-Carr sells diy urethane kits in various durometers. Search for "urethane casting compounds".

I filled the stock d series mounts in my race car with 94a and drilled several small holes because I thought 94a might be a bit too stiff. The result was an engine that doesn't move and the vibes weren't too bad either. The vibration was no worse than my street car with hasport b series mounts and a stock b16a1.

 

what an interesting idea!

after reading the post urethane ad a engine brace of some design could be iteresting indead. like using the chains or cables to keep the engine in place.

i was thinking about steel angleiron cut in small sections and threaded rod with washers ad nuts.

making a cross brace from the engine side mouter mount run across to lower core support.
( i thinkthe AC will be in the way if you still have it)
possibly a mount spot on the trasmission housing near the egnine code plate is.

i'll take some measure ments...see whati can come upwith in AutoCad. and on paper..


falkhen

 

I used a "turn buckle" and two cables. One cable looped around the front cross member and the other looped around the driver side motor mount bracket.

The ideal looks to wrok great, but the "thingys" that hold the cable together isn't strong enough to stay tight. May have to be spot welded or something. I comes loose after the first hit. I really cranked down on these things too. I'll try and remember to take a few pics tomorrow while I'm trying to get my wastegate right without destroying it like the last one...

 

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/max...bum?.dir=/fd1a

Check out the last 7 pics. In the "04-05-23" album.
The 2nd and 3rd from the last pics are the 2 I took of my "engine bracing cable".

I took the car out for a quick test ( replaced wastegate ) to see if eveything was "ok". It ran 5psi and spooled great, so I took the vacc. to the WG off and it shot to 10psi, then I let off WHOO HOOO !!! Anyway, the cable hadn't streched... maybe the first two times it "strecthed" was just the cable sliding around a little on the cross-member...

Noless, now... its 5psi until the MBC get here !!! I used to try and adjust boost from the WG, but ---- that, its hard at the track when the car just ran !!!

 

Jesus, I've seen people do that to the suspension on our cars for drag racing, strapping the front end down, but never the engine. Wow, guess I've never had problems with engine movement. Did ya read my urathane/window weld write up in the tech projects off the main page? That works really well and is pretty cheap.

 

Well, I didn't read the urithane filling thread on here, but I knew DSM guys have been doing it for a long time. The problem I have is that I filled the 2 side motorm mounts and the car picked up a lot of shakes, rattles, and rolls ( ok maybe not rolls ). I didn't wannna fill in the other two motor ( front and back ones ) and increase the shaking problem more.

The turn buckle can be turned by hand in seconds to tighten or loosen.

 

I'm just wondering if you realized that the front and back mounts are the ones that really get torque applied to them.. it would've been more beneficial to fill those two instead..